Sump gasket relacement....how easy/difficult?

[Dom]

HI,

I have a bad leak which has sprung from the sump gasket.

I have the manual and I'm not too bad mechanically but not an expert (have managed diff replacement, prop replacement, new rad, carbs and inlet gaskets in the last 10 months, only ever changed plugs prior to Stag ownership!!).

Just wondering what the thoughts were on how easy/difficult this job is? Never attempted anything quite as big as this, the manual makes it look pretty straight forward. Is it that simple or is it one of those buggers of a job?

Wards have quoted around £340+vat plus parts plus polybush the bits that come off (guess total around £5-700) as around 8 hours in total. Looks like I can save quite a few Pounds if I do it myself.

Any thoughts for a novice?

Dom

[jleyton]

Hi Dom,

Bearing in mind the jobs you've done I am sure you can manage the sump gasket and it will increase your knowledge base

You'll need to drop the cross member and a couple of those bolts can be a bit tricky but, that apart, it's fairly straightforward and the ROM details it pretty well IIRC.

Besides, if you get stuck, just come on here and we'll help you out

Cheers

Julian

[Al_Stag]

Hi Dom, Having just come to the end of this myself (albeit with a gammy arm following a tendonesis operation) I can categorically state it's straight forward but not easy. The removing is, the putting back together isn't. It's definitely a two or three person job when trying to support and raise the cross member whilst simultaneously pushing the steering rack forward and stopping the drop-down bolts/screws from disappearing again. Not to mention the overwhelming urge to paint everything in sight ;-)

It's do-able but not particularly quick or pleasant, assuming you're not on a car lift or pit.

The bits to polybush are the ARB, The cotton reels on the steering rack (where it bolts on to the crossmember) and potentially the pivot bushes.

If changing the cotton-reel bushes in the rack, good luck - need at least M10 threaded bar, two 1/2" sockets (to take the M10 thread into account), two or three M10 nuts and washers and a pair of good strong spanners.

Do-able: yes,
Enjoyable: no
Satisfying: yes.

Cheers.

A.

[jleyton]

Hi Al,

I managed mine alone and, I must say, didn't fiind it particularly difficult.

I do agree with you about the urge to paint everything - I got mine powder coated

Cheers

Julian

[Dan stag]

I'd be inclined to agree with Al.Stag above although its an easy job once everything is out the way. I did mine this winter but I had everything else off refurbing the entire front end, cross member, suspension, steering rack all off and rebushed and repainted. It was an hours work after all this prep work. And as Julian says the urge to strip and paint everything as you go is overwhelming. Looks great now though .

[Al_Stag]

Hi Julian. It's not difficult, just awkward (especially with one and a half arms ;-) )... The biggest headache was re-attaching the steering rack and lining the "bushes" up with the two-part right-angle bracket (don't drop this off if you can avoid it!), not to mention the leverage to get the wishbone back over the pivot arms. How did you manage the steering rack and locating the member at the same time? Suitably impressed.

Granted, I could do it much quicker next time (tied to only weekend work) and, making excuses again, a working shoulder and arm. *grin*

Cheers,
A.

[Dom]

Thanks chaps,
I'm persuaded, I'll order online and dive in head first.
Hmmmm...hadn't thought of painting as I go, I'll have a look for some paint!
Dom

[PaterB]

Do-able: yes,
Enjoyable: no
Satisfying: yes.

A.

Could we please include this rating in every repair job description? It would make planning saturday afternoons a lot easier :-)

[Al_Stag]

[stag8manod]

Hi Dom, When I took my cross member off I tack welded t he heads of the bolts to the packers/spacers sitting on the flanges of the inner guard, so much easier to reinstall. Also on the l/hand rear corner of the sump is a sump bolt that passes through a large hole in the block with a washer on top and obscured by the starter motor. After I got it out I tapped the hole in the block 5/8 UNF and cemented in a piece of 5/8 thread 5/8s long with 2 pot steel epoxy, when cured, drilled and tapped it to match the rest. Solving what I see as two design faults. I realise the hole in the block was there to facilitate factory jigging and machining. Cheers Ian A

[Stagsongas]

1

Could we please include this rating in every repair job description? It would make planning saturday afternoons a lot easier :-)

Saturday afternoon won't get much done on a Stag

I do like the rating though!

Regards

Steve

[SaskStag]

I've got 2 sump bolts that just won't go in. One by the side, where I just can't get my spindly small fingers in (steering components), and one between gearbox and sump which appears to have changed its thread to some obscure different type overnight, and nothing holds in there, although it 'looks' good. I guess I'll find out if that's going to be a problem come start-up time...hopefully soon
Tanya

[stag8manod]

Hi Tanya, My best suggestion is to obtain a 5/16 UNF thread tap and use to it retap the threaded holes. Just be careful that it starts squarely and evenly. In regard to refitting the bolts, use a 7/16 socket and extension ( 1/4 sq drive prefably) and using a small piece of Blue-tac, set the bolt in the socket and offer it up squarely to the hole. If the threaded hole is stripped you may have to Heli-coil it. Good-luck, you are doing extremely well. Cheers Ian A

[milothedog]

I've got 2 sump bolts that just won't go in. One by the side, where I just can't get my spindly small fingers in (steering components), and one between gearbox and sump which appears to have changed its thread to some obscure different type overnight, and nothing holds in there, although it 'looks' good. I guess I'll find out if that's going to be a problem come start-up time...hopefully soon
Tanya

If the rear one is one of the two in the middle then you have another problem as they are in the aluminium rear main oil seal housing. Which if you cant recoil it in situ (very difficult but can be done) then you will be taking the Gearbox out

Ian

[KOY 23]

If the rear one is one of the two in the middle then you have another problem as they are in the aluminium rear main oil seal housing. Which if you cant recoil it in situ (very difficult but can be done) then you will be taking the Gearbox out

Ian

Tanya, time to get your Helicoil kit out.