My restoration is really moving on now and I am in the process of fitting the outer panels. Originally my car had quite large gaps on the sides, I have refitted the bonnet and replacement wings are clamped in place and find that the gap either side is between 7 and 8 mm. I find this excessive and in earlier restorations have aimed for 5mm max. The boot lid has a more acceptable 5mm on either side. I may be able to close the bonnet side by a mm or so when I actually attach the front wings but this still seems t be an excessive, I would appreciate any comments whether this is an acceptable gap on a stag and what the original gap from the factory was like. I do not see how I can reduce it without major work to front wings, or I may take the easy way out and increase the width of the bonnet by welding a strip to the side flanges. See attached pictures.lr20130817_4324.jpglr20130817_4325.jpg
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7 /8 mm is a bit wide, looking at the pictures of the front of the car the gap between the front top of the wing and the front top panel is very large these too panels should be touching but in the picture there seems to be quite a gap are the wings catching somewhere and stopping them from pulling in?
JohnMK 2 1977 FLAMENCO RED ,WEBER ,BELT DRIVEN WATER PUMP.
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If you cant get the panels to pull closer lead load a strip on the edge of the bonnet either side. Clamp a strip of alloy along the edge sticking out as far as you need (lead won't stick to it) and use that to support the lead whilst molten and when the lead has gone off (couple of minutes). If you wipe the lead onto the flat inner and face of the panel it will stick like **** to a blanket and when refinished be invisible and very strong, (will stand being beaten with a hammer without parting).
MickyLast edited by Motorsport Micky; 20 August 2013, 21:50.
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Many moons ago when restoring a stag I had this problem, having rebuilt the front end I was told by the panel supplier that the problem lay with the top front panel,being a reproduction and pressed out larger than the original due to ware on the tooling.However this information was only given after full paint job,see your not that far on yet could there still be time to tweek it. good luck Paul.
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Mine had this same problem.
In addition, my bonnet lines had never lined up perfectly with the lines on the front panel before they curve, I found if I lined them up, the gap on one side was now fine, but with a huge gap on the other side, so I had some square steel bar that I had welded to that side, looks like this now. Will be even better when I refit the bonnet and line it up better.
Picture 134.jpg
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Hi Mike I have just noticed this thread , I had the same problem , i used the clamp shown in my thread it was really usefull. I had to also lower the top of one inner wing to get the wing to sit down furthur too. I kept my exising front panel as it was excellent but i still had trouble in this area and had to jack from under seeing as the valance was only trial fitted. It took me god knows how many hours wheres as a MG would prob take a couple of hours.
Edd
http://www.stag.org.uk/forum/showthr...Project/page33
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Mike,
Each case is different, sometimes it helps to work from the top down. If your inner wings really are clean and not too high, it often helps to drill three holes in the wing gutter, front, center and rear. Check that the bonnet is truly central and then line the bonnet gaps up by moving the wing (and the front and rear of course) to your liking. Now use the temporary fixings of your choice on the gutter to inner wing rail joint. I normally braze these holes up to produce a kind of spot weld, but pop rivets etc. can be used and are easy to remove, the holes being welded up later.
Temporary fixings like this can get you to the stage where you can shut the bonnet without any clamps in the way, and if you are happy with the gaps you can then see if it is possible to smooth the sides and bottom of the wing into the correct position. Even factory panels take a little stretching now and then, especially on an older shell, and sometimes it helps to begin by setting up the most crucial gaps first.
Good Luck
SteveTV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.
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Originally posted by edd View PostI have just noticed this member has started three threads then had lots of detailed answers and has never replied to any of them , c,mon miket a simple cheers is always nice. Lets not take peoples time for granted.
Edd
I wonder if Mike is getting paid by Classics Monthly for his contribution ?
Cheers
Julian
Ps I think it's four threads, without a thankyou.
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Originally posted by jleyton View PostHEAR, HEAR, well said Edd. This is what started my 'ungrateful' thread a while ago.
I wonder if Mike is getting paid by Classics Monthly for his contribution ?
Cheers
Julian
Edd
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Hi Guys
Sorry had problems with internet coverage, this is first time I have been able to read replies and thanks. I am not very good on any modern equipment including any form of electronic media and originally posted in wrong place and Brian obviously moved. I am not sure whether you have read the magazine but I have thanked this forum and the club for its help on more than one occasion, and stressed how helpful it has been. I also had some email discussions with some of the other members so apologise if I did not publically thank people on line, I have been grateful for advice I have received from club. I have taken note of all comments and will have a look when I start back on car tomorrow, and will let you know how I go.
Thanks Mike
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Thanks for kind words Edd. I have changed my plans, and decided to complete both rear wings and doors before working on all of the front panels in one go. Therefore bonnet gaps are on hold for a few weeks as we are shortly off on holiday for a couple of weeks. Will get probably start front later next month and report in magazine part 15 including comments from this forum.
Mike
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