Still cutting out

[grumpy2]

Harumph!

3 times today, I think I know what it isn't but I still can't find what it is!

Symptom: instant engine failure, tachometer drops to zero. No warning, no loss of power, no hesitation, no misfiring.

Corrective action: sometimes restarts before the car comes to a stop (1-5 seconds) with no action, almost always restarts on the key straight away if stopped (20-30 seconds), has never failed to restart. Longest has been about 20mins. Will usually restart without any type of repair or fiddling. when it does take some fiddling there is no particular fiddle that makes it restart

Tried so far: 3 different coils, remaking all connections to lumintion and dissy, new plugs, leads and ignition switch wiring changed. Test light on coil positive and every wire possible jiggled and pulled.

Before I lash out £150 on a new lumintion has anyone got any other things I could try, nothing I do can replicate the fault or cure it!

Gary

Gary

[wilf]

Ignition switch itself.

[grumpy2]

Got one to try but tugging and pulling all the wires has no effect

Gary

[Stagsongas]

Gary,

Wilf has a good point. I think I'd hotwire to the coil (you'll have to watch out for the lack of ballast though) which would rule out everso many things. If the engine still cuts we'll need to think again, but with 12V sent direct from the battery, if the engine does not cut, you'll know the fault lies between here and there.

Usual disclaimers about nasty sparky wires - connect to battery last.

Good Luck

Steve

[grumpy2]

Ahh, forgot that one, did hot wire the coil and it cut out again but only once and I'm not 100% the connection was great. Direct 12v for about 15 miles so the coild should be ok. Tends to cut out about 5 mile intervals but not regularly, no real pattern. Thinking of getting a ballast resister and putting in a semi permanent Hotwire

[wilf]

Worth it, if only to eliminate the switch as the culprit.

[flying farmer]

I had a dolomite once with a similar problem, turned out to be the ballast wire within the loom, only found it by putting in a seperate switch operated circuit which was turned on when the engine died.

I have also had a failing Lumenition module which did the same thing, but was fortunate enough to have another car I could borrow the power module from, wired that in except for the 3 pin plug. When it died in the middle of Wrexham roadworks (it could have chosen a more convenient place)! I was able to swap the 3 pin plug to diagnose the fault.

Neil

[davidf]

With the engine ticking over, just try moving anything to do with the ignition circuit - see if you can make it cut out.

[Phil]

When I had similar symptoms it turned out to be the fuel pump

phil

[grumpy2]

With the engine ticking over, just try moving anything to do with the ignition circuit - see if you can make it cut out.

Done that, pulled, pushed and wiggled everything and I can't replicate the fault

[grumpy2]

When I had similar symptoms it turned out to be the fuel pump

phil

But did you get an instant cut out, zero tachometer revs even though the engine is still turning and instant restart with perfect running? Every fuel issue I've had has a gradual loss of power ( perhaps over 10 seconds), tachometer revs drop slowly and a hesitant splutters restart

I'm 99% sure it's electrical but how could I check the pump other than a flow test?

Cheers Gary

[Phil]

It was a couple of years ago and the memory plays tricks. It was at its worst on a trip to Paris engine would just stop roll onto hard shoulder initially it was fiddle with carbs and it would restart then the plunger on the inhibitor (?) switch then eventually thump the fuel pump two new pumps later its been fine

[Bob Heritage]

I think I would back the ignition switch theory, remove the covers and check the terminals, then change the switch if necessary.

Bob

[Monstag265]

Had the same symptoms several years ago on a yellow mark 2 stag and that was due to the module on the electronic ignition failing.
If you still have all the original points setup in a drawer somewhere then you could revert back to that or alternatively borrow a module just to check yours

Good luck

Jon

[grumpy2]

Plan for today,,,

Change the ignition switch, double check the + and - wiring to the coil, look for a ballast resister amongst the years of accumulated car junk in my garage!, and if I find one make up a ballasted hot wire system

Ps can't remove the lumintion as I don't have points etc to replace it so only way I can eliminate that is buying replacement parts. I'm fairly sure the fault is in the lumintion but £150 is a lot to waste if it's just a dodgy connection somewhere else

Gary