Overdrive in out in out shake it all about

[Mike Stevens]

Another way to check the gearlever cable is to try and 'stretch' each wire. If the inner copper conductors have broken, the plastic will stretch. If they're not broken, it won't.

Continuity is obviously the best way, but when you can't find the DMM, this certainly works.

Where is the inhibit switch in the circuit, before or after the gearlever?

The best way of sorting this sort of thing is to go through the wiring with a DVM and finding out where the volts don't get to.

Cheers,
Mike.

[DJT]

Where is the inhibit switch in the circuit, before or after the gearlever?.

According to the wiring diagram it's after.

Fuse => Gearlever Switch => Inhibitor Switch => Solenoid => Earth.

[davidf]

"As i said every electrical problem so far has been a corroded bullet connector or a loose spade connector"

Symptom of a car left unused, or stored in damp conditions. I used to get problems in critical circuits in my first Stag, for example, ignition. Eventually, started a proper program of going round all the connectors, open them up, clean them, make sure the wire is tight in the connector, squeeze the socket side tighter, and re-assemble.

Up till then, every time I took the car out, I was always expecting some random electrical problem. After the work, everything worked every time. Complete transformation.

[Mike Stevens]

According to the wiring diagram it's after.

Fuse => Gearlever Switch => Inhibitor Switch => Solenoid => Earth.

Thanks. Don't have that info here at work!

Cheers,
Mike.

[JimB]

Many thanks, to the helpful members who replied, for their input and advice.

As suggested there was a break in the cable between the bottom of the gear stick and the O/D switch.

Next job will have to be the problem I have with an intermitting fault with one of my headlights.

There’s never a dull moment with 40 year old cars