Inlet manifold -AGAIN :O

[SaskStag]

Fingers are crossed for you!
Tanya

[big e]

I may be celebrating too soon but the beastie is back together again and on top of the V is still dry. I've run it up to temperature, let the fan cut in a few times and so far all is good in my world. I'll give it a bit of a run later and hopefully happy days will be here again

[big e]

Not impressed. I took the beastie for a short run. Apart from almost being rear ended while I was out, but when I got back and checked, I spotted a small green wet patch on top of the V under the manifold by the rear two cylinders on the left bank.. Hopefully a little tweak of those bolts will suffice. I bloody hate cars at times. Oh well another day tomorrow as they say

[wilf]

Fingers crossed for you.

I have stopped worrying about random bouts of incontinence from mine. Sometimes it is bone dry for months, then it wets the V for no reason, then is fine again. I have decided to let it have its way, overall the water loss is tiny.

[jleyton]

Fingers crossed for you.

I have stopped worrying about random bouts of incontinence from mine. Sometimes it is bone dry for months, then it wets the V for no reason, then is fine again. I have decided to let it have its way, overall the water loss is tiny.

Me too

Cheers

Julian

[confrench]

The reasoning behind the lossening of c/head is to allow some compliance between the geometrically angled fa.ces of the inlet manifold & the two c/heads.The joint is further strengthened,by the angled C/head studs.When rebuilding,the manifold is bolted & torqued to the c/head first then the head is tightened,with the angled studs pulling the head towards the V.This method of fixing is strong and allows for the expansion & contraction to take place without compromising the i/manifold joint.With regards to experience gained at being employed by BL, they themselves advocated the removal of the anti-freeze inhibitor when the summer months came thereby leading to the head corrosion damage,through electrolosis.They were inexperienced when it came to dealing with dissimilar metals,such as cast iron & aluminum.

[DJT]

The reasoning behind the lossening of c/head is to allow some compliance between the geometrically angled fa.ces of the inlet manifold & the two c/heads.The joint is further strengthened,by the angled C/head studs.When rebuilding,the manifold is bolted & torqued to the c/head first then the head is tightened,with the angled studs pulling the head towards the V.This method of fixing is strong and allows for the expansion & contraction to take place without compromising the i/manifold joint.With regards to experience gained at being employed by BL, they themselves advocated the removal of the anti-freeze inhibitor when the summer months came thereby leading to the head corrosion damage,through electrolosis.They were inexperienced when it came to dealing with dissimilar metals,such as cast iron & aluminum.

I don't think anyone would disagree about the method of attaching the inlet manifold when building an engine or if one or more heads have been removed. But to slacken a head to replace an inlet manifold on the engine from which it was removed to, for example, repair a water pump is just asking for trouble. Slackening a head without removing it and replacing the head gasket is a recipe for disaster. As many people have found over the years, removing a head isn't always a straightforward matter. So why go down that route if it isn't necessary

[big e]

I have decided to follow the let it develop technique and keep a regular check on it, after all the tax run runs out at the end of september and I've spent more than enough time not driving it. I've got 6 months of autumn/ winter to pull it apart again and stock up with parts. In the mean time I have an mot to secure and a heater matrix to replace on my recently restored granada 4x4 . Oh the joy of old cars
Ian

[jleyton]

I agree with Dave.

Although I can appreciate the logic, there is absolutely no way I would ever contemplate removing heads whenever I have cause to remove and refit an inlet manifold.

In fact, if you consult the original Triumph 'Repair operation times' you will see that the 'book' time for removing and refitting a water pump is 2.15 hours. As the 'book' time for removing and refitting both heads is 5.30 hours, I don't think even Triumph themselves expected mechanics to "remove the r/h head fit the gaskets to the inlet manifold,bolt it to th l/h head then replace l/h head with new head gasket"

Cheers

Julian

[wilf]

Trust me. Unless I absolutely have to, no spanner or socket of mine is going anywhere near those head bolts!

[big e]

Yippee. The beastie went for a bit of a run this afternoon ( nothing strenuous - only about 10 - 15 minutes ) , when I got back and checked in the V, it was dry. Coolant free. No signs of incontinence. Happy days are here again. :-D:-D:-D:-D:-D

[wilf]

Well done and enjoy.