Crack Across Rear Shock Mount - Is this big trouble?

[Stagless Steve]

Looked at another Stag last night. All checked out fine apart from a crack in the metal work on the top of the nearside rear shock absorber mount. It spanned about ½ inch either side of the bolt hole. The turret did not appear to be rusty, apart from the edge of the crack, so maybe it is a metal fatigue crack. I couldn’t see anything from the underside because of the under seal that covered most of the underside of the car. It would obviously need welding but is this a difficult or costly problem to resolve?
Ta. Steve

[iani]

welded two thick steel washers around mine when I found the same problem earlier this year, so far, so good. I cleaned the area all around to get sound metal to weld to and luckily there was little corrosion so I think it was stress more than rot.

[V Mad]

Just a fatigue crack, easily repaired, but could be useful as a negotiation aid.

[Stagless Steve]

Thanks guys. That's reassuring to hear.

[pcoleman]

mines got one on the offside the nearside having been repaired by the p.o.

[robbo]

Both mine have cracks and doesn't seem to cause any problems. I will get them welded before the next mot.
Cheers Rob

[StagnJag]

I seem to recall from somewhere (goodness knows where) that to stop a crack propagating you should drill a hole at the end of the crack, before welding it up.

Seems to make sense to me anyway!

regards

Dave

[keeny]

yes Dave you are correct about drilling a hole at the end of the crack to stop it propagating ,good advice
Phil

[StagnJag]

Yea!

[stagmuffin]

I seem to recall from somewhere (goodness knows where) that to stop a crack propagating you should drill a hole at the end of the crack, before welding it up.

Seems to make sense to me anyway!

regards

Dave

Dave this is completely unnecessary in mild steel and just makes more work . if you are repairing cast iron however it is very much required or you will continually chase the crack . excuse the expression.
if the area is cleaned properly back to bright metal on both sides then open up the crack slightly with a thin disc or whatever then place /wedge some copper tube flattened behind under the weld area make sure its pushed up tight then weld away this will allow you run hotter and give you a 100% but weld this is unlikely to break there again don't forget to remove the copper then use a zinc rich paint to protect before your topcoat.
steve

[StagnJag]

Thanks Steve,

Learning to weld is on my 'to-do' list when I have a garage to work in - which, touch wood should be within the next six weeks all being well!

Cheers

Dave

[keeny]

Your never to old to learn,sorry Dave,thanks Steve
Phil