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have got to make some repairs to my brothers car, top of the rear shock absorber and rear seat belt mounting ,what thread size is the bolts for the seat belts
Down by the bottom of the wheel arch as per the instructions. They work well like that, just need to remember to pull them out from the bottom! Had to drill a hole 2 inches down from the shock top mount for the the top mounts. Really pleased with them.
Down by the bottom of the wheel arch as per the instructions. They work well like that, just need to remember to pull them out from the bottom! Had to drill a hole 2 inches down from the shock top mount for the the top mounts. Really pleased with them.
Mark
when ive made the repairs to the inner wheel arch, i was going to fit the belts the other way round, so they would pull from the top, ive ordered new nuts in case i cant save the original one
Not sure how well that would work with the top stowed or how well they would feed between the seat back and the top stowage cover? Might be ok but check it first. Good luck
Having just fitted new three point, retractable seat belts, to my 73 Stag,found that the very best place to put the reel is in the original hole on the wheel arch,but drilled out to accept a 1 inch 3/8 bolt.Attach the S bracket provided,having bent back the end, to match that of the wheel arch curve and leaves the other end at 90 degrees to the floor.Bolt the reel to the other end of the S bracket DOWN from that hole.Turn the big arrow on the reel to point horizontally inwards,the other smaller arrow pointing up.Feed the belt thru the side panel slot, put there by Triumph,it will retract very easily.Now the bigger job is to jack up the car, and to lower the rear shock to the side, to allow another 3/8 hole to be drilled 3 inches below the hole above,in the center of the curve in the shock tower.Feed a 11/4 inch 3/8th bolt and fit a lock nut,tighten,then the step down washer,flexy washer, belt end and finally a Nylok nut. REMEMBER to pass the end of the belt over the rear seat rail before bolting it all up!!. I had my wife seat in position, with seat belt on and marked with chalk the two points either side, where the belt crosses,then attach a 4 inch plate bolted on at each end thru the rear rail,with enough clearance for the belt to slide thru.
Works well and the top goes down with no interference at all.
Do not make the error I did, and forget to put the floor jack under the trailing arm,as you will find that when you undo the nuts on the top of the shock,gravity does work!!
I had first looked at mounting the reel on the bottom of the wheel arch, but then the belt came up and had to turn 90 to go thru the side slot,mounting it in the original hole and setting the reel to work horizontally is 200% better,and easier for the passengers to buckle up. In my case mostly young GKs, who by law,here in Canada, have to ride in car seats until 7 yrs old.
thought i would let you see how i have been repairing the inner arch, both my new tools were set to work today,dremal type tool was good for cutting the metal, but the cutting disc i bought were not so good keep braking them
i was surprised how the top shock absorber was constructed
thought i would let you see how i have been repairing the inner arch, both my new tools were set to work today,dremal type tool was good for cutting the metal, but the cutting disc i bought were not so good keep braking them
i was surprised how the top shock absorber was constructed
dave
hi Dave the areas you pictured were nasty but you seem to have dressed them out well , please don't be offended but the welding I can see on the outer finishing plate you have fitted looks very poor and I would suggest that you have not got the necessary penetration and continuity of weld to reinstate that area to a good strong standard that it needs. my advice would be to grind back all the tacks you've made and using a tig plant rerun the root all round this area again to reinforce the panel .because of the lower deposition you will have less cleaning . this is an area prone to high stress and any weakness in the welded area will soon be found again and could have a nasty resurgence when driving.
best of luck
steve
Beautiful early mk1 white tv8 mod? MGB GT and now looking for another V8
hi Dave the areas you pictured were nasty but you seem to have dressed them out well , please don't be offended but the welding I can see on the outer finishing plate you have fitted looks very poor and I would suggest that you have not got the necessary penetration and continuity of weld to reinstate that area to a good strong standard that it needs. my advice would be to grind back all the tacks you've made and using a tig plant rerun the root all round this area again to reinforce the panel .because of the lower deposition you will have less cleaning . this is an area prone to high stress and any weakness in the welded area will soon be found again and could have a nasty resurgence when driving.
best of luck
steve
steve
thanks for the tip, hopefully ill have the tig back next week
Hi Dave,
From the pictures that you have shown,you need to fix the attachment points first before,even considering putting new seat belts in,as one sudden sharp stop and me thinks the attachments will not hold!! If it was my car I would cut out the wheel arch area around the attachment hole and weld a new plate in,same at the rear shock tower,a new piece welded in to make the shock attachment that much more secure.
Notice that the British cars have a different attachment area on the wheel arch as here in NA mine is 71/2 inches above the rear floor,whereas yours only seems to be some 3 or 4 inches up from the floor.??
Fixing the attachment areas first will make sure that rear seat passengers are more than held in snugly.My wife and I were hit by a tractor trailer [lorry] at 70 mph whilst in our TR3A, and spun X3,so great believer in safe seat belts,which I had added some years before.
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