I have a '74 Stag original engine and BW35 auto box. It thumps in when changing from drive to reverse or vice versa. It drives with smooth changes. When I checked the fluid level, using the Haynes manual method, it came up short of fluid. So I topped it up. So it then started leaking everywhere. It seemed to be coming from the sump gasket, so I renewed it. D to R and back, changes seem better and after a drive about 100+miles, it all seemed dry underneath. Left it a few days and then found large puddle of fluid underneath again. So while underneath the beast drying it and re- torquing the sump bolts, it dropped fluid into my eye, maybe it thought to take revenge on me for something. But tracked the drip down to the filler/dipstick tube. It was full of fluid. So have siphoned some out so the filler tube is no longer overflowing. So I guess it's overfull. Can't undo the drain screw tho. So what is the correct method of checking the level please ? Any ideas where all this fluid came from, as I don't think I filled it that much. Having siphoned some off, is it likely to fill the tube up and overflow again ? Sorry for the verbal diahorrea.
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I shall find a few threads on this soon, but it seems that some Auto Stags can dump fluid via the breather/dipstick despite the gearbox being at the correct fluid level. -
they don't dump it, they can leak a bit, do you think you've got 6 litres of atf on the ground ? m.Comment
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There's been quite a lot on this. and I must admit I am confused
As an ex mechanic and having worked on BW,ZF, AP, and ford boxes and was sent on a few BW courses I never remember oil loss from breather/dipstick being an issue back then. Also both me and the missis both had Stags in the early 70's both with 35's and this never happened to either I have also owned a fair few other makes fitted with 35's and it never happened to thoes either. Anyway the best explanation seem's to be the converter draining down and overfilling the box due to the valve in the valve block letting past. It seem's the preferd methord of checking the level on the 35 is when hot run through all the gears with the engine running turn it off and check the level within 30seconds. I had this as well as a couple of other problems so in the death I binned it and replaced with a 65 and it's been perfect ever since. Graham
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Try adjusting the kickdown cable as well, that can have a marked effect on shift quality.
Also, what is your tickover rpm? Too high and putting it into Drive will be a jolt.
On the fluid thing, make sure your breather tube is correctly routed (should end over the top of the brake servo). Leaks while standing can be a symptom of a failed non return valve, allowing the torque convertor to drain down, and overfilling the 'box.Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.Comment
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My mistake and fair point, but any oil on the ground to me is dumping/chucking it on the floor these days, especially when friends of mine have pricey driveways if you know what I meanOriginally posted by martin View Post
. Either that, or too many folk are spoiled with owning drip free cars.
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I'll answer for Martin as he can't at the momentOriginally posted by ChasR View PostMy mistake and fair point, but any oil on the ground to me is dumping/chucking it on the floor these days, especially when friends of mine have pricey driveways if you know what I mean. Either that, or too many folk are spoiled with owning drip free cars.
I think it was just a bad choice of word's, what I recon he meant was that they gently overflow from every open orifice. 
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"Marking their territory" is my understanding.Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.Comment
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Guys, thanks for all the comments, do like Wilf's marking their territory one !! No don't have 6 litres on the driptray, maybe a pint or so, (what's a litre anyway, don't do foreign!); the breather does finnish above the servo; kick down adjust and tickover to be checked; scheduled winter job is to rebuild/recon the carbs, Graham that's a completely different method to that from Mr Haynes, have just checked the dipstick, appears wet upto the same point it was after I siphoned some out so does not appear to have filled and overflowed again. However there is fresh leakage on the tray, so either another leak yet to be found, or this is the drippage from where I couldn't dry it offComment
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No you are right it's not the method in the workshop manual either, it was a workshop bulletin issued by (can't remember) whether it was Borg Warner or Triumph. Cheer's GrahamOriginally posted by Omen View PostComment
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Getting a bit fed up with this now. Just been out and looked under, there is easily double the amount there was yesterday. So, there is still a leak somewhere. It is not the dipstick/filler tube, that is at the same point it was. Thinks - if the torque converter is draining back, as the sump/box is overfull where is it likley to come out, so that it drips off the sump bolts, on the near side of the box but not the offside.? If I just leave it till it stops dripping and assume the level has stabilised, I will have no idea how much is in the box, so just never bother to fill it ever again ?Comment
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Don't get disheartened, I've only got the playboy magazine in front of me now (that won't help I hear you say) well it doe's for some of usOriginally posted by Omen View Post
OK as I recall you have the selector shaft (which has a seal )or the inhibitor switch. Two places to look, clean it all up and monitor it over a day or so see if you can locate the leak. Remember it's all doable. Graham
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Is it wet inside the oblong hole (may have a plastic mesh in it) if so the front seal may be leaking which mean's the box has to come out.
Other possibilities are: Oil Cooler unions, Oil cooler Flexible pipes, Selector cross shaft seals, Sump Gasket (can leak when over tightened as well) Breather pipe connections, Inhibitor switch O ring, rear extension gasket or seal, pressure testing plug, Can't think of anything else at the moment.
I suggest you buy a can of Brake cleaner, the solvent based type and wash it all down. It will evaporate and hopefully allow you to find the origin of the leak or leaks.
Ian
Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpicComment
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Thanks Graham, Ian, will check those. Will try the solvent cleaner angle as well. Sure it's doing it on purpose, as having cleaned and dried the driptray off yesterday, had a quick look this morning, and does not look like any fresh has come out. Perhaps it only drips weekdays, has weekends off........ Going to try the playboy angle as well.......!!Comment
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Hi all,
In the original post it mentioned.."It thumps in when changing from drive to reverse or vice versa"...
This is probably due to backlash in the diff I would have thought. Mine does the same. When I had the prop shaft off I rotated the input flange on the diff to see how much back lash there was. It was quite a bit and there have been posts covering this in the past. It may need a diff repair/refurb.
Also if the idle is too high that can cause thumpy changes between D and R.
I will be following this tech note by the sounds of it.
PaulLast edited by paul.twyman; 7 September 2013, 17:18.Comment
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