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Hot/cold heater control cable clip replacement (at the slider end)

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    Hot/cold heater control cable clip replacement (at the slider end)

    As anyone who has tried fixing the hot/cold heater control outer sheath cable clip knows, this is a pig of a job: there is very little room to work in as you need to put your hand through the heater panel/ashtray aperture, then try to force the clip into position.
    I thought I would post my solution here, for anyone searching for advice in the future. I haven't found this idea in the archive.
    Remove the radio and heater control panel and ashtray.
    The outer sheath eventually gets torn or works loose from the clips, or the clips break; the heater control then does not work. The solution is to replace the sheath (buy from a bicycle shop); this is easy enough, just release the cable at the heater valve end, swap the sheath and replace the clip/tighten the ferrule*. The hard part is at the slider control end; my hand only just fits through the aperture and although I could locate the clip, I could not exert enough upward pressure to force it home. After 2 hours of turning the air Anglo-Saxon blue, and with cuts on my knuckles, wrists, fingers, I had an idea.

    Get an off-cut of wood, about 9cm in length. This can be wedged upright in the aperture, one end under the clip; as the wedge is pushed in further upright, the clip is forced home; you will need to guide it in using your other hand working from above/behind perhaps with a small screwdriver. A five minute job**, in the end!

    (*make sure that the slider is in the hot position, so that the sheath is correctly located; see photo; note the position of the heater valve levers so that the inner cable is located properly in the ferrule)
    ( **for the clip. The whole job probably took me 20-30 minutes of actual productive work!)



    Last edited by Stocky; 12 September 2013, 08:36.
    Ross. Perth WA.
    1976 TV8 BW65 Tahiti Blue

    #2
    I have been in there twice, so I had to re-grow the skin on the hands afterwards. After the first repair failure, I bought a new cable, which turned out to be twice as long as the old one, so it is still in the garage. What I did was to put the clip back in place just to loosely hold the cable and anchor it with a clip to the nearest screw on the heater. So far it is still working. I never thought about just replacing the sheath, but I will keep it in mind, as i think the job will re-appear in the future.

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Ross. I tried to get my cable and clip re-attached a few weeks ago after repairing the valve. I have scars to show for it. My valve is just set to 'ON' I will try your idea at the weekend as I am tired of hot feet.

      Me

      Comment


        #4
        I hadn't thought of just replacing the outer sheath either. That's another winter job you have just made considerably easier.

        Thank you.


        Regards

        Dave
        http://www.stagwiki.com | http://parts.stagwiki.com (Under Development)

        Comment


          #5
          This design will cause failure every 6 months. Just enough time to grow the skin back on the back of your hand. The wonders of classic car ownership.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the tip about changing the outer sheathing ,Ross I have to do mine shortly before the autumn as mine keeps slipping out of the clip I was going to try a bit of heat shrink on the outer sheath which I had to do on my Choke cable seems to be a problem with the type of sheathing or the clip they used good old British Leyland why make it easy when you can make it hard like removing the battery Hmmmmmmmmm. It appears it is still happening how long does it take to change a headlight bulb on some modern cars about 2 hours after you have taken the bumper or half the wing off , seems mainly a French thing they have never forgiven us since Agincourt, or Waterloo, or Trafalger or the Olympics Ho HUM hope I do not offend any French Stag owners friends Oops yes I know you beat us at Rugby sometimes.
            Last edited by Essex Stag; 11 September 2013, 22:36.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Essex Stag View Post
              It appears it is still happening how long does it take to change a headlight bulb on some modern cars about 2 hours after you have taken the bumper or half the wing off , seems mainly a French thing
              Try it on some BMW or Audis.

              Besides, with some 20,000 volts running through some Xenon bulbs, do you really want every Tom, Dick or Harry changing them ? (No offence intended to any Toms, Dicks or Harries )

              Cheers

              Julian

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for posting that Ross, this a job for me this winter and I really was not looking forward to it.
                Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                Comment

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