Rust proofing with Bilt Hamber products

[Davenott]

I'm thinking of rust proofing my restored and painted shell with Bilt Hamber products.
I was going to do inside chassis rails, door seams, box sections etc with Dynax S50.
Floors, wheel arches, inside doors, engine bay etc I was going to use Dynax UC (clear) I am thinking of using Dynax UC directly over the paint under the car, so I can see what's going on, rather than risk missing rust developing under underseal unnoticed. I would intend reapplying this yearly to exposed areas like floor and wheel arches.

Any thoughts on this?
Also how many cans of each to do this properly? (I was thinking 4 cans S50 and 4 cans of Dynax UC, I can also use up any spare I have left)
Also if I use Dynax S50 in the hardtop box sections, is it likely to stain the headlining?

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[jleyton]

I'm thinking of rust proofing my restored and painted shell with Bilt Hamber products.
I was going to do inside chassis rails, door seams, box sections etc with Dynax S50.
Floors, wheel arches, inside doors, engine bay etc I was going to use Dynax UC (clear) I am thinking of using Dynax UC directly over the paint under the car, so I can see what's going on, rather than risk missing rust developing under underseal unnoticed. I would intend reapplying this yearly to exposed areas like floor and wheel arches.

Any thoughts on this?
Also how many cans of each to do this properly? (I was thinking 4 cans S50 and 4 cans of Dynax UC, I can also use up any spare I have left)
Also if I use Dynax S50 in the hardtop box sections, is it likely to stain the headlining?

Hi Dave,

I'm a big, big fan of Bilt Hamber products and have used most of them at one time or another. They also seem to keep scoring very well in the various product tests in mags.

I've used S50 in all of my box sections etc so would agree with using it where you suggest. Although I've used UC in some places, my wheel arches etc are already black so I've used UB there, but the UC seems as good.

I keep on pumping it in, year after year so I'm not sure how much you'll need, but I guess your suggested quantities sound about right. One tip - check out Opie oils as a supplier rather then BH direct as sometimes they are cheaper.

For your hardtop, the only bits you need to worry about really are the front and rear cross members and the lower side sections behind the B post. I've done all of these with S50 and not had any problem.

One other suggestion - I've always found BH really helpful when I've rung them for advice. You'll be quite likely finding yourself talking to Peter Hamber himself if you ring.

Cheers

Julian

[Davenott]

Thanks Julian for your reply.

I've found out that the S50 is much cheaper as a 5 litre can [£40] and is also clear rather than brown in this size, but I think I will stick to the aerosol cans as they seem to apply well with the lance and as its being used in the box sections etc the colour doesn't really matter.

For anyone else ready this, I've also being told its best to wiggle the lance slightly as you are withdrawing it, so that it gives a fuller coverage of the box sections in a 360 degree direction. [The lance end sprays out in 4 different directions but the coverage isn't even between, however creep should help even it out if you haven't compensated]
I have read the comments about marking the lance near its end, so you can stop spraying and then don't get an eyeful as it reaches its end and pops out!

Opie oils have got a promotion on Ebay for next couple of days, where if you spend over £40 you get £10 off, so if I split my order into 2, I will get £20 off [minus an extra postage charge of £2.75]

Thanks,
Dave.

[Ian Durrant]

I am really impressed with all the Bilt Hamber products I have tried. My car was treated with waxoyl in 1989 and the insides of the sills showed no sign it had ever been applied when I started this resto (though other areas still have it showing). I'll let you know if the dynax fares any better in another 20 years