Touching up two pack

[Dave M]

One of the rear seams where the rear wing joins the panel that goes across the top of the boot on my Stag has developed a small crack. I took the car to a "smart repairer" who wanted £900 to repaint both rear wings and the connecting panel, could have been more if he needed to repaint the boot lid as well?? Even he said it wasn't worth doing for the small area that needs repairing. Basically all I want to do is seal the crack. I've got a rattle can of the paint that the car was sprayed with about 4 years ago and it matches perfectly when sprayed. On advice from the "smart repairer" I've sprayed some paint into the lid and brushed it into the crack. Once polished back the finish looks ok but the paint dries a different colour when it is brushed on compared to what it does when sprayed.
I've sprayed a test piece of metal and when placed on the boot lid it disappears completely but when brushed the colour is a shade lighter. I've shaken the can for ages to mix the paint but this makes no difference.
Any advice on how to improve this, I'm thinking of buying a small airbrush and spraying the paint on as hopefully the match will be better.
Is it possible to touch up two pack or is it a case of having to do the whole panel and if the whole panel is done can the paint be blended into adjacent panels?
Sorry for the long post but I was under the impression that the idea of a a smart repair was to repair the small area of damage without having to paint the whole panel or is it a case that smart repairs only work on modern paints which have a lacquer coat?

[DJT]

Dave,

I can't answer the question about the paint, but the underlying problem is movement between the wing and rear deck panels. Very difficult to resolve other than digging out the seam and welding it up.

[Dave M]

Dave,

I can't answer the question about the paint, but the underlying problem is movement between the wing and rear deck panels. Very difficult to resolve other than digging out the seam and welding it up.

Yea your right Dave, had the front ones done years ago and they are fine. Can't justify painting the whole rear end for the size of the crack so just want to seal the crack which I can then redo when it reappears, just weird how the paint matches when sprayed yet its lighter when brushed?

[milothedog]

Some of the seams on my car have done that, I just ensure that plenty of wax is applied in those areas effectively sealing it. Well that's the idea anyway

I believe the paint can be blended but the area of repair then becomes bigger to deal with Dave. I understand that you have to flatten off the area of repair larger than needed, do the repair and paint it but don't re-coat the whole of the flatted area, just the repair. When you cut back and polish the new paint you then do the flatted area as well and it will then blend. Don't take my word for it though ask a pro first.

Ian.

[milothedog]

Yea your right Dave, had the front ones done years ago and they are fine. Can't justify painting the whole rear end for the size of the crack so just want to seal the crack which I can then redo when it reappears,

just weird how the paint matches when sprayed yet its lighter when brushed?

I have this on my hard top one or two fish eyes were touched in with a brush after being painted then flatted and polished and they are slightly lighter in colour.

Ian

[Dave M]

I have this on my hard top one or two fish eyes were touched in with a brush after being painted then flatted and polished and they are slightly lighter in colour.

Ian

I'm guessing its the way the paint atomises when sprayed compared to being brushed, hence the air brush idea.

[milothedog]

I have this on my hard top one or two fish eyes were touched in with a brush after being painted then flatted and polished and they are slightly lighter in colour.

Ian

I'm guessing its the way the paint atomises when sprayed compared to being brushed, hence the air brush idea.

If you do air brush it, it might be worth doing what I suggested in the other post about blending.

Ian.

This may help you Dave, I found it a while back when doing some paint work on a Mondeo my son had.

http://www.carsprays.co.uk/

[marshman]

This may help you Dave, I found it a while back when doing some paint work on a Mondeo my son had.

http://www.carsprays.co.uk/

Useful site Ian, has quite a few good tips for small repairs.

Thanks

[Jeff]

Some of the seams on my car have done that, I just ensure that plenty of wax is applied in those areas effectively sealing it. Well that's the idea anyway

I believe the paint can be blended but the area of repair then becomes bigger to deal with Dave. I understand that you have to flatten off the area of repair larger than needed, do the repair and paint it but don't re-coat the whole of the flatted area, just the repair. When you cut back and polish the new paint you then do the flatted area as well and it will then blend. Don't take my word for it though ask a pro first.

Ian.

That's the theory.

[Jeff]

Hi Dave,

with celly and base coat with lacquer on top, what Ian says is correct.

with the base coat, the only way to get a colour match due to different mix, pressure, techniques etc., is to spray onto panels both side of the effected panel just enough to blend in instead of a dead line then clear cote is sprayed over the 3 panels. I am of course talking about metallic base in this case but it explains what I mean, I hope.

to do any other way will look ok to start but will always, always show at a later date.

I have welded the front wings on mine and you could use a wax the same colour or near to the car colour as white wax will show up cracks, unless it's painted white of course, hope that makes sense.

search for my thread 'rear near side wheel arch repair', you will see how I lead laded mine without welding.

Jeff.

[Alanmax]

I think the best solution for your cracking between panels is to have it welded, but I have had some good results by filling with a good epoxy filler from a body shop, I have even used Devcon liquid metal. As for your paint matching problem you say your cars been sprayed in 2 pack so it should be easy to fade out the colour into the existing paintwork if it is a solid colour. I usually paint the area and fade into the existing area using fadeout thinner mixed withe clear laquer, this softens the edge, leave to dry then polish with G3 compound. Make shure you prepair the area to be painted with the G3 first. Best of luck.

[Bob Heritage]

You shouldn't have too much problem if you want to touch up a two pack, but if you touch up a six pack , you might get a slap

[Dave M]

You shouldn't have too much problem if you want to touch up a two pack, but if you touch up a six pack , you might get a slap

long time since I had a six pack Bob, remember NW

[Motorsport Micky]

The consolation is you still do have a six pack (we all have, otherwise your torso can't bend or flex ) but if it's like mine it's got a tad too much "covering" on it to allow other people to see it lol.

Micky

[Dave M]

The consolation is you still do have a six pack (we all have, otherwise your torso can't bend or flex ) but if it's like mine it's got a tad too much "covering" on it to allow other people to see it lol.

Micky

I feel so much better now Micky