Brake Bleed Nipple Spanner Size

[PimentoRed]

Hi

Anybody tell me what size spanner is needed to turn the brake bleed nipple please?

Thx

Mike

[V Mad]

You may not have the original ones in there but try 7/16 AF.

[PimentoRed]

Thank you! Mike

[richardthestag]

The rear cylinders are 1/4af iirc

Front callipers 7/16

[PimentoRed]

Thx Richard

That size looks more like it. Only got a socket in that size so I'm off to Halfords!

Thx

Mike

[richardthestag]

if they have not been undone for some time be careful. use the ring end of the spanner, lots of plusgas and be gentle. if it doesn't undo then try tightening first gently. if it does sheer then new cylinders don't break the bank.

also when bleeding the rear brakes I disconnect one of the handbrake cable connectors, bleed brakes, then reattach handbrake.

[PimentoRed]

Richard,

Thanks for the tips. I'm building up to it once I get some af spanners. It does look a little tight behind the wheel to get a spanner in I have to say! Why do you disengage the handbrake cable is that for ease of access? How straightforward is it to disengage?

Mike

[richardthestag]

disconnecting handbrake cable should just be a case of wheel chocked to stop das motor rolling away, handbrake lever down, remove split pin and clevis from the lever on the back of the brake drum. piece of cake compared to bleeding brakes. if you are nervous about that get a local wingman to show you how. it is easy enough.

Because the handbrake uses the same mechanism as the footbrake a tight handbrake cable, for me, has stopped the brakes from being bled successfully. In one case the rear hydraulic cylinder was completely inoperative because of badly DPO adjusted handbrake. may have just been me lol. but since then I always disconnect one end of the handbrake cable when bleeding brakes.

anyone else got any input / theory on this?

yes access for 1/4 spanner is tight, use ring end, normally only need to turn it 45-60 degrees to get fluid flowing, brake bleed pipe with non return valve is pretty useful for these jobs

[PimentoRed]

Hi Richard

Thanks again. It sounds simple enough, but the again so do most of the procedures in the manual until you add in to the mix 37 years of Triumph rust and muck and gunge! Lol.

I'm just getting to grips with my Stag, I have very little experience of mechanics having been brought up on a diet of computer programming and network configurations but my family all used to work for Triumph at Canley. I'm trying to get my Stag reliable enough to drive without the constant fear of a break down.

Funnily enough my dad was a time served mechanic but he passed on when I was 17 and i was more interested in girls than learning about cars. I ended up marrying the girl who is now very understanding when I disappear for hours to the garage. I can stand for ages just looking at the car, trying to figure out how it all works.

I have had to order af spanners as Halfords wanted £30 for a set, I only need one!

I did buy the bleed kit which should help, wish I had a pit in the garage, that would make things easier

Mike

[Mike Stevens]

Disconnecting the handbrake cable is needed when you want to get the auto adjusters to work properly, but I have to admit that I can't see the connection with bleeding them! However, as said, it is easy to do so why not?

Good luck with your work. I'm sure you will find that the concern beforehand is much more worrying than actually doing the job!

Cheers,
Mike.

[PimentoRed]

Hi Mike

Thanks for the info.

I'm hoping that your confidence rubs off somehow lol

Mike