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Window regulator "rivet pin" - any tips

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    Window regulator "rivet pin" - any tips

    Hi all

    Took the door card off to find out why window wouldn't work and I find the arm disconnected from the slider and the roller disintegrated. I'm surprised the whole window hadn't dropped down - only the friction of the guides keeping it up - no wonder it was slow to work.

    I've bought a couple of new rollers and rivet pins from Tony Hart on eBay and I should have them for the weekend.

    Any tips on fitting them? I haven't any special riveting tools - can I do without or should I buy something? Presumably something that I would then hit with a hammer to fit it.

    I'm also making the assumption that I remove the regulator and motor from the door and fit the roller on the bench and then put it all back together again.

    As always your help and ideas are appreciated.

    Chris

    #2
    Originally posted by Chris L-D View Post
    Hi all

    Took the door card off to find out why window wouldn't work and I find the arm disconnected from the slider and the roller disintegrated. I'm surprised the whole window hadn't dropped down - only the friction of the guides keeping it up - no wonder it was slow to work.

    I've bought a couple of new rollers and rivet pins from Tony Hart on eBay and I should have them for the weekend.

    Any tips on fitting them? I haven't any special riveting tools - can I do without or should I buy something? Presumably something that I would then hit with a hammer to fit it.

    I'm also making the assumption that I remove the regulator and motor from the door and fit the roller on the bench and then put it all back together again.

    As always your help and ideas are appreciated.

    Chris

    chris

    i have one to do as well so would be interested on how you get on

    dave

    Comment


      #3
      When l did mine l had to disconnect remove the winder from the car. This involved removing the SS window surround bolts allowing it to move and get the winder away from the glass and pull it out. I drilled out the old rivet and put in the new wheel. As the rivet is "soft" l hit it with a hammer with the head on a metal vice.
      Not pretty but worked. then replaced all back. Watch out where the bolts came from, 1 is shorter for a reason !! It did scratch the **** out of the paint on the inside top of the door though...............

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by malc4d View Post
        Watch out where the bolts came from, 1 is shorter for a reason !! It did scratch the **** out of the paint on the inside top of the door though...............
        yep exactly. Bolts in wrong place can also jam the window about 2/3 way down. I wonder how I know that

        Cheers

        Julian

        Comment


          #5
          Ah - thanks - I'll watch out for bolt length. Wouldn't want to do that now that I know.

          As for the rivet then I've a steel punch that I hope will do the job. Not pretty no doubt but as long as it functions.

          Once greased up and the runners lubricated then I'm hoping for a quick running window - just like new?!

          Thanks

          Chris

          Comment


            #6
            OK - I did the job yesterday and it was dirty and difficult. Fitting the roller was the easy bit!

            Mine's a mark I so I guess that there are a few differences to mark II's. The Haynes manual shows a mark II and isn't much help anyway.

            I hadn't realised that to get the motor and regulator out I'd have to remove the whole glass and frame. That was what was difficult and took the time. Rusted in bolts etc. I couldn't get it fully out but high enough to let the regulator slip underneath.

            Simple to drill out the old pin. New one made me feel like a blacksmith the number of times I gave it some welly. A pointed chisel wasn't much use. A flat cold steel chisel and a lump hammer started it off but what really worked was taking it off the bench and putting in onto a sledge hammer then hitting the end with the lump hammer. Made a neat job.

            Plenty of mucking around getting it all back in position. Plenty of Vaseline in the guides and it slips up and down really well. (Note - it'll thermal cut out after a few continuous runs up and down. It resets quite quickly - that's the one bit I did learn from Haynes).

            So do I strip the other side and replace the roller now before it breaks? I think I'll wait.

            Oh - as for the short bolt - all mine seemed short - maybe a difference in the early models (LD364).

            Thanks for the help.

            Chris.

            Comment

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