Help Request re Hard Top Wiring Feed

[JohnN]

Hi Folks: I've been tidying up my Hard Top in readiness for another cold winter here in New Jersey, USA. It is now ready for installation. The rear window heater element is good and the wiring to the 'stud' connections is too.
On inspecting the electrical 'sockets' on top of each B pillar on the car, I see I have some work to do. One looks okay and has its wire connected to the underside, the other socket is missing and I can see no wiring at all when I shine a light down the pillar. I will replace both sockets with new ones but would like some guidance please on where the wiring actually enters the bottom of each pillar. Before I start removing trim, carpet etc., I'm hoping someone can focus me in more precisely on how to access where the wires go/should go. I have the wiring diagram and the shop manual but there is nothing to indicate the physical location.
This Forum is a gold mine of information, tips and generous help, I'd be really struggling on the various tasks required on the car without what I learn from checking in here daily. I've enjoyed my British cars from being a teenager growing up in Manchester, continuing ownership and the repairing of one car or another during my many years living in Canada and the USA. Despite those years of hands experience, the STAG raises issues I've not come across before and hence my thanks to all on this site.

My biggest regret is missing out on the many car Shows I read about that many of you attend, I shall have to plan a trip home the way Tanya did recently and meet some of you all.

Long winded, considering I'm a bit of an introvert, but nonetheless any help you can offer will be much appreciated. Thank you.
Cheers, John
Mid 1973 STAG MkI/II, manual with O/D

[Hettiherald]

Hi john
Just recently done this on my stag. The wire enters the b pillar at its base. Very easy to get at, just remove the cover panels from the pillar( a bit of a pain) and you will find the errant wire residing in the bottom of the pillar!
Good luck!
Regards
Dave

[JohnN]

Thanks Dave. I'll sort it out on the weekend, but much quicker now. Best Regards, John

[jleyton]

Hi John,

It is just as Dave has said.

You may be very lucky with one of those long springy wire claw tools and be able to reach down through the empty hole and grab the wire with the tool, however you will probably have to remove the B pillar trim.

To do this, you need to remove the seat belt bolts and the very small chrome screw right at the bottom front of the trim - it screws into the sill top. You will probably also have to loosen the T bar - just two or three turns will probably be enough (and on some cars this may not be necessary). Then you will have to remove the additional vertical chrome cover that protects the rear of the B post trim (although this was not fitted to very early cars) which is held by three very small chrome screws (these can be troublesome sometimes)

Then, that should be almost it. The trim is finally held by three metal clips on the back and these can be pretty tight - to the point that you may think you've not released all of the fixings - but careful pulling from the base should eventually release the bottom one and then the next two should be easier.

Mind you, if you've had your B trim off before, you'll know all of this

Cheers

Julian

Ps When you're doing the right hand one, be careful not to dislodge the three wires coming up the pillar that feed the interior light (assuming you've got the Mk2 single roof light) - I note that your's sounds like a Mk 1 1/2.

[JohnN]

Thanks Julian, you and Dave have provided me with a clear picture which is what I was hoping for. The right pillar on my LHD model will only require the loosening of the T Bar and careful replacement of the socket. I should be able to do this without disturbing the wiring too much. Thanks for the tip on the center courtesy light wiring. The left pillar however will need the trim removed as there is no evidence of any existing wiring as far as I can see.
Again, sincere thanks and have a great weekend! John

[JohnN]

Hi John,

It is just as Dave has said.

You may be very lucky with one of those long springy wire claw tools and be able to reach down through the empty hole and grab the wire with the tool, however you will probably have to remove the B pillar trim.

To do this, you need to remove the seat belt bolts and the very small chrome screw right at the bottom front of the trim - it screws into the sill top. You will probably also have to loosen the T bar - just two or three turns will probably be enough (and on some cars this may not be necessary). Then you will have to remove the additional vertical chrome cover that protects the rear of the B post trim (although this was not fitted to very early cars) which is held by three very small chrome screws (these can be troublesome sometimes)

Then, that should be almost it. The trim is finally held by three metal clips on the back and these can be pretty tight - to the point that you may think you've not released all of the fixings - but careful pulling from the base should eventually release the bottom one and then the next two should be easier.

Mind you, if you've had your B trim off before, you'll know all of this

Cheers

Julian

Ps When you're doing the right hand one, be careful not to dislodge the three wires coming up the pillar that feed the interior light (assuming you've got the Mk2 single roof light) - I note that your's sounds like a Mk 1 1/2.

-----------------------------
Well, I awoke early this morning (somewhat due to our new 6week old Seeing Eye [guide dog] puppy wanting outside!) but with your suggestion of 'fishing' for the B Pillar wiring foremost in my mind (sad isn't it!). Although there was no sign of it at all, even with a bulb attached to two long wires lowered down the inside, I tried the old straightened coat hanger with a hook on one end approach. I must've fished 8 or 9 times as far down as it would go, I was ready to give up when it snagged something that offered little resistance to being gently tugged upwards. Sure enough, it was the remains of the earth socket still connected to the wire.
The rest was straight forward and I had the two new sockets installed in no time at all. A great way to start the weekend! Thank you again Julian and Dave, I really appreciate your help and suggestions. Best regards, John

[jleyton]

Hi John,

I'm really pleased that all worked ok for you

It's great when something works and doubly so when people come back, as you have done, to say thanks

Cheers

Julian

[Hettiherald]

Well done john.
Wish mine had been as easy, but at least it gives you more driving time now!!!
Regards
Dave

[Westfaling]

John
How did you determine your heating element is good? Do you know what the resistance should be side to side?
Thanks
Nick

[JohnN]

John
How did you determine your heating element is good? Do you know what the resistance should be side to side?
Thanks
Nick

Hi Nick: the resistance measures approximately 24ohms across the element. We had frost last week and I quickly put a 12volt feed to the defroster and it quickly defrosted the light surface frost. I have had to provide a new 'permanent' feed to the B Pillar socket as my car is A/C spec (but won't be sorted until next Spring) and it is wired into the A/C control relay. I will mount a temporary relay to carry the load feed and run a wire from the Defroster switch to operate it.
I am having a difficult time getting the hard top rear latch to lock. The four manual swivel latches align as do the two stud/socket electrical connections. But try as I might today I could not get the centre rear latch to lock onto the hard top. The rear rubber seal sits okay and there is no gap, I'll try again tomorrow but applying any kind of downward pressure to the latch is quite awkward short of standing on it and that surely is going 'over the top'! Sorry about that ;-)
I'll let you know how I make out. Best Regards, John

[JohnN]

I'm just re-posting this trying to show it as being active. I seem to be posting incorrectly, my mistakes I'm afraid. John

[Westfaling]

John
Thanks for the info
Nick

[jleyton]

Hi John,

Many owners remove that centre rear pin on the hardtop, mainly to prevent possible damage to the boot when fitting the hardtop.

It is not critical to the fitting of the hardtop and if, as you say, your rear rubber is seating ok then all's well. I'd remove the pin, if I were you.

Cheers

Julian

[DJT]

Hi John,

Many owners remove that centre rear pin on the hardtop, mainly to prevent possible damage to the boot when fitting the hardtop.

It is not critical to the fitting of the hardtop and if, as you say, your rear rubber is seating ok then all's well. I'd remove the pin, if I were you.

Cheers

Julian

Seconded. Removed mine several years ago and have noted no problems with doing so.

[JohnN]

Delighted to hear that Julian, Dave. It sits nicely on its rear seal and is quite securely held at four points, seeing as though it's in position now though I think I'll remove the latch pin come the Spring. It's doing no harm where it is for now and the top is awkward to move around without some help.
Thanks for the advice guys, I can now now enjoy my 'new look' car with a functioning defroster. We had frost again last night and this time it worked off its own power supply. Best regards to all. John