Choke cable repair

[alan_thomas]

Well the problem startedwhen I decided tore-veneer the dash (oak burr, looking very nice!), had to remove the choke cable to remove the wood. The cable was badly frayed and there is no waythey aregoing to thread back down thru the outers.

Why are the choke cables so expensive? I cannot believeit is not possibe to refit new cables into the choke pull. It appears that they are 'crimped' into place in 2 points so my plan is to drill thru the crimping remove the old cables, buy 2 metres of bowden cable (a couple of cycle back brake cables will do nicely). Then 'tin' the ends of the cables and slot them into the pull and solder thru the drilled holes. I used to solder nipples on brake cales in my old motorcycling days so soldering must be strong enough.

Anyone successfully fitted new cables to a choke pull?

- Alan

[WHITESTAG]

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Hi Alan!

Read your post with interest... as I had to replace mine for exactly same reason bought a veneer kit to suit!!(EBAY)

I have veneer kits on my other cars but the one fitted to STAG was an utter swine to fit-and frankly was not very well laser cut- I sourced cable-a used one through Just Triumph ..viaebay utter pan of a job to do!

Cannot see any reason why re feeding and crimping should not work though but sounds pretty tedious job....

I have just fitted a tonneau release assy and cable- took virtually all day to get right... you have to free the cables at handle pull and route properley or affects soft top fold up snarling... keep a watchfull eye on choke cable secure cllips ...have habit of snappin!

BEST OF LUCK:dude:PHIL

[Stagdad]

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Alan

i had to adapt my cable for a single thicker one to fit my holley .I fixed it at the knob end by feeding the cable in and then passing a sharp tack through a hole i drilled and through the centre of the cable swaging it apart like a wall plug.then i flatened the tack both sides like a rivet and filed flush .worked a treat.

Steve

[paulh]

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Hi WHITESTAG

Thinking of buy veneer kit but after your comments now have doubts.
Did yours come from walnut dash company?

[alan_thomas]

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Didn't use a kit, bought the veneer off Ebay for £8. Labour of love glueing, cutting and varnishing though! - Alan

[Marco Polo]

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I replaced the cables 6 years ago, by drilling out the swage and silver soldering the new cables in place. I used bike back brake cables, never had a problem since!

I have also just reveneered my dash and consolein American Black Walnut, it takes a lot of time to do well, but well worth the effort, one of the most rewarding jobs I've done on the car!

It cost me AUD 45 for the veneer and AUD 50 for the varnish, I did a Google search on method and materials, Rustins plasticote was the varnish I used.

regards,

Raoul

[WHITESTAG]

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:dude:HI PAUL!

I got mine from an outfit from states- to be fair I bought having previously got for my VOLVO V70 which was superb! -however STAG one I got -was not laser cut accuratley- was out a few mm on dash door and was not cut right for gear shift base !

I have fitted a few before on various cars but this was a sod of a job!

you ONLY GET ONE CHANCE TO FIT ACCURATLEY!strip every instrument out prior-I strongly suggest clean all panels with isopropyl alcholol prior to fitting!

You cannot trim these kits! if you do the varnish layer will lift off! and ruin!

Make sure you order correctly mk1 or 2!!!!!

Havin said that I may have just been unlucky!- took 10 days to get!

:dude:all the best !

PHIL

[paulh]

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Hi Phil

Think I will try fitting my own veneer. Like thesound and lookof American Walnut

Thanks

Paul

[toneil461]

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If you have an original choke cable you don't have to remove the cable as a whole unit (from the carbs). Just detatch the knob by pressing the spring loaded pin from the chokepulland undo the securing chrome nut and push out of the dash...

Terry..

[WHITESTAG]

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:dude:HI Paul!

Best of luck! in hindsight I wish I had done the same!

mainly because I have had to take out my CD/Rad a few times and and have caught the top varnish layer- and has lifted in parts!! p.s hope you lucky to have an orriginal choke cable! whereby you can take control knob off!! I sadly did not !! as this is a positive **** of a job! and took ages!!!

The walnut sounds crackin! - mine is similar!!!

:dude:may your V8 burble!

PS just bagged the gunson carbalancer of EBAY for daft money!! just arrived ! is pretty good bit of kit!!!

Have fun!!!

[John]

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toneil461 wrote:

If you have an original choke cable you don't have to remove the cable as a whole unit (from the carbs). Just detatch the knob by pressing the spring loaded pin from the chokepulland undo the securing chrome nut and push out of the dash...

Are you sure? The knob doesn't come off mine - no spring pin or anything as there is in the rear window/fan switches.

[toneil461]

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Hi John,

Yes100%, I have just removed mine to fit radio plate and as far as I know it's the original choke cable. Maybe others can confirm this.

Rgds

Terry..

PS, Whitestag confims this! (never read his post before replying)Sorry!!!

[Davej]

Hi I know this is an old post but I have used the above information and it worked great, the only thing I done different was the two break cables were slightly larger £3.95 for the two, I drilled out the two crimps very easy then drilled down the centre of the shaft to make the hole slightly bigger for the cables and also for the solder to have more grip, I then heated the whole end bit so the solder would flow between the cables and made sure it came up to the top of the hole where the crimp was,works perfect. Thanks for the advice.
Dave Haggett Stag member 2130

[elvimto]

Hi Dave,
what did you use to solder the cables with, did you use a gas butane torch ? what sort of solder did you use? type of flux etc. I have a spare choke cable set up that i need to replace the cables and a few pointers would make it a bit easier.

cheers Stuart

[Davej]

Choke cable

Hi Dave,
what did you use to solder the cables with, did you use a gas butane torch ? what sort of solder did you use? type of flux etc. I have a spare choke cable set up that i need to replace the cables and a few pointers would make it a bit easier.

cheers Stuart

Hi Stewart I used a flux cored solder from draper stock part 44040 part no SW2A, then heated the end with propane gas so the solder would fall all around the cables and inside the shaft then made sure the solder came up level with the shaft where the crimps were to acted as nipple.

Regards Dave