Can anyone recommend the best type of stud extractor for a Stag, i'm fearing the worst so want to be prepared.
Thks
Tim
Thks
Tim
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Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic -
Hi Tim
I have the Churchill version of the tool that Ian has recommended(and it is a good choice),however with my heads my tool struggled on a couple of studs.
I reverted back to locking 2 nuts together and my air wrench moved them..
It all depends on how stuck they are..you might be lucky
SamComment
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And if that one doesn't work then this might be worth a try, at least I've had some success with it: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Impact-...e-Sealey-AK718
However, be careful not to overdo it, as I managed to snap one head stud with it, but the grip around the stud from this tool is astounding. There are of course other brands of these impact stud extractors that work in exactly the same way.
Cheers,
JoakimComment
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the extractor ian recommended will fit on all the studs. the chunkier one that Joakim recommended will struggle with the front stud on each head.
the stud extractors I had removed all but one stud
I managed to get all but one of the bolts out, B*******d F*******g thing snapped!
I then used double nut method to shift 4 of the head studs. They all came out dead easy. remainder were very tight.
Using the stud extractor suggested by Ian i removed another 2 and sheared 3, one would not budge and I valued my knuckles. but by this point the thread was chewing up on the extractor!
I borrowed Goldstars head lifter, thanks fella. Jacked the heads off the offending studs. Best remove chain guides and exhaust down pipes first. they will be in the way.
I used a draper jobby
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that I had on the shelf and that got three stud remains out leaving one sawn stud and the bolt. Nothing would shift those!
They ended up being spark eroded out, pricey but effective.
getting things glowing, freezing, welding nuts on them etc etc etc did nothing. . I hindsight i would have jacked the head a little higher and left more of the dead stud in the block. it might have gone eventually. the bolt was broken 1mm proud of the block so it was going to be an engineering job anyway.Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loonyComment
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Being the Magpie I am, I bought one of these some time back. Not had a chance to use it yet but I have confidence that given enough stud or bolt is still protruding to get the drill guide on this will allow stubborn ones to be drilled out of the block leaving a thin shell to extract and leaving the thread to be cleaned out with a Tap.
Ian
Last edited by milothedog; 3 February 2014, 14:57.Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpicComment
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You can try it out on the studs in the back of my diff if you like Ian
Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn'tComment
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Originally posted by Goldstar View PostYou can try it out on the studs in the back of my diff if you like Ian
Explain more Paul
IanWise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpicComment
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I only managed to get 1 stud out of 10 removed using the locking nut method, i'm now going to buy the Laser stud extractor for the rest of them.
The bolts had evidence of copper slip so fingers crossed.
TimComment
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Just a quick update i managed to get both heads off.
I found the Tony Hart extractor excellent and was able to remove 7 studs and then had to use the draper tool for the rest, unfortunately one sheared but got it out in the end.
The engine was out of the car on a stand so I was able to gain good access and leverage which helped.
TImComment
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That's good feedback, think I'll get me one of those Sealey extractors then. Thanks TimPaul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn'tComment
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