electronic ignition problems

[georgestag1]

The luminition electronic ignition failed on our MK 11 original triumph V8 engine. I fitted an ACCUSPARK electronic ignition and I have the following problem or problems.

Timing the ignition by the lamp method as per the ACCUSPARK method, which differs from the triumph R O M method in as much as you connect the lamp to the negative coil connection and battery negative terminal.

With the # 2 piston at 12 degrees BTDC I expected to see the lamp light momentarily at 12 degrees BTDC and remain unlit for the remaining 78 degrees of the quarter turn and repeat thereafter at each quarter turn of the shaft.

I contacted ACCUSPARK re the above. They informed me the unit was working. They didn't comment on the operation of the lamp.

Positioning the coil lead and a plug lead to earth in turn I get a healthy spark, starter cranking the engine. Repeating the above and hand cranking the engine I get no spark. I have in the past got a spark hand cranking when the luminition system was working.


The coil, dis cap and rotor arm are new, the carbs have been competently overhauled. The alternator is electrically connected but not being driven.


The engine spins merrily on the starter with no sign of firing using "easi start" or petrol. Not even a little back fire or splutter.


I'm confident the collective knowledge of fellow club members will be able to tell me what the problem or problems are.


I'm seriously considering regressing to the two points system.


I'm open to all remedies short of employing a box of matches.


Cheers to all. I live in hopes. At least we're not flooded out.


Georegstag1.

[wilf]

Mods note: Georgstag - I assume you closed this thread in error, as it does appear you were expecting some replies.

So I opened it back up so that other forum members can indeed reply. If that is incorrect, please let me know via PM.

[Staggard]

The luminition electronic ignition failed on our MK 11 original triumph V8 engine. I fitted an ACCUSPARK electronic ignition and I have the following problem or problems.

Timing the ignition by the lamp method as per the ACCUSPARK method, which differs from the triumph R O M method in as much as you connect the lamp to the negative coil connection and battery negative terminal.

With the # 2 piston at 12 degrees BTDC I expected to see the lamp light momentarily at 12 degrees BTDC and remain unlit for the remaining 78 degrees of the quarter turn and repeat thereafter at each quarter turn of the shaft.

I contacted ACCUSPARK re the above. They informed me the unit was working. They didn't comment on the operation of the lamp.

Positioning the coil lead and a plug lead to earth in turn I get a healthy spark, starter cranking the engine. Repeating the above and hand cranking the engine I get no spark. I have in the past got a spark hand cranking when the luminition system was working.


The coil, dis cap and rotor arm are new, the carbs have been competently overhauled. The alternator is electrically connected but not being driven.


The engine spins merrily on the starter with no sign of firing using "easi start" or petrol. Not even a little back fire or splutter.


I'm confident the collective knowledge of fellow club members will be able to tell me what the problem or problems are.


I'm seriously considering regressing to the two points system.


I'm open to all remedies short of employing a box of matches.


Cheers to all. I live in hopes. At least we're not flooded out.


Georegstag1.

Hi George?, if you Google Accuspark there is a U tube demo on there which would explain better it also explains setting the timing up with a strobe. Graham

[73stagman]

I did have trouble setting the static timing with the accuspark unit but I managed to over come the trouble as I could hear it buzzing and could make the buzzing start or stop by turning the dizzy. I reckoned that the buzzing was in effect an indicator of where the trigger was in relation to the crank shaft just like a lamp is.
It was close enough to get the engine started.
I also got rid of the ballast resistor and run a non ballasted coil from accuspark. Which means I can power the accuspark trigger from the feed to the coil as its always 12 volt.
I also have the black box stealth unit.... another long story!

[Stagsongas]

George,

Reading your description makes me wonder if you have a ballast resistor connection problem or fault. With all connections correct and ignition on, you should get a spark whether the engine is cranked by hand or by the starter, and you could argue that you should see a better spark with the starter not being used (more juice)but none of what you found appears to add up save for perhaps having a very weak spark actually at the plug gap.

Many a good spark is thrown from the end of an HT lead, but is actually too weak to make it across the plug gap under compression.

I guess the engine earth strap has been checked and it's all good? Sometimes it's only the throttle and choke cables that earth the engine if that strap is not working.

Good Luck

Steve

[MSC]

The youtube video shows how to connect for a non-ballasted system. On the stag it is best to connect the red lead directly to a 12 volt supply such as can be found at the inertia switch (white wire).

The same applies to Lumenition etc. The power supply for the electronic module should go to an unballasted 12 volt supply.

[Staggard]

The youtube video shows how to connect for a non-ballasted system. On the stag it is best to connect the red lead directly to a 12 volt supply such as can be found at the inertia switch (white wire).

The same applies to Lumenition etc. The power supply for the electronic module should go to an unballasted 12 volt supply.

Sorry I dont agree, Lumination is different set up with an optical trigger and an amplifier box that needs a 12 volt feed. The Accuspark is a magnetic switch and will switch 6volt as well as 12volt it is not powered as such.

[73stagman]

Sorry I dont agree, Lumination is different set up with an optical trigger and an amplifier box that needs a 12 volt feed. The Accuspark is a magnetic switch and will switch 6volt as well as 12volt it is not powered as such.

You might be right but Accuspark say that the trigger needs 12 volt supply not a ballasted supply. the info is easy found on Google but Accusparks site is down at present

[georgestag1]

Thank you all for responding with advice re my problem. I must apologise for probably wasting your collective time. In my posting I omitted to include the following in my third para.

With the # 2 piston at BTDC I esxpected to see the lamp light momentarily at 12 degrees from BTDC and remain unlit for the remaining 78 degrees of the quarter turn and repeat thereafter at each quarter turn of the shaft. I should have added the following information. The lamp went out momentarily at 12 degrees BTDC and remained lit for the remaining 78 degrees of the quarter turn of the shaft. This occurred at ech quarter turn of the shaft. This was the info ACCUSPARK didn't comment on.


The 12 volt supply (from the inertia switch white wire) to the module bypasses the ballast resistor wire. My multimeter shows I have 12 volts at the negative and postive coil connections with the ignition switched on.


The chassis to engine flexi cable shows virtually zero resistance (sound as a pound)

I note the lack of a spark during hand cranking is a puzzle to members and me too.

I hope this additional info will be of more help in solving my problem.

Would a strobe light work just on engine cranking?. I have used a strobe on a running engine.

Cheers to all

Georgestag1


Now to have another go at static timing

[73stagman]

Assuming you have the right piston as no 2? It wouldn't be the first time a mistake had been made like that and that the leads are all in the right place ensuring the right firing order is possible.

[MSC]

The 12 volt supply (from the inertia switch white wire) to the module bypasses the ballast resistor wire.

That should work OK

I note the lack of a spark during hand cranking is a puzzle to members and me too.

The Accuspark will probably only start working when cranked at starter speed.

Would a strobe light work just on engine cranking?.

It should do.

Now to have another go at static timing

You cannot measure the static timing in the normal way with a lamp or meter because the module shuts offl.

I hope that helps.

[Owl Man]

When I changed my lumenition to the accuspark set up the timing was so far out once I had fitted the new accuspark I had to unbolt, lift up and slightly turn the distributer to get it closer to where it should be and then used the adjustment bolts and battery powered stobe to set it up. It should fire assuming the rota arm is spinning round. I also used the accuspark coil so that the ballast wire is no longer connected to coil. Seems to run fine.

[georgestag1]

I've checked and recheched #2 piston position (12 degrees BTDC) with the rotor arm pointing too the far bolt seuring the coil. This is easy to do as my coil is mounted on the bulkhead. I've done compression checks on 6 cylinders (flattened the battery otherwise I would have done all 8) spinning the engine about 30 secs each time, the pressures range from 55--50 psi. Still no engine firing. Comments please

Now a question for stagman. I note you managed to do static timing on an ACCUSPARK system. Did the lamp light momentarily as you came to TDC and remain unlit for the following quarter turn and thereafter at each quarter turn.As per the Triumph ROM.

Or as I experienced the lamp being lit as you come to TDC then goes out momentarily. This occurs at each quarter turn of the shaft. I did mention this to ACCUSPARK when I contacted them with my problem but the never commented on that question. I would greatly appreciate your comments or indeed from anyone else on this question. The lamp is lit for approx a full quarter turn then goes out momentarily when a piston is near or at TDC.

Kindest regards to all. Georgestag1

Cheers to all Georgestag1

[Staggard]

I've checked and recheched #2 piston position (12 degrees BTDC) with the rotor arm pointing too the far bolt seuring the coil. This is easy to do as my coil is mounted on the bulkhead. I've done compression checks on 6 cylinders (flattened the battery otherwise I would have done all 8) spinning the engine about 30 secs each time, the pressures range from 55--50 psi. Still no engine firing. Comments please

Now a question for stagman. I note you managed to do static timing on an ACCUSPARK system. Did the lamp light momentarily as you came to TDC and remain unlit for the following quarter turn and thereafter at each quarter turn.As per the Triumph ROM.

Or as I experienced the lamp being lit as you come to TDC then goes out momentarily. This occurs at each quarter turn of the shaft. I did mention this to ACCUSPARK when I contacted them with my problem but the never commented on that question. I would greatly appreciate your comments or indeed from anyone else on this question. The lamp is lit for approx a full quarter turn then goes out momentarily when a piston is near or at TDC.

Kindest regards to all. Georgestag1

Cheers to all Georgestag1

Hi George I hope you have left a 1 out in front of your compression readings

[73stagman]

Re the Accuspark. I didnt use a lamp. The accuspark unit uses a magnetic field which induces a current in the low tension side of the coil to great the HT spark from the coil. Unless the trigger is spinning there is no induced current and so no spark. It just so happens though as you turn the dissy VERY slowly you can hear the field buzz as the magnet in the trigger approaches the electric one in the fixed part of the accuspark unit.
I found out by accident. I could hear this "Buzz" and thought there was something wrong as the engine wouldnt fire. I then took off the dizzy cap and flicked the magnetic pick up and gave my self a HT belt. It hurts like the devil but at least I knew I should be able to get a spark at the plugs. I used the "buzzing" as my "lamp" and it was easilly almost a full plug position out... dont forget you only get a total of 45 deg (at the distributor)) between sparks which is not a lot of rotation of the dizzy from one spark plug to the next.
Anyway it worked and the engine fired and ran the next time I tried!

Like Staggard though I think rather hope you have made a mistake with your compression figures