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    Electric windows not working

    My brother in law ( who has a nice 944 ) wanted to put his car on my 2post lift to have a look at the exhaust as I was working away I said " just move it out of the garage and back again when you have finished", this is about 30 yards total.

    when I got home he had done what he wanted but just mentioned in passing " did you know both windows don't work and the drivers one is down" On inspection the switches don't rock any more and there is no power to them I suspect the thermal cut out because I suspect that the heavy handed twerp has been pressing them the wrong way and has blown the cut out, he must have used a sledge hammer to press them as well looking at the inside of them.

    Before I investigate the cut out does anyone have an alternative source for one as I have just seen the Rimmers price and at least Dick Turpin wore a hat !

    would a fuse holder work just as well ? to my literal mind thermal cut out is another way of describing a fuse!
    Standard stag thrashed and enjoyed, Nissan Murano ( very underrated, very thirsty, very fast)

    #2
    exactly , a fuse is the way to go that is what im going to replace mine with been meaning to do it for ages . not sure on the rating yet need to look at that . the switches come apart easy for repair /cleaning .
    steve
    Beautiful early mk1 white tv8 mod? MGB GT and now looking for another V8

    Comment


      #3
      Gents, Just my two bob's worth. I would imagine that when your window comes to a stop at the top or bottom of its travel, (and you have not yet released the switch), the thermal opens the circuit until you release the window switch. It then re-sets. If you replace the thermal with a fuse you may well end up changing blown fuses with regular monotony.
      That is not to say that your present problem may be a faulty thermal switch that is remaining open circuit (due to abuse or ageing) and not resetting to it's normally closed position to allow your windows to work as per normal.
      Peter

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for that does anyone have a spare thermal cut out? Or an alternative I can't believe that they are a unique part
        Standard stag thrashed and enjoyed, Nissan Murano ( very underrated, very thirsty, very fast)

        Comment


          #5
          The thermal cut out only works if the is jammed of obstructed by something. It was a long time ago I stripped and rebuilt mine and for the life of me I cant remember what controls the travel. Someone will. Graham

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Staggard View Post
            The thermal cut out only works if the is jammed of obstructed by something. It was a long time ago I stripped and rebuilt mine and for the life of me I cant remember what controls the travel. Someone will. Graham
            There isn't anything, just the thermal trip Graham. You just need to find out what the current draw is when both are operated and as said replace it with a blade fuse holder (resetable type)

            Ian.
            Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by milothedog View Post
              There isn't anything, just the thermal trip Graham. You just need to find out what the current draw is when both are operated and as said replace it with a blade fuse holder (resetable type)

              Ian.
              Hi Ian, when my windows reach the top or the bottom of their travel the motor cuts off immediately, is it the thermal cut out thats doing that. Only in the bible it says the cut out operates in the event the motor is overloaded

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Staggard View Post
                Hi Ian, when my windows reach the top or the bottom of their travel the motor cuts off immediately, is it the thermal cut out thats doing that. Only in the bible it says the cut out operates in the event the motor is overloaded

                My understanding Graham is the thermal trip is the cut out (if needed in an over current situation) . Never had a window motor apart but I don't think there is anything in it to that effect.

                Ian.
                Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by milothedog View Post
                  My understanding Graham is the thermal trip is the cut out (if needed in an over current situation) . Never had a window motor apart but I don't think there is anything in it to that effect.

                  Ian.
                  I am going to take the parcel shelf out this afternoon so I'll bypass it and see what happens. I did mine about three years ago but I can't remember mind you I spent 15mins last night looking for the bathroom so no surprise there. Nobody laugh or you know what will happen

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have removed my thermal cut out and opened it up to find the PO has solderd it up so it's not that is cutting the motor when the window reaches it's limit.IMG_0333.JPG

                    IMG_0332.JPG

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Are you sure it cut's out and is not just physically being stopped by the frame? have you had a meter on the motor when it stops?

                      Ian
                      Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I don't believe there is a limit switch to stop the motor at each end of the travel. There is a physical stop at each end that stalls the motor and it relies on you to get your finger off the switch to switch off the stalled current!

                        I guess the thermal device is just for safety in case the finger doesn't get removed or a switch fails. A normal fuse will work just as well (but will need replacing) as will a more modern resettable fuse.

                        Cheers,
                        Mike.
                        Mine since 1987. Finished a 20+ year rebuild in 2012. One of many Triumphs and a 1949 LandRover!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Mike Stevens View Post
                          I don't believe there is a limit switch to stop the motor at each end of the travel. There is a physical stop at each end that stalls the motor and it relies on you to get your finger off the switch to switch off the stalled current!

                          I guess the thermal device is just for safety in case the finger doesn't get removed or a switch fails. A normal fuse will work just as well (but will need replacing)
                          as will a more modern resettable fuse.
                          Cheers,
                          Mike.

                          Modern resettable blade fuses are quite reliable if they are of good quality, all new chassis at work were fitted with them by the body builders and they never were a problem

                          Ian.
                          Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I have now and you are dead right. I have put a amp meter across the cut out contacts and with one window operating it draws approx 3.5 amps when the window reaches it's travel it goes up to 8amps so it does not break contact it basically jammes the motor.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by milothedog View Post
                              Modern resettable blade fuses are quite reliable if they are of good quality, all new chassis at work were fitted with them by the body builders and they never were a problem
                              Agreed. We use a lot of them in electronic design. Much lower current rating though!

                              Cheers,
                              Mike.
                              Mine since 1987. Finished a 20+ year rebuild in 2012. One of many Triumphs and a 1949 LandRover!

                              Comment

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