wheel bearings: how much play is acceptable?

[Escape]

When we first got our Stag, I noticed quite a bit of play on both front wheel bearings. This wasn’t apparent when driving, the car was very stable even at high speeds (I drove +100miles highway when bringing her home). But I could feel and hear the bearings move when inspecting the car on the lift. Because of the low cost I immediately replaced them with 2 new sets.
Yesterday I again had the Stag on the lift (chasing a small oil leak) and on a hunch checked the bearings again. Although not as bad as at first, the left front does have play once again, after only about 1000km. I thought maybe the bearings had settled or the races hadn’t been seated properly, so tried to adjust. I can get the wheel to turn smoothly and without play, but I cannot lock the castellated nut in that position. When slacked off to the previous (as per the ROM), there is some of play. When I tighten it to the next position, I feel there is too much resistance. With only 5 positions, the adjustment isn’t very fine in my opinion. How much play is acceptable? Most previous vehicles I worked on (Land Rover, Lotus, VW) always had to be set up with no noticeable play, but I remember the pre-assembled bearings for my Ifor Williams cartrailer also had a bit of play when cold.
Any advice welcome!

Thanks,

Filip

[milothedog]

Filip,

You may find that the shoulder that the inner bearing butts against is worn or the D washer on the outer may be grooved from the bearings running live and this is limiting how much adjustment you can get. You could think about this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-2000-2-5PI-MK1-MK2-STAG-GT6-FRONT-HUB-BEARING-SPACER-KIT-/141192471714?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph%7CModel%3AStag&hash=item20dfba24a2

I intend to go down this route in the future.

Ian.

[Escape]

Thanks for the quick reply Ian! I do remember the upgrade kit with the shims you mention, and have just spent some time re-reading those post on here. I didn't remember or had the time to do a search this morning, and would like to get the car back on the road as soon as possible, hence the direct question.
I am however not convinced the play I am feeling is actually between the bearings and the stubaxle. I'll look into it to be sure.
Another solution that came to mind, is to fit a different washer. As said, I am able to adjust the bearings without play and with the wheel still spinning freely, it's just that this does not correspond to one of the positions to lock the castellated nut. With a different washer, it might just work. If it doesn't, I'll have to get the kit above. Interestingly, old Land Rover used a similar system with adjustment of the wheel bearings by tightening a nut and then locking it, but used a deformable locking washer instead of a pin thus giving endless locking positions. Later ones used a spacer as in the kit above (actually different spacers, as no shims were available), before switching to pre-assembled bearings (that are only sold installed in the hub). At least with the older systems, you could always do a roadside repair, leaving the spacer out if need be.

Filip

[milothedog]

Thanks for the quick reply Ian! I do remember the upgrade kit with the shims you mention, and have just spent some time re-reading those post on here. I didn't remember or had the time to do a search this morning, and would like to get the car back on the road as soon as possible, hence the direct question.
I am however not convinced the play I am feeling is actually between the bearings and the stubaxle. I'll look into it to be sure.
Another solution that came to mind, is to fit a different washer. As said, I am able to adjust the bearings without play and with the wheel still spinning freely, it's just that this does not correspond to one of the positions to lock the castellated nut. With a different washer, it might just work. If it doesn't, I'll have to get the kit above. Interestingly, old Land Rover used a similar system with adjustment of the wheel bearings by tightening a nut and then locking it, but used a deformable locking washer instead of a pin thus giving endless locking positions. Later ones used a spacer as in the kit above (actually different spacers, as no shims were available), before switching to pre-assembled bearings (that are only sold installed in the hub). At least with the older systems, you could always do a roadside repair, leaving the spacer out if need be.

Filip

What I was trying to get a cross was that if the bearing spins on the stub axle it's inner part wears away whatever it is in contact with.

Not the stub axle shaft although that can happen. I like the idea of the kit as it eliminates Pad knock off allowing for a better brake pedal.

Ian

[Motorsport Micky]

This will sell the kit if nothing will, ALL THE RACERS USE THE KIT or derivatives of it.

As Ian says the kit helps prevent the bearing spinning and wearing out other components on the stub axle and also helps eliminate Pad knock off, which saves the race driver left foot braking down the straight (I still do, it confuses chasing cars as they can't tell when you have actually jumped on the brakes), but if you want a worthwhile mod rather than other bling you can fit to your car fit this.

Micky

[Klaus Schlueter]

Filip,
I had the same problem which you described with the castellated nut. The solution with a different washer thickness worked perfectly and the wheel bearing play didn't change since years.

Klaus

[stagbeetle2012]

I believe the Stag is designed to run with a *little* play on the front wheel bearings and I have certainly had MOT passes like this, due to the issues with the castellated nut; but if there is a noticeable clonk when shaking the wheel or any sort of roughness or noise from the bearings it won't pass, hope that helps, Andy

[Escape]

Thanks again for all the response!

I tried with a different washer and am now satisfied with the result, no noticeable play and a smooth turning wheel. Should the play return, I'll fit a spacer and shims.

Filip