Temperature sender stuck

[stag888]

Hi,
Need to take out the temperature sender , recently fitted , but the temp is reading low, so I'm keen to test it . The threaded retainer - no problem , however the actual sender seems stuck firm , I've so far tried whilst cold juggling it , and tried to get a grip with some pliers , but no luck . Am worried as the real only thing to hold onto is the cable , and I don't want to damage that . Does anyone have any experience or advise ? .
Cheers
Steve

[stag888]

It just dawned on me ,use the natural forces of the engine , what I'll do is loosen off the retaining bolt half way and run the engine up to temperature, the water under pressure , almost certainly will find it's way past and the pressure although not great could force the sender upward . Add to that expansion from the heat . Seems to make sense in theory , I'll give it a go .
Cheers
Steve

[Staggard]

It just dawned on me ,use the natural forces of the engine , what I'll do is loosen off the retaining bolt half way and run the engine up to temperature, the water under pressure , almost certainly will find it's way past and the pressure although not great could force the sender upward . Add to that expansion from the heat . Seems to make sense in theory , I'll give it a go .
Cheers
Steve

Be very very careful

[Mike Stevens]

Hi Steve,

I don't understand 'threaded retainer'.

I thought the temperature sender was a one piece affair which unscrewed as one. You mentioned a wire so presumably don't have a capilliary type, so it must be an after market sender?

You also state 'sending the sensor upwards'. Doesn't it go into the housing from the side?

By any chance, does your fuel gauge also read low? They are both supplied from the same stabilised 10V supply.

I'm obviously missing something here!

Cheers,
Mike.

[stag888]

Mike ,
The unit I have is genuine capillary oil / water Smiths unit , the sender is seperate and is kept in place by a threaded plug/ retainer , with a hole in the centre through which the wire / coiled capillary is threaded through . Appreciate the danger of the pressure , hence the plan just to loosen the retailer a couple of turns , giving it just enough room to create a leak & the break the seal between the sender and the head . The sender on mine is fitted almost vertically at the left rear of the right hand head next to the coil . I do see it as being something I'll need to take care with , incremental heat , with bonnet open , last thing I want to do is blast the sender through the bonnet , stripping the tread as it goes .
If anyone has a better idea , am keen to try it first .
Cheers
Steve

[404ROD]

Does this help? It is a Smith's dual gauge and this is the temperature sender.

Rod

IMG_1580a.jpg

[stag888]

Yes , that's sort of the type , the shoulders on my sender are slightly wider , but basically the same , and the bolt has a threaded end about 10mm in depth and screws into the head .The issue is that the sender sits 10 mm below the surface and so is very difficult /impossible to get a purchase on with pliers, and I don't want to get too enthusiastic for fear of damaging the capillary / wire , When I took the previous one out , I just pulled out with fingers - no problem. I think in my eagerness to avoid any leaks I may have over tightened it when I put it in . still counting on the engine heat / water pressure loosening it - shall give it a go this weekend .
Steve

[404ROD]

Once releasing the securing nut you should see the back of the sender from the lip back to the tube. The bit nearest the tube has a couple of flats on opposite sides - you can see one in the photo. Are you able to get a spanner or grippers to it and twist the sender? This part of the sender looks to be brass and so could easily be damaged. If it has disappeared into the transfer housing at the back of the cylinder head then the nut must have been given a real good tightening.

Rod IMG_1580b.jpg

[stag888]

Rod
Like a lot of these things , it's having the right tool , the combination pliers are too wide , and the long nose really too fine a point to get a good grip , am going to get a pair of long nose with a wider tip , have seen them about . you're right the brass will just deform if I don't get it right first time . Roll on Saturday morning.
Cheers
Steve

[DJT]

Have you looked at removing the transfer housing? It is possible, if a little time consuming. I had to do it a while back when I stupidly cross-threaded a new temperature sender whilst changing it. A 10-minute job I'd done for someone else turned into a 2-hour job on my own car.......

[jleyton]

Have you looked at removing the transfer housing? It is possible, if a little time consuming. .

A very good idea from Dave there (as to be expected). I got mine off pretty easily but just one word of warning - there is one bolt in the centre of the housing that can be hidden from view. IIRC there are five bolts in total

Cheers

Julian

[GDPR]

Yep - five bolts Julian, and that centre one is often forgotten by me when I'm in a hurry....

[jleyton]

Blimey If you can forget, what hope is there for mere mortals like us

Cheers

Julian

[GDPR]

Fallability increases with age and general mental decline - much as I try, I seem to have no effect on either!

[DJT]

Fallability increases with age and general mental decline - much as I try, I seem to have no effect on either!

You are not alone........