Softtop erection and fitting

[stag8manod]

I need some advice please. When erecting the softtop it is very difficult to get the front section to reach forward enough to easily engage the front locking pins. It is doable now with a lot of pushing, shoving and muttering. It shouldn't be this tight. The car has only just come back on the road after too many years off but the hood was always up. Is there any adjustment to gain me say 5mm more reach?
Thankyou in advance.
Cheers Ian A

[jleyton]

Hi Ian,

Are you doing the front before the back ?

The best fitting technique varies between cars however if my rear pin is locked then I can't get the front to fit.

I fit the front first and then, with a mighty slam, lock the back pin in place to give me a nice taught roof.

I'm sure others will be along with other comments with things like 'get the hood wet and let it stand like that'. Also the hood only has three fixing bolts per side so you can do some adjustment but that needs to be done carefully to avoid making it worse.

Good luck.

Cheers

Julian

[Motorsport Micky]

+1

Because the front rail connects on either side in my experience you don't have a chance of doing it single handed if you fix the back first. As recommended by Julian lock the front bar in place first and then slam the rear rail down which leaves you with a taut roof.

Micky

[Staggard]

As Julian Say's I pull the hood up, shut the cover and then release the two clips to take the weight off fix the front then with the good old slam method lock the rear pin zip up the the panel, Bob's your Uncle. I usually have to push the chrome leaver back as it doesn't like doing that on it's own.Graham

[stag8manod]

Thanks for the replies guys. The problem is trying to get the front header rail latches to reach forward enough to get the pins to enter far enough into the header rail so the front leavers can be turned and pull the hood down the last bit and lock the hood down. This when the rear section of the hood is still folded up against the B pillar as it should be. When I have finally got the front locked down the rear section can be unlatched and shut down with the plunger engaging easily.
Cheers Ian A

[Westfaling]

Ian
Is something stopping the hood frame sitting flush/tight to the back of the B pillars when you raise it? If it all seems good it may be that the hood material has shrunk. Not sure off there's a way to stretch it. Maybe if you get the hood up wet it and take it for a high speed run??
Nick

[Staggard]

Thanks for the replies guys. The problem is trying to get the front header rail latches to reach forward enough to get the pins to enter far enough into the header rail so the front leavers can be turned and pull the hood down the last bit and lock the hood down. This when the rear section of the hood is still folded up against the B pillar as it should be. When I have finally got the front locked down the rear section can be unlatched and shut down with the plunger engaging easily.
Cheers Ian A

Mine is the same, that's why I unlatch the rear section before locating the front section on the pins, and if I have read it correctly Julian doe's the same. Graham

[Motorsport Micky]

I find that loosening the Velcro around the door opening frame so that the material isn't pinned either side allows a few mm more movement and that's all that's necessary to allow the header bar to lock into position if the rear of the frame isn't locked in place first. Then of course the Velcro needs refixing when the frame is locked in position front and rear.

Micky

[Stagnant]

Hi Ian A.

Pretty much as above for me, but I find leaving the doors open makes a big difference.

Cheers, Mark.

[Stagnant]

Actually, while I'm here, my rubber seals between the tops of the doors and the soft-top were so thick and hard ( ! ) that they forced the door tops outwards.
I bought some new ones from Paddocks that are marginally better, but does anyone know who sells nice soft ones that won't distort the door frame?

Cheers, Mark.

[DJT]

Actually, while I'm here, my rubber seals between the tops of the doors and the soft-top were so thick and hard ( ! ) that they forced the door tops outwards.
I bought some new ones from Paddocks that are marginally better, but does anyone know who sells nice soft ones that won't distort the door frame?

Cheers, Mark.

No. I've asked this question of SOCTFL before. Along with the front/rear hard top seals, the originals were of a cellular foam construction, but the aftermarket ones are monofilament and too hard.

[Stagnant]

No. I've asked this question of SOCTFL before. Along with the front/rear hard top seals, the originals were of a cellular foam construction, but the aftermarket ones are monofilament and too hard.

Dave, did the SOCTFL come up with any response?
I'm going to have a look at other makes of car and see if I can find anything similar (unless some one's been down that road before and I'm wasting my time....)

Cheers,
Mark.

[DJT]

Dave, did the SOCTFL come up with any response?
I'm going to have a look at other makes of car and see if I can find anything similar (unless some one's been down that road before and I'm wasting my time....)

Cheers,
Mark.

Not in a positive way......

[Stagnant]

Actually, while I'm here, my rubber seals between the tops of the doors and the soft-top were so thick and hard ( ! ) that they forced the door tops outwards.
I bought some new ones from Paddocks that are marginally better, but does anyone know who sells nice soft ones that won't distort the door frame?

Cheers, Mark.

In case this helps anyone, last summer I bought some generic 'D' profile cellular foam strip from eBay and I can report that after nearly a year it has stayed in place, been wind and water proof, and allows the doors/soft top to both be closed without any distortion. And all for £6:99 !

221678849407

This isn't the same seller as I used, and I can't remember what dimensions I bought, but it's the same stuff. You get the idea!

Hope this helps someone

Cheers, Mark.

[V Mad]

Hi Mark
That rubber seal doesnt have a foot that goes into the seal retainer channel, it looks like it is a stick on type?