Advice and encouragement please.

[Bandit1200]

My '76 Stag has covered only 35k miles since new and presents the following:

1. Excessive play in R/N/S bearings.
2. Occasional grabbing of rear brake(s)
3. Leaking diff.

I recently removed the R/N/S brake drum to reveal a seized wheel cylinder and hand brake mechanism. It was evident that this was the first time that the drum had been removed.
The car passed its MOT in July with only comment of wheel bearing play.

In anticipation of having to repair both sides I have purchased a reconditioned half shaft from Fitchetts to address the bearing play (I don't want to get involved with 100 ton presses), replacement wheel cylinders, handbrake levers, 12 x new nyloc nuts for the bearing housing to trailing arms, lever boots and handbrake cable. I also intend to grease the splines on the R/O/S half shaft and have bought a replacement spline boot. I have also bought a new handbrake cable with attachments.

I am torn between "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and the "do it all right first time at the same time" positions.

You have guessed that I am torn between doing each side independently or dropping the whole shooting match and refurbing the whole assembly to a standard which I have admired on attached photos on the Forum.

My limitations are that I am working in a single garage with a single parking space, my physical strength and flexibility is diminished by a recent operation and I live in rural Shropshire, many miles from classic civilisation. I am confident of tackling the change of half shaft and wheel cylinders BUT is the dropping of assembly that much more of a task? I have trolley jacks, wheel chocks etc.

As always, ALL comments and advice gratefully received.
Regards
Steve

[Richard G]

I found dropping the complete subframe quite easy with jacks, and replaced it minus the trailing arms, fitted later although bit of a squeeze to fit the new bushes into brackets.
One thing leads to another if you take out the whole subframe you can check everything.

My new half shafts have grease nipples but the inner one is impossible to grease as it is up inside the tunnel of arm.

I am now starting on the front suspension.

[davidf]

The half-shafts come out through the hub, even easier when you have removed the brake shoes. None of the work you describe on the half-shafts or brakes would be made any easier by removing the rear sub-frame.

You mention a leaking diff, but not where it is leaking. If you want to do anything else, like change bushes, then it can be worth removing the whole sub-frame. On the other hand, it is possible to remove the diff from the sub-frame without removing the sub-frame from the car, but on refitting, you have to be very careful of the new front seal.

[therat04]

My '76 Stag has covered only 35k miles since new and presents the following:

1. Excessive play in R/N/S bearings.
2. Occasional grabbing of rear brake(s)
3. Leaking diff.

I recently removed the R/N/S brake drum to reveal a seized wheel cylinder and hand brake mechanism. It was evident that this was the first time that the drum had been removed.
The car passed its MOT in July with only comment of wheel bearing play.

In anticipation of having to repair both sides I have purchased a reconditioned half shaft from Fitchetts to address the bearing play (I don't want to get involved with 100 ton presses), replacement wheel cylinders, handbrake levers, 12 x new nyloc nuts for the bearing housing to trailing arms, lever boots and handbrake cable. I also intend to grease the splines on the R/O/S half shaft and have bought a replacement spline boot. I have also bought a new handbrake cable with attachments.

I am torn between "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and the "do it all right first time at the same time" positions.

You have guessed that I am torn between doing each side independently or dropping the whole shooting match and refurbing the whole assembly to a standard which I have admired on attached photos on the Forum.

My limitations are that I am working in a single garage with a single parking space, my physical strength and flexibility is diminished by a recent operation and I live in rural Shropshire, many miles from classic civilisation. I am confident of tackling the change of half shaft and wheel cylinders BUT is the dropping of assembly that much more of a task? I have trolley jacks, wheel chocks etc.

As always, ALL comments and advice gratefully received.
Regards
Steve

Hello Steve i am a definite if aint broke don't fix it merchant, i purchased my stag to use and enjoy so its no use to me in the garage, if something breaks then i fix it, if i hear a rattle or clunk i check it out if i cant find it then i forget it, there are to many stags on here that spend to much time being pulled to bits in my opinion and having said that i can see the logic of while its out i can do this and i can do that but then the weeks off the road turn into months as other little problems are found.
My advice for what its worth Steve is fix the immediate problem and use it, you sound as if you are capable of repairing your stag so it should not present any problems to you if something else breaks.
Hope it all goes well good luck....Steve

[scraggs]

For the sake of 4 more nuts I would drop the whole lot. Differential needs to come out to do the seals. Probably jiggle pin hole ( breather) that's blocked causing pressure to build if so the oil is forced passed the seals. If you are doing one seal do the three. Like it's been said when putting it all back do so without the trailing arms and assays. I would also use polly bushes on the trailing arms because if you are not using a press they are so much easier to put in.

[Bandit1200]

Like it's been said when putting it all back do so without the trailing arms and assays.
???

[staginhiding]

Dropping the whole lot on your own Steve can be done but much easier if there are a couple of you..
As you are limited on space,I would do what you need to at the moment(bearing play and brakes) and enjoy the Summer.
Check the diff breather as Russ suggested and top it up if its not a serious leak..

Then over the Winter you can drop the lot and do the rest in your own time..

Sam

[Ian F]

Steve
have done both, dropped whole subframe, replaced diff, new bushes, shocks and hub bearings with rislan coated shafts etc. Definitely better as a 2-man job (thanks to Stuart who is no longer with the Stag club). I am now doing rear shoes, adjusting the bearings, greasing the driveshafts etc., but one side at a time and without dropping the diff.

i would agree with the do what needs doing approach for now, hub removal is easy enough, so is rear shoes etc., and clearing the breather will help the diff, if not cure the leak. The oil acts as a rustproofer as well.

If you get stuck, there is always help on here.

ian F

[Mike Stevens]

It's worth checking where the diff is leaking from and how much. Leaking points are the front seal (easy ish to do) side seals (easy to remove the shaft, not easy to replace the seal without a big press!) and the rear cover gasket.

If your leak is not bad, I'd just change the drive shaft while the brake shoes are off (easy and not heavy), refit all and enjoy the car. Also check the jiggle pin (RHS of the diff on top at the back). Using the car may also help with a seal leak anyway! At the end of the summer re-evaluate leaks etc and decide then!

It's all very easy when you're typing on a keyboard!

Whatever, do not let the diff run too low on oil. That will not do the CWP teeth any good - or your day!

Cheers,
Mike.

[mike@thenook]

Steve,

It 's a tricky job to drop the lot if you are short on strengh/help and I would say not really needed given yiour apparent problems - do the shaft and brakes all easy and check the breather as others have said - if you have an mot and there is only 35k on the clock i'd leave the bushes etc until you really need to do them, yes the silicone's are an improvement but it is not an easy job to get the old ones out and you would be creating work from a relatively minor bit of maintenance - do what s needed and enjoy driving the old girl in the sunshine - May we are told is going to be scorcher!

Cheers!

[Nambo]

My diff appeared to be leaking from the bottom bolt that holds the nose on, I wrapped PTFE tape around it and now it doesn't leak!

[Gresley]

Hi Steve,

FWIW I replaced my rear wheel bearings (with rebuilt hubs) one at as time as and when the bearings wore out. Bizarrely this was only a few months apart though!

Brian.

[Bandit1200]

Thanks All for your comments and advice which has helped me to focus on jobs necessary to enjoy the sunny months of the year.
I'll take stock in the Autumn and hope to have regained full strength and mobility by then.
Thanks again
Steve