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Sequence: Water in Vee, Red Line temp and Steam

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    Sequence: Water in Vee, Red Line temp and Steam

    Complacency!

    I had got used to the sight of a bit of water in the vee, some might say an acceptable amount, its not uncommon, is it?

    Yesterday, after a week of trouble free daily use, I glanced down to the temp gauge to see the needle in the red! Stopping at our destination shortly afterwards and letting the engine cool for a while I added a couple of pints of water via the top hose plug. There's only a limited number of pint glasses of water a pub feels inclined to offer on a busy Good Friday, so we continued on our way to find the nearest garage with a tap. At the point of finding one I'm afraid the temp gauge was again in the red and on opening the bonnet there was no water in the vee, there was copious amounts of steam!
    Letting the engine cool again I added what seemed an awful lot of water, brimming the hose plug. Suffice to say, we got home under our own steam, pardon the pun, with the temp gauge remaining in mid range, the engine ran well but I know something is amiss.

    What to do now?

    At leased, I have to find where the water/steam leak was and how much worse it may have got. I have my suspicions that its from the inlet manifold gaskets. I hope so anyway as its the easiest to access, next option is the water pump in its useless position and worst case from the head gasket/s.

    On a previous attempt to find the source of a more obvious leak I employed the services of a endoscope, it didn't find it. With the engine running, its impossible, even with mini lights and dentist's mirrors to see anything. Stripping the engine down destroys the evidence of a leak, so all you end up doing is replacing seals and gaskets hoping that next time you've done a better job of sealing up the works!

    This time as the engine is still running I'm first going to try to use a marker dye to provide evidence of the leak's location and path. Has anyone else used this method and what was your experience?

    Regards
    John4D

    #2
    John
    Dry the engine and sprinkle talcum powder around suspect joints. If this doesn't identify source(s) of leaks at least your engine will smell good.
    Steve

    Comment


      #3
      Have you no way of pressurizing the cooling system that my help to see where its coming from. There was some posts a little while ago, Julian made up an adapter with some form of stirrup pump that he had left over from fire duty

      Comment


        #4
        I had a similar problem last week after rebuilding my engine I had water in the V and could not see where it was coming from. I eventually used a claw retrieval tool like this

        I had the car slightly raised at the front (by virtue of my sloping driveway), then I used small screwed up wads of paper on the end of the claw to explore under the carbs and manifold, moving from front to back and a bit further into the V each time before inspecting the paper for wetness. Using this method I determined it was not coming from the inlet manifolds but was coming from the drain slot of the water pump. I replaced the pump this week with a recon one and all is now dry.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Staggard View Post
          Have you no way of pressurizing the cooling system that my help to see where its coming from. There was some posts a little while ago, Julian made up an adapter with some form of stirrup pump that he had left over from fire duty
          What a memory Graham

          Yep, this is it and I reckon any bicycle pump would do.

          Cheers

          Julian

          DSCN1898.jpg

          Comment


            #6
            One thing that i have seen go on a few Stag engines and cause this issue is a core plug rusting out in the inlet manifold. Impossible to see as it on the underside, only cost about £1 to replace but the inlet has to come off which is a pain, big pain. I have seen them filled, as a temp repair, with body filler but emetal would be better and last slightly longer.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bullstarz View Post
              One thing that i have seen go on a few Stag engines and cause this issue is a core plug rusting out in the inlet manifold. Impossible to see as it on the underside, only cost about £1 to replace but the inlet has to come off which is a pain, big pain. I have seen them filled, as a temp repair, with body filler but emetal would be better and last slightly longer.
              Funny you should mention that, the first Stag engine that I rebuilt had body filler in the inlet manifold core plug.

              Neil
              Neil
              TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

              Comment


                #8
                So, no one's used a marker dye then?
                I'll let you know my findings.
                John4D

                Comment

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