I give up!!!

[Stagsongas]

Alastair,

From your earlier post it seemed you had no spark. Is that still the case? It makes a huge difference to diagnosis!

If you still have no spark that's the route you need to follow. If you have a spark and overly rich mixture then I'd go with Neil's suggestion, a sticky float valve could easily be the cause. Too much fuel going itno the engine puts the fire out, and fits in with those sooty plugs.

Good Luck

Steve

[jakesmig]

#13

[Hettiherald]

Check the terminal block where the ign switch loom joins the main loom under the dash, just on top of the steering column. I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be a bad contact there. The other problem area is down by the bulkhead in the engine bay near the starter motor, very hot, and brittle wiring can also lead to an intermittent problem.
Dave

[KOY 23]

#13

Puddles of fuel in manifold were normal on the Holley and Weber carbs I had. I never thought it was right. Can't remember if it occurred with Strommies.

[arriva1]

I needed one of these about 10 months ago to solve intermittent stating and cutting out :

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-218500

Trev

[Staggard]

We had a simmilar problem recently recommissioning a friends Midget, turned out it was flooding into the manifold and a puddle offuel was just sitting there.

I had this problem, even though the needle valves were OK and the float levels spot on fuel was siphoning in to the manifold causing a hot starting problem, so I fitted a pressure relief valve that opened when the ign was off thus releasing pressure in the fuel line. Problem solved

[Stagsongas]

A very shrewd move that

[KOY 23]

I had this problem, even though the needle valves were OK and the float levels spot on fuel was siphoning in to the manifold causing a hot starting problem, so I fitted a pressure relief valve that opened when the ign was off thus releasing pressure in the fuel line. Problem solved

Easy way to do this was proposed by Mike (Lingen) Put a T piece into outlet from the pump. Run a pipe from branch of T into blanked off pipe at top of tank. The pipe should have a restrictor, I find a 0.6mm MIG welder tip is ideal.

[stag36587]

Looking at other threads sounds like many people have similar fuel pressure - is the welding tip just an interference fit in the flexible pipe fom the t-piece? Sounds a good idea.

[KOY 23]

Yes on the pipe I used but a hose clip tightened over it will hold it in place.

Just to clarify, this mod is to help hot starting issues by dumping the fuel pressure when the engine is turned off. See Graham's post #21. It is not meant to regulate the fuel pump pressure.

[stag36587]

Yes on the pipe I used but a hose clip tightened over it will hold it in place.

Just to clarify, this mod is to help hot starting issues by dumping the fuel pressure when the engine is turned off. See Graham's post #21. It is not meant to regulate the fuel pump pressure.

OK great, I'll certainly give that a try

Thanks

[Dalek]

I had a problem last weekend.
My fault was a dirty connection on the ignition control fuse. Which supplies the to the power electronic ignition no power no spark.
hope this helps.
Harry.

[stag36587]

Just a quick update on my woes as I have had very little time on the car this week.

The other morning I went to start the car from cold - the fuel pump ticked over rapidly as normal but took much longer than it usually does to stop - I normally wait until it stops before turning the key. Car started ok.

Later I went to start the car again. This time the ticking didn't stop at all and only did so when I had started the car.

Does this suggest an air lock somewhere in the fuel system? I had this once before with a previous manual fuel pump (current one is electronic) and I used to have to disconnect one banjo (lower one if I remember correctly) then turn starter until fuel flowed again.

As ever all ideas appreciated.

Thanks