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Mods note: Hi Peter, I saw your thread was locked, but your post is obviously inviting replies, so I have opened it up for you. If that isn't what you wanted, drop me a pm.
Hi Peter and welcome.
Chemical dipping often has problems afterwards. Tiny amounts of the chemical is sometimes trapped in seams and folds and after the car is painted will leak out, and cause bubbling or blistering of the paintwork at a later date.
The only dipping process I would ever consider is the one where they electroplate the whole panel or bodyshell immediately afterwards.['e-plating'] This is reputedly very good but expensive [several thousand for a whole shell]
For blasting, the best I believe is plastic media blasting.
I have heard good and not so good accounts of soda blasting, and I think technique, preparation and after treatment is what counts here.
I think a good start would be to look on the internet to see how people prepare their Ferrari and similar priced classics for restoration.
What you don't want is a very expensive bare metal repaint being ruined by incorrect preperation.
Just my thoughts.
Good luck with your restoration,
Dave.
I've been quoted the following, any thoughts? Of course I would need to do all the welding in between, but I should end up with a body shell good for many years.
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With the Triumph Stag we recommend that the doors are crossbraced for extra support and the T-Bar in the roof may need drilling for drainage.
Assuming the parts to be all steel with no aluminium present the cost to process your Triumph Stag would be as follows:
To chemically clean the bodyshell including the Boot Lid, Bonnet & Doors - £845.00
We recommend that you have your shell chemically stripped of all coatings, take it away and do your weld repair work and then return the shell to us for the zinc phosphate primer. If you choose this route you will get surface rust on the shell whilst carrying out your repair work, however, we would then carry out a de-rust process before coating your shell.
To de-rust the bodyshell to clean surface rust and contamination - £450.00
To electrophoretic coating on the panelwork - £300.00 (this covers standard panelwork on a car i.e. 2 doors, bonnet and boot lid)
To electrophoretic coating on bodyshell - £1450.00
All prices are subject to VAT at the prevailing rate
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Which would make it around £3654 all in. Then painting - whats the cost of painting a body shell, doors, bonnet and boot?
Cheers
Hi
I have recently had by bodytub from a TR6 media blasted. IT cost £550 to get done, I had to get all the seam sealer and underseal off. it was then etch primed. the plan now is to do what welding needs doing and then just prime and paint as normal. I certainly wouldn't bother with the other processes as the way I see it is that the car now will be a lot better than new especially with modern paint systems, The way I am doing my bodytub is the same as a TR specialist (CTM ) does there resto jobs.
hope that's of some help
Len
Thanks for all the replies so far. A bit more flesh on the bones. I enjoy watching the classic car restoration programmes, "Car SOS" and more recently "For the Love of Cars" where I've just seen the Stag episode (just spent two weeks on business in the US, so catching up on my telly!)
It seems quite common to use this chemical cleaning process. I know it is expensive, but it certainly seems to reveal all the horrors. I have been working on my Stag on and off for over 5 years. I have one outer sill removed and I know I need to replace the driver's floor pan, patch the inner sill then replace the outer. The other side is similar and the wheel arches leave an amount to be desired. I've also found (on the one sill I've done) rather a lot of filler.....
So, my logic was to get it to a bodyshell, then clean it right back. I will know the enormity of the task, but it will be easier to repair as all things are exposed. I could carry on the way I am going, but I feel I'd just be repairing one thing after another (the "Painting the Forth Bridge Syndrome", but at the same time, my work is so unpredictable (in the last 9 weeks I've had 2 x 2week trips to the US on business) and I also breed, show and judge Clumber Spaniels, let alone time spent maintaining the family fleet and DIY! So once it's done, I just don't want it going rusty again as I find I don't have any time to weld it up!
At the same time, I love the Stag and I want to do as good a restoration as possible. So, I'm looking for the option that will let me see the true horror of what I've got, but protect it so it doesn't get any worse whilst I take my time repairing.
I know it sounds like a bit of a whinge, it's not intended to come across that way.
It's my decision to have the dogs (and in fact to judge) and in fact its one of the ways I spend time with my wife. In fact I recently sold my P5B as it wasn't getting used enough and I felt it better that someone else have it and drive it than it rusting away in a garage.
So, sorry for the ramble, soda blast or chemical etch. What protection afterwards?
If it's your car you want rather than buying in a less rusted example from the States then maybe don't dip it. The acid stripping works but as some others have said may leave traces in the seams which you cannot get to. By now you know the Stag shell is like an iceberg lettuce with layers of panels which as you peel one away reveals another, lots of places for the mixture to be trapped.
Also the acid will strip anything which isn't metal off the car, that includes rust, filler and also lead loading. If there are any leaded and blended areas completed at the factory (I'm not sure the factory was doing this in the 70s) you'll leave the material in the tank.
Check out Ribble Technology in Lancashire who do thermal stripping, as the name suggests the shell is heated up to about 600 deg (check out the temps on their website, I may be wrong) and all non metallic material burns off, underseal, paint etc and they then derust and stabilise any rust present, can't remember how. I believe a TR comes out at under a grand including the loose panels, and various other processes are then availableat extra cost, paint dipping etc to give you a primed phosphated shell ready for the final bodyshop painting.
If the Stag is only to receive sporadic attention from yourself (sounds like it) I should avoid stripping before any of these processes above. It will rust quite heavily and my plan is to strip paint on the shell locally by torch or stripper to allow welding and repair, and patch primer (Bondarust primer) to prevent much heavy rusting whilst the rest is completed. Then thermally strip the shell have it phosphated and into the paintshop for finishing.
I believe there are firms in the south that will offer Thermal stripping if you don't fancy a trip to Lancs.
As an alternative to Ribble Technology there is EnviroStrip in Staffordshire who also offer Pyrolysis as it's called (heating the bugger up until paint either flames off or it goes brittle and drops off ) which is then followed by a Derust and then a Protective coating and then finally 2Pack Etch primer. They apparently have videos on You tube of the process, http://www.youtube.com/user/EnviroSt...?feature=watch where you can get a better idea.
I have no connection with either firm and only know of them because I'm researching using them myself.
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