DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL - BIT OF A CONUNDRUM! thoughts please folks

[BartonStag]

Hi all,
I'm sure this has probably been covered previously .... but! Must be having another of my "slow" days coz I'm clearly missing something here. Basically need to remove the drive shafts from the trailing arms and brake back plate assembly. According to the manual strip off the rear shoes and remove the six nylocs and remove the shaft. Surely the centre large nyloc has to come off to allow the removal of the driveshaft? The thing is, the next sections picture and description shows the setting up of end float on the drive shafts complete with the six studded back plate AND the rear wheel hub all attached. Please excuse my stupidity here folks but can anyone please explain what I'm missing here??

As ever thanks in advance

Gord

[stagmuffin]

hi gord the rom is correct this is what you do to remove the shaft ,it will separate from the shorter section via the splines .if you wish to strip the shafts for rebuild then you will need to remove the nut and the use of a hydraulic press will be required. if you look in my albums of got an album which has pics depicting the process.
steve

[73stagman]

You can separate the drive shafts as Stagmuffin says.
But if you take the bolts out from the back plate and the drive flange on the diff, the rear bearing housing, hub assembly and drive shaft can be withdrawn through the trailing arm. probably the back plate will come too but that can be removed with a slight tap with a hammer. The back plate is trapped between the bearing housing and the trailing arm mounting face. It can be fitted over the six studs when refitting it all and the bearing housing has a machined centring ring to make sure it all lines up properly with the back plate. The drive shaft assembly slides through the trailing arm then the drive flanges can be reassembled
DONT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS ON THE ENDS OF THOSE SIX STUDS. Check the threads in the trailing arms are in VERY good condition!

[BartonStag]

Steve, thanks for the info - where and how do I access your album concerning this particular bit?
Cheers
Gord

[BartonStag]

You can separate the drive shafts as Stagmuffin says.
But if you take the bolts out from the back plate and the drive flange on the diff, the rear bearing housing, hub assembly and drive shaft can be withdrawn through the trailing arm. They

Hi Neil,
you could be talking yourself into a job on June 1st if you're not careful!! The diff has been separated and the six nylocs on the back plate removed - is that what you're referring to? I'm still scratting with this.
Cheers
Gord

[wilf]

Gord - you can (just) get the driveshafts out without removing the brake shoes. I have done it that way.

[BartonStag]

Gord - you can (just) get the driveshafts out without removing the brake shoes. I have done it that way.

Hi Wilf, I've already removed the shoes, it's just the splitting of the drive shaft from the back plate that I can't get my head round. I have replacement trailing arms ready painted and with new poly bushes awaiting fitting (the whole object of the original exercise). I'll have to have another look coz I'm still clearly missing something.
Thanks for the input though
Cheers
Gord

[wilf]

The whole wheel bearing carrier assembly, through which the drive shaft passes, comes free from the trailing arm when you undo those 6 nuts.

Have a look at the Brothers pictures as well as your manual.

[BartonStag]

The whole wheel bearing carrier assembly, through which the drive shaft passes, comes free when you undo those 6 nuts.

Have a look at the Brothers pictures as well as your manual.

Ok Wilf - if you say so! - I'll go and have a look right now
Cheers
Gord

[V Mad]

Surely the centre large nyloc has to come off to allow the removal of the driveshaft? Gord

No Gord, you dont need to remove the big Nyloc nut. After removing the six Nylocs the shaft and hub should come out as one.

Ah Wilf beat me to it.

[73stagman]

The wheel bearing housing will be stuck on the back plate as it is a proper metal to metal "fit" The back plate will be stuck to the aluminium trailing arm because that's the nature of the beast! LOL.
You will need to gently persuade the back plate to let go of the trailing arm and let it come with the drive shaft. Of course you have to release the brake pipe from the wheel cylinder too. Once you have moved the back plate from the trailing arm the whole drive shaft will come with it but you should be able to knock the back plate off the bearing housing. A coat of copper slip when it goes back together will help in the future!

[BartonStag]

Hi Chris, I'm looking at Rimmer bros mag as I type, just as Wilf suggested. The six nuts are off but the driveshaft is still in one complete piece. Q1) do I have to split it - if so at what point? Q2) do I have to tap something to assist with the separation?
Thanks
Gord

[BartonStag]

The wheel bearing housing will be stuck on the back plate as it is a proper metal to metal "fit" The back plate will be stuck to the aluminium trailing arm because that's the nature of the beast! LOL.
You will need to gently persuade the back plate to let go of the trailing arm and let it come with the drive shaft. Of course you have to release the brake pipe from the wheel cylinder too. Once you have moved the back plate from the trailing arm the whole drive shaft will come with it but you should be able to knock the back plate off the bearing housing. A coat of copper slip when it goes back together will help in the future!

Neil this could be the missing piece of the jigsaw!! You have I believe just answered my question to Chris
Thanks all, i'll go and review the situation now and keep you updated.
Cheers
Gord

[73stagman]

Play safe!

[BartonStag]

Hiya gents,
CRACKED IT!!! Took me long enough tho! Thanks to all for your solutions and input - you've got me out of jail again, much appreciated.

All the best to you gents
many thanks
Gord