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    Differential Change

    Hi There,

    I am a reasonably competent mechanic but wondered how long I should allow to change a differential as I have never carried this out on a Stag before? Any things to look out for?

    I will have the replacement ready to go back in.

    Cheers

    Austin

    #2
    Straight swap with no rusted bolts, within an hour. Jack and support car, Trolley jack under diff. 4 bolts on each driveshaft flange. 4 bolts to front extension housing. 2 bolts supporting diff to body.

    You may want to derust support bracket and reinforce and change quill shaft bearing whilst you are there

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks John.

      Comment


        #4
        Hi, do you not need to remove exhaust, I was under that impression and have been putting job off.
        cheers Drew

        Comment


          #5
          Good point, come to think of it my exhaust was off anyway. Its only the right hand pipe as it changes sides. You can probably wangle it around the pipe, but await clarification from the experts.

          Comment


            #6
            I'd take a good look at the Quill Housing whilst you're at it.

            Stag_Quill1.jpg

            Stag_Quill2.jpg

            Regards

            Steve
            TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

            Comment


              #7
              The diff on Austin's car already has a reinforced quill housing so it shouldn't be a problem.

              Ian

              Comment


                #8
                Ian,

                That's good, Austin will be OK then.

                Many others will read the thread. If any of it can save just one owner from disaster, that's good too.

                Regards

                Steve
                TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks Ian. The car is running very well by the way.

                  Originally posted by iani View Post
                  The diff on Austin's car already has a reinforced quill housing so it shouldn't be a problem.

                  Ian
                  Thanks to everyone else for the tips.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The subframe may move around a bit so it might be worth uncoupling the rear exhaust rubbers so there's not too much strain on the exhaust system.

                    Cheers,
                    Mike.
                    Mine since 1987. Finished a 20+ year rebuild in 2012. One of many Triumphs and a 1949 LandRover!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by AustinM View Post
                      Thanks Ian. The car is running very well by the way.



                      Thanks to everyone else for the tips.
                      Glad to hear it, hope diff swap goes ok, should do as has been off in last 2 years, mounts should be ok too as changed at the time.

                      Ian

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I wish I could have done it in an hour! Took me hours and hours and lots of cursing. Would be hard (or maybe impossible) to do without taking the rear exhausts off. Following advice here I supported the car on large blocks of wood under the rear footwells and that allows everything to come to bits and the trailing arms assembly to drop sufficiently (and that was a struggle) to get the diff out. I had some metal welded to the trolley jack to take the diff without it falling off, but I still got a head full of diff oil when it separated from the quill shaft. I hope I don't have to do that job again!

                        Comment

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