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Don't know, but i thought a minute ago to look up what this stuff was:
Q. What is Evans Waterless Coolant made of?
Evans Waterless Coolants are patented synthetic formulation blended with a non-aqueous proprietary inhibitor package.
I understand that this waterless coolant was devised for racing engines which by their very nature experience extreme heat build up very quickly and I'm sure that it does a good job in those circumstances.
Now the marketing boys are looking for further revenue and have identified Mr Classic Car Owner who likes to spend money on maintaining his pride and joy. What better way to show our enthusiasm for our cars than forking out for the latest must-have goodie?
I think that there is a danger that buyers could see it as being a solution for a problem.
However, if your engine is overheating, then this waterless coolant is merely disguising the problem and not solving it.
If your cooling system is working fine, then there is no reason to have waterless coolant.
I have the option of using waterless but seeing as my rebuild has replaced just about every everything if I spring a leak during first testing your going to frantic trying to save the fluid. The more chat to none forum members the more people tell me there is nothing wrong with the original set up . People even run without a header tank . I think a once year coolant replace isn't the hardest job and maintaining our cars is part of the fun. If you do have a problem I don't like the idea of a product masking the cause and effect of over heating.
edd
If you do unfortunately overheat, you get the physical warning of steam release from the pressure cap if you don't notice the temperature gauge.
If you overheat using Evans, you get no warning, only the temperature gauge or even worse, engine seizure!
I would certainly fit a high temperature warning buzzer.
Edd
I visited Julian last week thought gauge rose a little high but carried on after a couple of hours with Julian I drove home and found my electric fan had stopped working looking back I do not remember my fan working on the classics around Dorset run I believe it stopped working on the new forest run found a unexpected fuse blown been up and down some steep hills with no fan at all and some fast running max temp was 3/4 on gauge.
I did Flush out system with holts two part flush and have refilled with Oat type coolant as recommended by Peter Hills (LD Parts).
Cheers Glenn
I have the option of using waterless but seeing as my rebuild has replaced just about every everything if I spring a leak during first testing your going to frantic trying to save the fluid. The more chat to none forum members the more people tell me there is nothing wrong with the original set up . People even run without a header tank . I think a once year coolant replace isn't the hardest job and maintaining our cars is part of the fun. If you do have a problem I don't like the idea of a product masking the cause and effect of over heating.
edd
Edd
I visited Julian last week thought gauge rose a little high but carried on after a couple of hours with Julian I drove home and found my electric fan had stopped working looking back I do not remember my fan working on the classics around Dorset run I believe it stopped working on the new forest run found a unexpected fuse blown been up and down some steep hills with no fan at all and some fast running max temp was 3/4 on gauge.
I did Flush out system with holts two part flush and have refilled with Oat type coolant as recommended by Peter Hills (LD Parts).
Cheers Glenn
Ah, but the engine would be pulling a lot fewer revs with that ZF you've got
(NB. It's Peter Howells at LDparts, not Hills)
Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
I thought i heard or read somewhere that Evans coolants are either propylene glycol or a mix of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol depending on the product. IIRC propylene glycol is used in smoke machines (and bizzarley Walls "no shrink" bacon!). If it is flammable I guess its the ethylelne glycol that combusts but thats what's in normal antifreeze anyway so maybe its only flammable if no water is present
Personally I am going to stick with toyota red coolant with its phosphate based corrosion inhibitors as it has served me well for 26 years and I have never had to drain and flush my coolant system in all that time. (except for when I had to drain the coolant for other maintanance reasons).
That increase in cylinder head temperature would be enough to turn me off the idea, let alone the other negative issues. Tap water and 30% ethylene glycol based anti-freeze will continue to be my coolant choice..........
Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
I've long been fascinated by how divisive this subject is, I wonder if that still would be the case if waterless coolant would cost less than half of what it does today...?
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