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    Rear Brake Issues

    Hello,

    yesterday I had a short run (25 miles) back from workshop to home. When I parked the car in the garage, I noticed a strange smell. During my investigations I noticed that the right brake drum and the rim of the wheel was very warm, while the left brake drum was still cool.

    I jacked up the car and found the right wheel turning with a scratching noise. I removed the right wheel just to find one of the screws missing which normaly retains the brake drum.

    Foto 1.jpg

    Also the brake drum had a small crack.

    Foto 3.jpg

    I checked and cleaned the brake inside, but didn't find the reason why the brake doesn't open completely.
    After reassembling the brake the wheel turned freely (even after pressing and releasing the foot brake).

    So, here are some dumb questions:
    - Is the missing screw critical? Then the wheel is mounted the brake drum will be fixed by the wheel.
    - What is the sizing of these screws. The usual suppliers don't mention the size and I don't want to pay the five times value of the screw for the postage.
    - Would you replace the brake drum and if so, are there any preferred suppliers?
    - Do you have any suggestions why the brake did not fully open? Can it happen using a badly adjusted hand brake?

    Each suggestion will be appreciated.

    Gerd

    Last edited by badenstag; 29 June 2014, 15:08.
    1976 TV8 Manual O/D in pimento red
    1986 BMW R80RT

    #2
    Hi,

    Missing one set screw is not critical but having a crack on the drum is. I would change out that ASAP. The brake shoes must be binding the most likely cause in my opinion would the the auto hand brake adjuster. If ordering new drums you should also replace the shoes at the same time.

    Danny
    Danny 1972 STAG Mk1 TV8 Auto, 1967 SPITFIRE http://www.grampianstags.net
    sigpic

    Comment


      #3
      I left all the drum retaining screws out. As you say they are retained by the wheel. On mine they sheared off when I tried to remove them during he early stages of my rebuild. so the broken bits were left in the hubs.. decided that it was more trouble than it was worth to sort new ones and have the same thing happen again.
      I think the crack is a problem.... it can only get worse.
      It also sounds like either the springs or the adjusters arent working right.....or one half (one piston) of the wheel cylinder is stuck in position

      Comment


        #4
        Not a problem running without the retaining screws, but drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading and keep an eye on it.

        John
        Your wife is right, size matters. 3.9RV8

        Comment


          #5
          Yes you can stop the crack but it doesnt stop the drum being scrap IMHO

          Comment


            #6
            Thank you for your comments.

            I think I'll change the right drum together with the brake shoes or would you suggest to do both sides?
            Will it be simple to do it by myself (never worked before on brakes) or would you suggest to get it solved by a professional?

            Apparently, the stag is slowly (?) becoming a penny-eater

            Gerd

            1976 TV8 Manual O/D in pimento red
            1986 BMW R80RT

            Comment


              #7
              You only need to change the cracked drum but I would always do both sets of shoes. Check the linkages are all free, the adjusters are assembled correctly and the springs are all in the right position. and that the wheel cylinders are working properly. You could just be pushing one shoe if both pistons in the wheel cylinder dont advance together.

              Comment


                #8
                sorry didnt read the whole comment; brakes are a safety issue. If you dont feel up to the job, and that means if you have ANY doubts , then get a professional to do the job. It may cost you money but it might save your life!

                Comment

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