How much voltage drop should ballast resistor give?

[Nambo]

I had removed my ballast resistor wire and just used a 12 volt coil.
I figured though that maybe that wasn't helping my hard starting when hot so today fitted a MSD Blaster coil that comes with its own ballast resistor.
However, I measured the voltage going into the resistor and the voltage coming out, and could detect no difference, I was expecting to see voltage drop by a volt or two, the resistor is marked 10%

My other problem is I find I am getting no voltage up the yellow and white wire from the IGN post on the starter.

Pete

[V Mad]

Hi Pete
There will be no voltage drop unless there is current flowing. So the test is: temporarily short the coil NEG to ground, then you should see about half the voltage dropped across the ballast.

[Nambo]

Hi Pete
There will be no voltage drop unless there is current flowing. So the test is: temporarily short the coil NEG to ground, then you should see about half the voltage dropped across the ballast.

Cheers, I hoped it was an error in my understanding of how a ballast resistor works.

If I find the fault with my un-resisted starting supply to the coil is due to the starter motor which works fine otherwise, would it be permissible for me to just take a feed elsewhere off the ignition switch to starter motor wire?

[V Mad]

If you are referring to the ballast bypass (which boosts coil voltage), then that supply comes from the solenoid.

Although I think ballasted systems are worth keeping, I dont think this will help with a hot start problem unless your old coil was overloeaded and was failing.

A common hot start problem is caused by flooding Strombergs (see recent threads on this).

[Guest]

Someone in the past fitted Lumenition to my car. This came with a ballast resistor. However, the person fitting it did not know that the car already had a ballast resistance in the wiring loom. So, on starting, only 6 volts would be going to the coil and only 3 volts in normal running. On top of that, the ballast bypass wire was not working, so I was only getting 3 volts on starting. Until I discovered this, the car was not a great starter when cold and a really temperamental one whilst hot. Worked fine after I removed the Lumenition. It must have been like that for years and the previous owner never knew. Then the carb float valves decided to leak and I got the problem that Chris mentioned above.

[KOY 23]

If you are referring to the ballast bypass (which boosts coil voltage), then that supply comes from the solenoid.

Although I think ballasted systems are worth keeping, I dont think this will help with a hot start problem unless your old coil was overloeaded and was failing.

A common hot start problem is caused by flooding Strombergs (see recent threads on this).

Not just Strombergs.

Chris, can't you get the message to STOP knocking competitive products to yours??



Traders should not be allowed to criticise competitor's products or promote their own on the forum.

Other forums strictly forbid and control traders, shame this one doesn't.

[robbo]

Sorry but I see no promotion of products in this thread. It's true the strombergs do flood mine did the other day just replaced the valves job done. I have no intention of changing to another type of carburettor as I personally like the look of the strombergs.
Regards Rob.

[Stagsongas]

If we're back to the carb thing;

ALL carbs, of any make, having float chambers, floats and float valves can flood. They are also a huge compromise in terms of mixture accuracy across the range and are susecepitile to changes in their settings caused by wear, vibration and expansion / contraction during the drive cycle. The technology used to design all of them has its roots right back in the 1890's.

Nowadays, practically all car petrol engines are fed by EFi that has the ability to self-tune many times a second. These are far more accurate and less susceptible to wear during the first 100k miles.

Carb.s are old technology, they have not changed at all and are probably just as much trouble today as they were when a year or two old. We just have to put up with them, whatever make they are, or make very radical changes.

The watchword isn't 'Stromberg', it is 'Carburettor'.

Regards

Steve

[KOY 23]

If we're back to the carb thing;

ALL carbs, of any make, having float chambers, floats and float valves can flood. They are also a huge compromise in terms of mixture accuracy across the range and are susecepitile to changes in their settings caused by wear, vibration and expansion / contraction during the drive cycle. The technology used to design all of them has its roots right back in the 1890's.

Nowadays, practically all car petrol engines are fed by EFi that has the ability to self-tune many times a second. These are far more accurate and less susceptible to wear during the first 100k miles.

Carb.s are old technology, they have not changed at all and are probably just as much trouble today as they were when a year or two old. We just have to put up with them, whatever make they are, or make very radical changes.

The watchword isn't 'Stromberg', it is 'Carburettor'.

Regards

Steve

Exactly!!

[V Mad]

Sorry but I see no promotion of products in this thread. It's true the strombergs do flood mine did the other day just replaced the valves job done. I have no intention of changing to another type of carburettor as I personally like the look of the strombergs.
Regards Rob.

Thank you robbo.

[richardthestag]

flooding carbs?

fit one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FILTER-KING-85mm-CLEAR-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-GAUGE-/271257508359?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f28351a07

or work out why your pump is putting out too much pressure

as you were

[Nambo]

Back to thread, there is something amiss with my starter solenoid, although it turns the engine, it doesn't connect the 12volt feed from the ignition switch back up the ballast bypass wire.

Should I be worried and can I leave this for a later job?

Remembering I had a 12volt coil that would have got less voltage when the starter motor was being operated, I now have a high power 6 volt coil that will get its full 6 volts when engine is cranked, I presume a 6 volt coil with full voltage gives a better spark then a 12 volt coil with less then 12 volts? So at least I am a step in the right direction.
So guessing the 12 volt bypass feed is maybe a step further that's not strictly necessary as I know not all ballast coiled vehicles have this feature.

Pete

[V Mad]

All ballasted cars have the boost function. If yours is not working, it shouldnt make any difference in the summer. It's really there to compensate for the drop in battery voltgage when starting in winter.

There is a fix using a relay, but its best to get the solenoid fixed as thats the proper way.

[73stagman]

Back to thread, there is something amiss with my starter solenoid, although it turns the engine, it doesn't connect the 12volt feed from the ignition switch back up the ballast bypass wire.

Should I be worried and can I leave this for a later job?

Remembering I had a 12volt coil that would have got less voltage when the starter motor was being operated, I now have a high power 6 volt coil that will get its full 6 volts when engine is cranked, I presume a 6 volt coil with full voltage gives a better spark then a 12 volt coil with less then 12 volts? So at least I am a step in the right direction.
So guessing the 12 volt bypass feed is maybe a step further that's not strictly necessary as I know not all ballast coiled vehicles have this feature.

Pete

sounds like your starter solenoid has a broken connection to the bypass wire so the real fix is to replace it.

DONT DO WHAT I POSTED EARLIER.... Thanks Koy.....

[73stagman]

The other part of this thread...

Are we all certain that this isnt a double act... good cop bad cop stuff..Ill make a post you tell me off..... and so on....get us a bit of free air time.. I guess not

I guess its true, all carbs can "flood" an engine after all its not the carb that "floods" its the combustion chambers and that means a fault with the carbs and / or fueling system....but its also true the most Stags run Strombergs so most Stags suffering flooding issues might have trouble with a faulty set of Stromberg carbs. I guess that most people with faulty Stromberg carbs might take advise to get the Strombergs fixed....
I might have missed something but I dont see any advise to do anything else on here... it is seriously off topic and confusing though talking about carbs when the OP has rather clearly identified his problem as the ballast bypass system is obviously missing or faulty