EBC Recommendation

[Andrew S]

To be honest as the back of the pads had like a small ruberised mat on the back, I had no intention of putting CS on them but only did it as the sachet came with them, so promted me to do so

[DJT]

Neil,

Copper based grease is brilliant stuff in the right places. The back of brake pads is one such place. Not so good on the front though.......

Also brilliant for inside bush sleeves where it acts as anti-seize compound, which is a correct application. The negative comments on here are warnings not to use it on threads that need to be torqued up, such as head bolts/studs. Some have warned against using it on the shanks of head studs because it supposedly dries out and causes the studs to jam in the heads. Not seen that myself, but it may be true.

[73stagman]

Neil,

Copper based grease is brilliant stuff in the right places. The back of brake pads is one such place. .......

Also brilliant for inside bush sleeves where it acts as anti-seize compound, which is a correct application. The negative comments on here are warnings not to use it on threads that need to be torqued up, such as head bolts/studs..

See that's exactly where we DO use it at work. We wouldn't think of assembling our components without either it or molybdenum paste... Moly where its soaked in oil and copper slip where it gets soaked in drilling mud

[73stagman]

And especially use it on things like brake caliper mounting bolts, suspension mounting bolts and fixings that are going to see high temperatures.... even if it goes hard it retains some of its anti seize properties and is far better than trying to free off dry rusted or aluminium oxide seized bolts (perhaps the better option on the head studs would be the moly paste we use...)

[DJT]

You are using terminology that is familiar to me also. It was offshore where I learnt about it not being suitable for torqued threads (e.g. pipeline flange bolts). Molykote was used in that instance, and it would probably be good for head studs.

[mike@thenook]

I used Copper slip on my head studs and bolts when I did the last re-build, only on the shafts and bottom threads though and not the top thread of the studs - I'm hoping I wont have to remove for a long time but if I do, it might just help

[Ian Durrant]

Copper greases are fine for brake pads etc. The problem with using it on head studs is that it promotes elecrolytic corrosion. It will work for a time but people on here have found it innefective or even worse than nothing when its been on a while. Nickel based anti seize is better but the new technology ceramic based anti seize ought to be the best as the stuff is much more inert. Not tried it myself but will be using it the next time I have the heads off because the science makes sense.

[Ian Durrant]

Copper greases are fine for brake pads etc. The problem with using it on head studs is that it promotes elecrolytic corrosion. It will work for a time but people on here have found it ineffective or even worse than nothing when its been on a while. Nickel based anti seize is better but the new technology ceramic based anti seize ought to be the best as the stuff is much more inert. Not tried it myself but will be using it the next time I have the heads off because the science makes sense.

[davidf]

Last time I took my heads off, they had been on 12 years, studs coated with copper grease on fitting. 9 unscrewed with a screwdriver in the slot, one needed 2 nuts locked together to unscrew it.

[Staggard]

IMO its not necessarily a time issue but a milage/hot-cold cycles I have stripped engines where its been used and it goes as hard as a policemans heart. you can see this by the way it bakes onto the back of old pads.