Adjusting (Tightening) Rear Wheel Bearing???

[72BLUE]

My rear OS hub has a lot of play, I discovered today whilst car was in local garage, so have been looking at old threads and it seems that it is possible to tighten them up. http://www.stag.org.uk/forum/showthr...eck+driveshaft

So, Q1) probably a stupid question, but, is it possible to tighten the bearing with the shaft/assembly/hub etc ON the car, or must the shaft be removed? Is it to do with spanner access?

Q2) I do have a used spare shaft/hub buried somewhere but any tips on checking the condition its bearing whilst OFF the car? Thinking its a waste of time to fit this only to find out that it is US.

If you are watching Bruce, I do hope to have it sorted for the forum run on Sunday, honest!

Many thanks for any input :-)

Cheers
Keith

[mike@thenook]

Hi Keith,

I had a problem once like this when the centre nut had somehow come loose - I tightened it up but not beyond where it came to a natural stop if you get what I mean. Never had a problem after that but if the nut is already tight (check it against the correct torque setting) I think it's time to replace the bearing or entire hub unit if easier.
The setting of the correct end float is critical to ensure the bearing doesn't seize.

Cheers

[72BLUE]

I tightened it up but not beyond where it came to a natural stop if you get what I mean.

Thanks Mike, but did you tighten it on or off the car?

Keith

[mike@thenook]

Sorry Keith, on the car.

You'll just need to take the nut retainer off first (assuming there is one) so you can turn the nut, remembering of course to flatten over an edge once finished.
I stopped the shaft turning by putting a brace across the inboard UJ and the bodywork.

[Rubce]

Keith

Why not whip a driveshaft off your other stag?

Bruce

[72BLUE]

Sorry Keith, on the car.

You'll just need to take the nut retainer off first (assuming there is one) so you can turn the nut, remembering of course to flatten over an edge once finished.
I stopped the shaft turning by putting a brace across the inboard UJ and the bodywork.

Thanks Mike! Thats what I was hoping to hear and now becomes 'plan A'! Cheers, Keith.

[72BLUE]

Keith

Why not whip a driveshaft off your other stag?

Bruce

Hi Bruce, yes, that is plan B!!

Cheers
Keith

[72BLUE]

Hi Keith,

I had a problem once like this when the centre nut had somehow come loose - I tightened it up but not beyond where it came to a natural stop if you get what I mean. Never had a problem after that but if the nut is already tight (check it against the correct torque setting) I think it's time to replace the bearing or entire hub unit if easier.
The setting of the correct end float is critical to ensure the bearing doesn't seize.

Cheers

Thanks again Mike, plan A went well. It was just a large nylock nut. No retaining tab or pin. Tweaked it up and all the play went, wheel turned smoothly :-) I then backed it almost off and applied some Loctite 2700 High Strength Threadlock before retightening.

Hopefully the bearing is not knacked, will have to keep an eye (and ear) on it............ just been for a short test run and it could be that the annoying vibration from the rear at c.55mph has gone. Will give it a better run out to the pub tonight, but that is potentially one more thing on the 'fix' list to tick off

Cheers
Keith

[mike@thenook]

Glad to hear it worked Keith, I don't now why they come loose but just maybe not torqued properly in the first place.
The Locktite should help too but looking at the Rimmers exploded view below it shows there should be a castle nut, washer and split pin. Not sure if mine has this or not so I may have been wrong on that bit.
Here's the link:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID005266

Cheers

[flying farmer]

IIRC the bearing clearances are set up from the double nut and locking tab on the rear of the hub and there is a collapsible spacer in there to make life extra difficult as if over tightened they have to be replaced.
The nut in the centre of the hub is just supposed to hold the hub in place on the tapered shaft, however if the centre nut comes loose no doubt everything will go wobbly so if re-tightening it fixes the problem I suppose all is well!

Neil

[72BLUE]

IIRC the bearing clearances are set up from the double nut and locking tab on the rear of the hub and there is a collapsible spacer in there to make life extra difficult as if over tightened they have to be replaced.
The nut in the centre of the hub is just supposed to hold the hub in place on the tapered shaft, however if the centre nut comes loose no doubt everything will go wobbly so if re-tightening it fixes the problem I suppose all is well!

Neil

Cheers Neil, good info as usual. Just back from a run out and all seems well, fingers crossed! See you Sunday btw.....

Keith

[TR5convalescent]

Please listen out carefully for a droning sound. A few years ago my TR5 failed an MOT (the regular tester was on holiday and they took it to a non classic friendly garage up the road) on barely detectable play in the OSR hub. Of course, they tightened it up, passed the MOT and two months later I had to fit a recon hub because they had collapsed the spacer.

The good news is that you will definitely know if yours has gone as will everyone else within 50 yards!