Coolant capacity?

[Markvh]

Another question!
This is all on a Mk2 Stag I have bought a few weeks ago. As noted in my other recent topics, I have drained all the coolant out of rad and removed the engine plugs and drained the engine. All nice and clear, the previous owner must have done this regularly. I removed the stat and refitted housing then refilled. Trouble was I could only get about 6 litres and the rad flush in. Warmed the car up then drained and flushed again. Took the rad off and flushed that. Fitted rad back, fitted new thermostat (with jiggle pin and foot). Put in 3.5 litres ethylene glycol antifreeze but could only get in about 1.5 litres of water in. Car near side was jacked up. I had removed the heater pipes and swapped over to fit into the heater the correct way round as ROM. Though I believe some people connect the pipes the other way round to avoid air locks. Is this OK? Anyway, How much coolant should I be able to get in? I though it should be 10.5 litres.
Thanks

[Markvh]

Additionaly, is it possible to slowly fill up so far with the thermostat housing and stat disconnected to aid air release? Then fit stat and housing. Then run engine while filling up with the remainder of coolant. have heard that it is a good idea to run the engine while filling up with coolant? (Obviously with stat and stat housing fitted).

[SaskStag]

Dunno about these running engine tricks. I'm too cowardly.
I just filled the rad very slowly, leaving it overnight, nothing else. It burped itself, but can take its sweet time.
I seem to remember that is the figure to completely fill the system - it's in the manual anyway.
Cheers
Tanya

[Stagsongas]

Mark,

Workshop manuals give conflicting instructions on connecting the matrix hoses. Supply hose at the bottom makes it self-bleed, supply hose at the top makes for airlocking and jacking the car up to release it.

Choice is all ours

The engine should be run when a good prooprtion of the expected volume of coolant has already been put in, as circulation aids air removal. The heater should be set to fully hot for bleeding.

Regards

Steve

[Markvh]

Mark,

Workshop manuals give conflicting instructions on connecting the matrix hoses. Supply hose at the bottom makes it self-bleed, supply hose at the top makes for airlocking and jacking the car up to release it.

Choice is all ours

The engine should be run when a good prooprtion of the expected volume of coolant has already been put in, as circulation aids air removal. The heater should be set to fully hot for bleeding.

Regards

Steve

Thanks! I shall connect it back up the other way with supply hose at bottom. I presume doing it this way has no detrimental effect on the heater or anything else?
By the way I am a trial member at the moment. If you are a fully paid up member, do you still have to wait for the moderators to release the posts?

[V Mad]

By the way I am a trial member at the moment. If you are a fully paid up member, do you still have to wait for the moderators to release the posts?

No, not unless you have been a naughty boy.

[Stagsongas]

Thanks! I shall connect it back up the other way with supply hose at bottom. I presume doing it this way has no detrimental effect on the heater or anything else?
By the way I am a trial member at the moment. If you are a fully paid up member, do you still have to wait for the moderators to release the posts?

Although there is supposed to be a slight benefit in having a downward cooling current inside the matrix, acting much like the actual radiator does, I've measured the matrix output with it connected up both ways. The difference was 0.37% which is barely significant, and could simply be down to tolerance of the IR thermometer.

Conversely, if connected up with the supply to the top, the greater risk of airlocking not only has the potential to stop matrix circulation altogether, preventing it from working, it could present an increased risk of engine damage due to lack of coolant in cylinder head hotspots if that air moves, or if circulation is merely or momentarily prevented.

The choice, for myself at least, is quite a simple one. Either you put up with bleeding difficulties (see what I did there) or you don't.

I know nothing of the doings of Moderators, other than I wish we didn't need any.

Regards

Steve

[Markvh]

Although there is supposed to be a slight benefit in having a downward cooling current inside the matrix, acting much like the actual radiator does, I've measured the matrix output with it connected up both ways. The difference was 0.37% which is barely significant, and could simply be down to tolerance of the IR thermometer.

Conversely, if connected up with the supply to the top, the greater risk of airlocking not only has the potential to stop matrix circulation altogether, preventing it from working, it could present an increased risk of engine damage due to lack of coolant in cylinder head hotspots if that air moves, or if circulation is merely or momentarily prevented.

The choice, for myself at least, is quite a simple one. Either you put up with bleeding difficulties (see what I did there) or you don't.

Regards

Steve

Yes, even I saw what you did there. I shall swap the hoses back tonight. Now where can I get 5 litres of ethylene glycol antifreeze from local to Derby? I need to add to/mix it with the Xpart part No GAC2019 and/or XP5AF bright green ethylene glocol that I have just bought from Rimmers and put in.

[iani]

You should have a Euro car parts near you, they sell blue antifreeze.

Ian

[jleyton]

I had the same problem as you once Mark and, somehow, I had a big airlock.

Started the engine and it did start to overheat it then belched and *arted and, once I'd allowed it to cool, I got in several more litres.

Not quite sure what the answer is but just try to get all your air out before overheating like I did.

Good luck.

Cheers

Julian

[Markvh]

Done it! Got it all in and discovered that I am an idiot. The car has an EWP so I only had to switch the ignition on to work the pump. Now all I have to do it find out how to get the car to start. Thanks for your help.

[Markvh]

Coolant full to capacity. New 88deg thermostat with foot and jiggle fitted (previous one had no foot, it is a Mk2 Stag). New thermal sender unit from LDParts Thermal Transmitter Temperature Sender 150843A, new 20lb expansion tank cap. Car running and still getting the slight coolant leak into the vee, so could be water pump seal or inlet manifold (I think it may be the middle and maybe rear inlets on right bank) so will need to monitor the coolant consumption. Radiator nice and warm at the bottom now. Temperature gauge still reads about 3/4 now matter how long car is running. The needle sits exactly over the middle of the 'M' and doesn't budge. I think as long as it stays there I won't worry and just get concerned if it rises to the red sector.

[V Mad]

I suspect your gauge is overreading, and needs recalibrating or replacement. Slight pump leak is normal after car has sat for a while.

[Staggard]

I suspect your gauge is overreading, and needs recalibrating or replacement. Slight pump leak is normal after car has sat for a while.

I thought he had an electric water pump NO your right I would appear he has two water pumps.

[Markvh]

I suspect your gauge is overreading, and needs recalibrating or replacement. Slight pump leak is normal after car has sat for a while.

Thanks. I didn't know you can recalibrate the temperature gauge. I presume there are people that the gauge can be sent to for this or do you have to do it yourself. If so, are there any instructions or guide lines anywhere?