starter solenoid

[arensal]

Hi,

It seems that the spate that feeds the 12V bypass to the coil on my starter solenoid is not working anymore. Is it Ok to use the red/white cable from the ignition switch as a replacemet source?

kind regards,

Alex

[V Mad]

No. If you want to do that you need a relay.

[arensal]

Thanks. I am not familiar with relays, rather try to repair the solenoid. Is there any intelligent way to get the solenoid off to check the internal wiring?

alex

[V Mad]

Yes, with a spanner not a big hammer. You need to remove the starter first (PITA), then you can remove the solenoid from it.
Have fun.

[arensal]

Thanks again Chris,

Oh boy, I'm getting mad over this job. What would be the properties of the relay which I could fit alternatively?

regards,

Alex

[Ian Durrant]

A normal 4 pin relay would work (I think) you just need to use a live feed from the fusebox to the input (live) and a wire from the NO (Normally open) pin to the coil +ve. However thinking about it I can't see how the solenoid can fail in a way that prevents the ballast bypass working. Maybe you just need to run a new wire from the solenoid to the coil +ve as the existing wire is broken?

Not my strong point relays, I could work it out more definitely with one in front of me but hopefully someone with more experience can clarify or give a better answer.

[KOY 23]

Ian is right.
Just to add a bit of detail.
pin 30 live feed from starter
pin 15 White/yellow to coil
pin 85 White/red from ignition switch
pin 86 earth.
All connections made at starter but extend relay up into engine compartment to keep it dry.

[arensal]

Thanks everybody!

This is a fantastic help! Could anybody still tell me the max amp the starter sucks?

P.S. Ian, it was by redoing the wire that I realized that the feeing didn't work anymore.

regards,

Alex

[arensal]

Again thanks everybody!

I did as suggested (I did fit the relay), It's clicks in during cranking and I do have the correct voltage readings at the coil now but.... the car won't start. Even when I connect it only to a 12V supply I don't seem to get a spark. (it did before)

Any Ideas about where to start looking for the error? (spark cables, lumenition module, distibutor ....)?

regards,

Alex

[arensal]

Oh dear,

I 've just realized that I did only "close" the distributor on one side while trying to crank and start the engine - is it likely that it's dead now? How can I check this?

[Ian Durrant]

Oh dear,

I 've just realized that I did only "close" the distributor on one side while trying to crank and start the engine - is it likely that it's dead now? How can I check this?

Check the rotor arm. If the cap was not on properly the rotor arm can hit the cap and break the pip that locates on the dizzy shaft.......You don't need to ask me how I know this

[arensal]

This is was the rotor arm looks like : 20140902_225449.jpg

[arensal]

update :

no spark at the plugs. So the problem seems to be between coil and plug. My coil is new, the voltage getting to the coil is right (12V while cranking, 6V later). I fear that I did solve one problem but triggered another one. My questions now are :

a) Is there any way op testing the HT cable between coil and distributor?

b) please have a look at the picture of the distributor above and tell whether there is something not looking right

P.S. I am sorry for beeing persistant but It is very difficult to find Stag experts outside of the UK

[Ian Durrant]

Try taking the HT lead off that goes from the coil to the distributor (at the distributor end). See if a spark jumps from the end of the lead. This will tell you if the coil is producing a spark. If it is then the lack of spark is caused by a fault in the High Tension part of the distributor, if it isnt it's either the coil or a fault in the low tension system, either in the coil or the wiring or in the distributor its self.

[arensal]

Thank you!

This makes sense and will help locating the issue. I'll check it tomorrow but think to remember that I did look at the HT lead before and I did NOT see a spark. This would the limit the problem area to the low tension part.

I then probably I did wrong on the relay by maybe using the ballasted wire on the 85 as I could not find that one before. But there is no pink on it. It's color is between white and yellow. The 30 is connected to the inerta swith (constant 12V) that also feeds the lumenition module.

Alexander