Oil Burning Engine Stripdown

[pagan]

I emailed JP themselves there a lot cheaper to but but they wanted 100 AUD to post them here and then import duty killed the job and they ended up £100 dearer by the time they got to me.

James

$100 Aus = less than £50

Whereas £44.00 = nearly aus $100

But then import duties/Tax into Aus is usually $0 up to 1000.00 depending on item

Allan

[tractorjames]

Bit more at the engine this weekend...

Started a little bit of porting work and balanced the con rods.

GHot my crank back from grinding/hardening so i dummy built the bottom end to measure the piston protrusion following a light skimming of the block. One side ranges from .012 - .015 and the other ranges from .018 - .020. With the thick head gaskets this gives me .040 ish clearance between the pistons and head on the tightest one.

Anyone have any experience weather this is acceptable? On reading previous threads this would seem more than adequate. I would however like to sort out the discrepancy between pistons. Really I think I need to wait till my heads come back for a measure up/trial fit. The valves were a few though proud of the head face but after a skim and seat re cut ill need to see where they end up.











Cheers,
James

[flying farmer]

Should be no problems with 20 thou over deck height and thick gaskets, I have used the same with standard gaskets and no problems.

You could try swapping the highest and lowest pistons, sometimes it makes a thou or two difference.

Neil

[tractorjames]

OK, cheers for that . That's my next step as I didn't fit rings or torqueing anything up so it no big deal to do some swapping. I was going to give it a try although some of the discrepancy may be in the rods, although I don't suppose its the end of the world to rearrange then either. May get a little confusing as they're all numbered

Thanks again,
James

[tractorjames]

Bit of progress over last couple of days. Got my heads back from welding, and a bit more done on the block.

Spent the last couple of days on the LH head. Got the waterways opened back up, a little bit of porting/matching to gaskets and inlet manifold and got the valves lapped in. I placed the valves in position, put some plugs in and left the chambers full of diesel over night which stayed in there!

Pleased with the heads, they look a lot better than they did. All this progress means the dreaded tappet setting is closing in, although im not settling for a Jamaican steel band under the bonnet.















James

[tractorjames]

Finally got my heads sorted and on the engine, and today i've been sorting out the timing chains. All went smoothly including re drilling the cam sprockets, tweaking the straight chain guides, tensioning them, well the left hand one anyway.

I've come across a little issue with the right hand tensioner. I am reusing the existing timing chain set up as it was only fitted about 3000 miles ago and i don't see the point replacing it, but i must have missed this little issue last time around.

The foot of one of the 'new' rolon tensioners is not as wide as it should be, meaning that there is a gap between the foot and the back plate and it can rotate in the body. This is evident in the fact that the marks left from the chain passing over the foot aren't parallel to the edge of the foot. I've tried the foot that I've fitted to the LH side and this one is fine in either of the body's confirming that this foot has been manufactured too narrow.

It would be interesting to know if anyone else has encountered this issue? I'm glad I have spotted it and have just ordered a replacement tensioner from LD Parts so will see how this one goes...

James

[tractorjames]

A few pics

[tractorjames]

After a hell of a lot of searching and researching, in the end I opted to use copper grease on the threads of the studs/bolts, and febi ceramic grease on the shanks, along with stainless studs from Wards. If they seize in now there's no hope..., I hope.

James

[DJT]

After a hell of a lot of searching and researching, in the end I opted to use copper grease on the threads of the studs/bolts, and febi ceramic grease on the shanks, along with stainless studs from Wards. If they seize in now there's no hope..., I hope.

James

Do not use copper grease on the threads. This will reduce friction and mess up the torque settings. Torque values are stated for dry threads. The stud threads into the block should be wiped with an oily rag and threaded into the block by hand, then backed off a touch so that they don't bottom out. All other threads should be wiped with an oily rag only.

[tractorjames]

Do not use copper grease on the threads. This will reduce friction and mess up the torque settings. Torque values are stated for dry threads. The stud threads into the block should be wiped with an oily rag and threaded into the block by hand, then backed off a touch so that they don't bottom out. All other threads should be wiped with an oily rag only.

The copper grease was on the threads into the block which were screwed in and backed off as stated. and the thread at the top that does the 'torquing' was cleaned with a rag/wd40 so near as dam it dry.

James