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Although I never use my softop now (having a tonneau), when I did I always connected the front 1st, then "slammed" down hard the rear catch.
The 'male' part of the catch attached to the hood is adjustable for length & screwing this either clockwise or anti-clockwise might make things easier.
Its not just me then!! Thought I was just being a plonkerIf I do the front catches first the rear pin does not even line up onmy hood, hence adopting the 'wrong' way of doing it.
Terry - my catch is screwed out as far as it will go and the hood is still mighty tight!
Although I never use my softop now (having a tonneau), when I did I always connected the front 1st, then "slammed" down hard the rear catch.
The 'male' part of the catch attached to the hood is adjustable for length & screwing this either clockwise or anti-clockwise might make things easier.
Terry
I do mine exactly the same way as Terry did - front pins first followed by a good hard slam at the rear - works every time!
Hi Brian My hood is that tight that I have to stand on the sill to force the front catches down to get them to lock Followed by a good firm slam to lock the rear one downfortunately my rear pin locates perfectly . I find that if I release the velcro along the sides before fastening down it does help The trouble is by the time I give in and put the hood up it's already lashing down and all I want to do is get the dam thing up!
Anyone any ideas how to stop the rear plastic window from kinking when the hood is down I've tried unziping it but it' such a pain to get it zipped back up again I am pssd wet through by the time I've got the zip to go round the bends. I have also tried putting a length of pipe insulation inside the fold but this doesnt work very well either . The plastic always kinks in the same place and one day the kink is going to become a split
Anyone any ideas how to stop the rear plastic window from kinking when the hood is down I've tried unziping it but it' such a pain to get it zipped back up again I am pssd wet through by the time I've got the zip to go round the bends. I have also tried putting a length of pipe insulation inside the fold but this doesnt work very well either . The plastic always kinks in the same place and one day the kink is going to become a split
Regards Tony
Hi Tony
I put a rolled up towel in the rear window to stopit creasing, seams to work quite well,also you can use it to dry your self if it really pss down :P
JOHN
MK 2 1977 FLAMENCO RED ,WEBER ,BELT DRIVEN WATER PUMP.
Hi Brian My hood is that tight that I have to stand on the sill to force the front catches down to get them to lock Followed by a good firm slam to lock the rear one downfortunately my rear pin locates perfectly . I find that if I release the velcro along the sides before fastening down it does help The trouble is by the time I give in and put the hood up it's already lashing down and all I want to do is get the dam thing up!
I find it much easier to latch the N/S if I open the passenger door, I have tried adjusting the frame . Shows the car chassis must flex a little even with T bar.
I think the hood on mine hadn't been used for years. I found that I had to engage the front pins, turn the lever but not completely and this gave enough slack to slam the back down. Once done I complete the engagement of the pins.
Sounds as though Tdm's suggestion would give me just enough extra distance to allow the pins to be engaged fully 1st.
Trying to locate the pins if the back-end is engaged 1st wouldn't work, I can't get the pins anyway near.
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