Distributor

[malc4d]

Anyone know what size the 2 bolts holding the distributor should be ?

[Andrew S]

All I can tell you is, they are a 7/16 spanner size with a fine thread

[malc4d]

Ahhh that explains why my flebay snapon doesn't fit.....1/2" not the 7/16 he advertised......damm

[darrellprice]

The 1/2” & 9/16” distributor wrenches are still available new from Snap On, the 7/16” is not, hence the “substantial” prices they go for on eBay and the reason I am probably going to make my own, or just move the coil out of the way once every few years when I need to adjust the timing (electronic ignition so adjustment is not needed every other weekend ).
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...75499&store=uk

[malc4d]

K folks 48.00 squid on Snapon. Make me an offer........

[Enigma66]

No need for a special wrench. Don't waste your money. Have you altered the strap holder for the coil to make it easier to remove? Cut the coil strap so that the holes for the bolts become vertical downward slots. Then you need only loosen the coil attaching bolts and simply lift the coil, then set the coil up and out of the way without removing any of its wires. With the coil out of the way, you can easily reach the distributor bolts while standing on the right hand side of the car. Use a 7/16 wrench to manipulate the bolts for the distributor. If you are removing the distributor, when you go to reinstall, you can start the bolts as well as tighten them from the right side of the car. Then, slide the coil and its strap back over the loosened (but not removed) mounting bolts in the rear of the intake manifold and tighten them-you're done. The experienced Stag owner I bought my Stag from showed me to do this (he had done it on his, but not the one I bought from him), I did, and am glad every time I need to remove the coil or adjust timing. Been fine since 1996.

[Guest]

Why don't you move the coil to the left hand suspension pillar and then you can get at the two 1/4 inch BSF bolts with your 7/16 spanner.Imho I reckon that the coil is far better off not attached to the manifold,much cooler on the pillar.

Anthony

[malc4d]

Thanks guys, both dam good ideas.

[MandM]

Thanks guys, both dam good ideas.

As above, Malc, my coil bracket has been modified so you only have loosen the mounting bolts to remove it, see picture, also I have moved the coil to the bulk head as pictured their is a mounting hole to take your coil ( captive nut), the coil runs a lot cooler here as the bulk head acts as a heat sink. This also give you great access to the dizzy mounting bolts.
I made a 7/16" crows foot to fit a 3/8 drive socket set, works a treat and just cost some time. all these ideas have come from this great Forum of knowledge and posters past and present. thanks.
P1060084.jpgnote the bracket is now upside down as I mounted it on the bulk head.P1060080.jpgP1060083.jpgP1060082.jpgP1060081.jpghope this helps

[Enigma66]

I like the idea of the crows foot, well done. Same for the coil on the firewall idea and the subsequent cooler coil temperature. I use a box end wrench (ring spanner in British?) for the bolts. I'm curious MandM, why do you have bolts installed into the original coil mount holes on the intake manifold? I have never been fond of yellow cars, but on a Stag and a TR-4 it sure looks good, I have been converted. Must be the Italian designed cars or something. I like it better than the Sienna mine is painted, we receive many positive comments from others about the very 70's brown color. Seeing quite a few new vehicles painted brown lately, the color must be coming back into fashion.

[wilf]

Just a thought - oil filled coils can play up if mounted horizontally, they prefer to be vertical.

[KOY 23]

Just a thought - oil filled coils can play up if mounted horizontally, they prefer to be vertical.

Not just coils