Not charging

[Harve]

Hi all, finally got round to trying to sort out the stag.

I recently changed my alternator and seem to be having problems.

I had an IGN warning light come on hence new alternator which put the light out. Now though its not charging the battery properly.

Voltmeter reads 12.68 volts accross battery with the car standing engine off

Start the engine and reading drops to 12.58 volts.

Turn on lights etc and I get 12.07 volts.

I suspected that the alternator was faulty so swapped it for another reconned one and readings are exactly the same.

Can somebody tell me what I might have done wrong? Have I wired it up wrong? Have i got a dodgy connection somewhere?

any help much appreciated I'm hoping, weather permitting, that I can take it to the Thornfalcon car show tomorrow!

Cheers

[GDPR]

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Get access to the wire terminalat the alternator plug (big brown wire)and check the running voltage there..... if it is in the 13.8 to 14.4 v range then you need to track the big brown wire back from the alternator to the inner wing connector, then to the starter to find the bad joint.

If it still low at the alternator, stick a jump lead between the block and battery earth terminal and check again - this will rule out a cattled earth lead

Russ:dude:

[Harve]

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Hi thanks for the quick response.

The reading was exactly the same from the back of the alternator. Tried the jump lead and still 12.58 volts. Have I wired it wrongly? I do remember a bit of guess work when I put the alternator in.

I have 3 spade connectors 2 large one small, and 4 brownish looking wires, 1 large 3 small. What should go where???

[Harve]

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Just looked again,

I have 1 thick plain brown wire.

1 thin plain brown wire

1 thin brown and yellow wire and

1 thin brown and green wire.

I did have the thin brown and yellow wire on the small spade connector, then the thin plain brown wire on the middle spade connector and then the thick brown wire on the last large spade connector.

Anyone help me? I hate electrics!!!

[GDPR]

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This sounds odd - going to PM my phone number and find out some more from you

Russ:dude:

[Harve]

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Thanks Russ for your help! Was good to chat to you.

Rewired the alternator the correct way round - no different.

I tried everything you suggested but still no joy. Had the Honda battery across the Stag terminals and no different, got a reading of 12.25 volts.

Put the meter across battery positive to the thick brown wire and the reading was fluctuating between 0.01 and 0.15 - that was an ok reading wasn't it?

If so looks like the alternator, but thats 2 (1 new one from ldparts and 1 recon one from Paddocks) that havent worked! Surely the build quality cant be that bad!?! If it is the alternator then might have to go to Lucas - are the part numbers the same?

Cheers

Harve

[TimShoubridge]

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Harve,

LDParts? Have you spoken to Peter directly? I'm sure I've seen him post on this very subject on another forum. It's definitely worth it if you haven't.

Tim

[Harve]

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Haven't spoken to him as of yet, would he possibly know whats going on?

There's one more thing it could be which I've just noticed. The ignition light no longer comes on when I turn the key. Dont know why. How can I check if the light is working etc? The wire is in the right place on the back of the alternator.

Also the car has an immobiliser which seems to be playing up, it never comes on (i.e. i never have to blip the key fob to start) and the little LED is constantly on where it used to flash. Could this be related or is it a coincidence that these have happened at similar times.

[DJT]

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Harve wrote:

If it is the alternator then might have to go to Lucas - are the part numbers the same?

If you got one from ldparts, give Peter a call. He is very helpful and will try and assist. As for equivalent alternators, someone posted this on the 'other' forum recently:

Firstly, the Lucas 18ACR has a factory part No: 54021427.
The same alternator is also known as LRA100, LRA103, LRA106, LRA109, LRA226, GXE2276, 1504563, 1553528, 3900, 3901, 3956, 7060, 7065 and 6071967 by other car manufacturers. (BL, Ford, Landrover)

The Lucas 18ACR (In its various disguises as referenced above) is also the factory standard fitment to the following vehicles:

All Jaguars between 1972 - 83
All BL Allegro's ever built
All BL Mini's up to 1993
All Talbots ever built
Ford Transit 80/90/2.4D between 80-82
All LDV Sherpa vans
All Ford Capri's up to 1987
All Ford Cortina's up to 1984
All Ford Granada's (Not Scorpio)
Ford Sierra 2.0 & 2.3
All Morris Marina's & Ital's
Landrover 88/109 up to 1986
Landrover 90/110 2.5D between 85-90
Landrover Defender 90 TDi
MG Metro's between 82-90
All 1.8 MGB's & GT's & 1.5 MG Midgets
All Vauxhall Viva's

I have no doubt the above list is not exhaustive, but when you go to the likes of Halfords (UK car spares & accessories retailer) asking if they have an alternator for a Triumph Stag and after much fumbling around with their stock database system you're told 'sorry mate that cars not listed here' at least you can rattle off some alternatives, some of which will almost definitely be listed.

I also investigated the possibility of an upgraded alternator and found that a Lucas LRA460 with an output of 55Amps drops straight in with no bracket or terminal modifications. (I believe a Bosch AL298X is also an identical unit but please verify this before committing yourself) The LRA460 Alternator is listed as fitting the following vehicles:

FORD Fiesta 1.1 83-89
FORD Fiesta 1.1 83-89
FORD Fiesta 1.3 83-87
FORD Fiesta 1.4 83-89
FORD Fiesta 1.6 83-89
FORD Fiesta 1.6 XR2 81-89
FORD Escort 1.1 86-90
FORD Escort 1.1 90-95
FORD Escort 1.1 86-90
FORD Escort 1.3 86-90
FORD Escort 1.3 86-90
FORD Escort 1.3i 90-94
FORD Escort 1.3i 95-00
FORD Escort 1.4 90-94
FORD Escort 1.4 86-90
FORD Escort 1.4 AT 86-90
FORD Escort 1.4i 95-00
FORD Escort 1.4i 87-90
FORD Escort 1.6 90-94
FORD Escort 1.6 86-90
FORD Escort 1.6 AT 86-90
FORD Escort 1.6 RS 1600 Turbo 84-90
FORD Escort 1.6 XR3i 80-85
FORD Granada 2.8i 77-85
FORD Orion 1.4 86-90
FORD Orion 1.6 85-90
FORD Scorpio 2.8 85-86
FORD Sierra 2.0 82-84
FORD Sierra 2.0 82-84
FORD Sierra 2.3 82-86
FORD Sierra 2.8 XR4i 82-88
FORD Sierra 2.8i 84-88
ROVER 220 2.0 Gti 16V 91-96
ROVER GROUP Ital 2.0 AT 80-82
ROVER GROUP Maestro 1.3 84-92
ROVER GROUP Maestro 2.0D, Turbo 90-92
ROVER GROUP Maestro 500700 Van 1.3 84-94
ROVER GROUP MG Maestro 2.0 EFi2.0 Turbo 84-91
ROVER GROUP MG Metro Turbo 86-90
ROVER GROUP MG Montego 2.0 EFi 84-91
ROVER GROUP MG Montego 2.0 Turbo 84-91
ROVER GROUP Montego 1.3 84-88
ROVER GROUP Montego 2.02.0i 84-91
ROVER GROUP Montego 2.0D Turbo 88-95
ROVER GROUP Montego 2.0i Cat 91-95
MG Maestro 1.3 83-85
MG Maestro 2.0 EFi 84-91
MG Maestro 2.0 Turbo 84-91
MG Metro 1.3 Turbo 86-90
MG Montego 1.3 84-88
MG Montego 2.0 Diesel Turbo 88-95
MG Montego 2.0 EFi 84-91
MG Montego 2.0 Turbo 84-88


Again, the above list may not be exhaustive but should assist in tracking a unit down.

In case you're wondering, today I fitted a new 55Amp LRA460 unit at £40.00 without any modification and everything's now is sweet as a nut.

I presume his research is correct....... If it is, it would certainly assist in finding a 'used-but-good' one in a scrappy.

Dave

[GDPR]

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Harve wrote:

Haven't spoken to him as of yet, would he possibly know whats going on?

There's one more thing it could be which I've just noticed. The ignition light no longer comes on when I turn the key. Dont know why. How can I check if the light is working etc? The wire is in the right place on the back of the alternator.

Also the car has an immobiliser which seems to be playing up, it never comes on (i.e. i never have to blip the key fob to start) and the little LED is constantly on where it used to flash. Could this be related or is it a coincidence that these have happened at similar times.

Sorry Harve - went out so missed your post - you should have given me a call!

Ignition warning light test is easy (cars fitted with ACR series alternators only - the 11AC yours was converted from was a real different animal) earth the brown/yellow wire at the alternator end with the ignition on - if the ign light comes on, then that circuit is fine and if not lit when subsequentlyconnected to alternator then that confirms the alternator is cattled.

Your volt drop readings from earlier appear fine to me, and would steer me to fit a known good alternator. Many ACR and later A113/115 series Lucas machines can be re-handed to fit the Stag by taking 3 bolts out and just twisting the case to hand the mount lugs the way you want them......

Immobiliser is not related I feel to what's going on now - just ignore that and get that charging working

Russ:dude:

[Harve]

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Was going to phone but mobile died and I had to pop out anyway - but thanks for your help! Was great having some advice from someone who knows what they're doing.

I'll try and source a good alternator and see how it goes fingers crossed it'l get sorted soon although at least the weather isn't glorious sunshine so I dont feel like I'm mising out too much.

Long shot I know but anyone here planning on going to the thornfalcon car show near Taunton tomorrow that has a spare good alternator that Icould borrow.

Or does anyone have a good one that I could buy?

[V Mad]

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The ignition warning light needs to be correctly connected to the alternator otherwise it will not generate, because it needs an 'excitation' current. Disconnect the wire at the alternator and check it reads about 12 volts. If no volts, the bulb may be gone or there is an open circuit somewhere.

[DJT]

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Harve wrote:

Long shot I know but anyone here planning on going to the thornfalcon car show near Taunton tomorrow that has a spare good alternator that Icould borrow.

Sorry I cannot help with an alternator, but I am going to Thornfalcon. See you there. Anyone else going?

Dave

[stagowner]

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when you did the test as Kryten suggested, did you remove the wires from the alternator first ? - if not remove and check the voltage. If its 14v+ then its ok if not its duff. if its OK then reconnect and then disconnect the +ve battery terminal and check that voltage there if it’s not 14v+ then we can track the fault from there - but I need a starting point

[Harve]

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Hi, no the wires were still attached. Unfortunately the car is stuck about an hour away from me at my parents house so will have to wait till I can go back and try and sort it out again.

Price of petrol these days makes a 2 hour round trip expensive!

So if the alternator is spinning should the output be over 13 volts or does it need an "excitation" current coming from the brown/yellow wire? First thing I'll try is earthing that wiree and see if the ign light comes on. If it doesn't does that suggest a problem with that circuit?