Repairing a Kienzle Clock
I have a Kienzle clock from a 1976 Stag that does not work properly. This is surprising as it is the only part of a Stag, as far as I know, that is made in Germany!
The clock is a late one as it has a plastic case, rather than a metal case; so what follows may not apply to the metal case ones.
To take it apart, the bezel was eased open with a flat bladed screwdriver, trying to not do too much damage. Next, a small nut near the earth terminal was removed as this holds the movement in the case and males the earth connection. The movement was then pushed out through the front, pushing on the 12v terminal with a small pliers, and poking through the lamp hole against the facia. This was done alternately a mm at a time. Eventually it popped out.
The three nuts that hold the movement together were then removed and the unit separated into three main parts. See photo.
The facia and gears can be checked by turning the small gear at the back – the second hand should move easily.
The balance wheel can be checked by spinning it by hand – it should go back and forth for up to 10 seconds. I oiled the two ends with some very thin oil as it seemed a good idea.
The electronics are very simple and if they look OK, probably are. The coil looks very fragile, so be very careful with it.
If all are OK, reassemble the facia and the balance wheel. Give the wheel a spin, the second hand should move for about 7 seconds. The two spacers go on next, the brass one and the plastic one, putting them in the right place, the plastic one goes near the 12v terminal. Reassemble the electronics onto the other two bits, being careful not to knock the coil out of alignment. The wheel should move freely, the same as before. Do not over tighten the three screws as it tends to cause the movement to bind.
If you are happy it looks ok, then apply 12v to the 121v terminal spade (+ve) and 0v to the screw across from it. If all is well, the wheel will begin to move and build up until the hands begin to move. Let it run for a minute or two, and it should give off a loud tick.
Now the hard bit. Put it back in the box, and hope it works. That is not as simple it sounds. It took me a dozen attempts until it actually worked assembled. Any misalignment causes it to not work.
If this works you have a timepiece, if not you have a conversation piece.
I have a Kienzle clock from a 1976 Stag that does not work properly. This is surprising as it is the only part of a Stag, as far as I know, that is made in Germany!
The clock is a late one as it has a plastic case, rather than a metal case; so what follows may not apply to the metal case ones.
To take it apart, the bezel was eased open with a flat bladed screwdriver, trying to not do too much damage. Next, a small nut near the earth terminal was removed as this holds the movement in the case and males the earth connection. The movement was then pushed out through the front, pushing on the 12v terminal with a small pliers, and poking through the lamp hole against the facia. This was done alternately a mm at a time. Eventually it popped out.
The three nuts that hold the movement together were then removed and the unit separated into three main parts. See photo.
The facia and gears can be checked by turning the small gear at the back – the second hand should move easily.
The balance wheel can be checked by spinning it by hand – it should go back and forth for up to 10 seconds. I oiled the two ends with some very thin oil as it seemed a good idea.
The electronics are very simple and if they look OK, probably are. The coil looks very fragile, so be very careful with it.
If all are OK, reassemble the facia and the balance wheel. Give the wheel a spin, the second hand should move for about 7 seconds. The two spacers go on next, the brass one and the plastic one, putting them in the right place, the plastic one goes near the 12v terminal. Reassemble the electronics onto the other two bits, being careful not to knock the coil out of alignment. The wheel should move freely, the same as before. Do not over tighten the three screws as it tends to cause the movement to bind.
If you are happy it looks ok, then apply 12v to the 121v terminal spade (+ve) and 0v to the screw across from it. If all is well, the wheel will begin to move and build up until the hands begin to move. Let it run for a minute or two, and it should give off a loud tick.
Now the hard bit. Put it back in the box, and hope it works. That is not as simple it sounds. It took me a dozen attempts until it actually worked assembled. Any misalignment causes it to not work.
If this works you have a timepiece, if not you have a conversation piece.
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