Broken setscrew removal

[Rubce]

Hi All

The water pump successfully came out with the use of a slide hammer Stagdad's external pump kit is sitting on the dining room table waiting to be installed. The issue now is how best to remove the remains of the setscrew that snapped whilst removing the old pump cover. Its remains are sticking out of the block by about 10mm. Its the one in the higher position. Is it a blind tapped hole or does it go all the way through into the water way beneath?

Any suggestions?

Regards

Bruce

[jakesmig]

If you have access to a MIG welder, try welding a long bolt at an oblique angle to the top of the nut. The angle of the bolt will create a 'handle' and the heat of the welding should loosen the setscrew.

John

[jleyton]

I'm sure it'll be a blind hole Bruce - just can't imagine it being designed to go through to a waterway.

If you don't want to go down the welding route, how about just drilling out with progressively larger drills until either the little bit of metal that's left can be extracted or you can run a tap down the hole as, at least, access isn't too bad to that area.

Although we don't know how deep the hole is, you could just check the Triumph part number for the bolt (sorry, I haven't got my parts book to hand) and you can work out the length of the bolt from that. (If you don't know the way to check bolt length from part number just ask again Bruce and I'll be glad to advise) Deduct the length of the broken head you've got and you have a figure for the depth to drill to.

Good luck.

Cheers

Julian

[edd]

Its a shame you can't dremmel a slot in it then use a screw driver .

Edd

[jleyton]

Its a shame you can't dremmel a slot in it then use a screw driver .

Edd

Just lke the handy slots in the head studs Edd ?

Cheers

Julian

[edd]

Just lke the handy slots in the head studs Edd ?

Cheers

Julian

Point taken

Mind you I have removed some things with a impact driver but usually a Phillips head .

[Rubce]

Hi

I suspect cutting a slot for a screw driver would make little difference. I tried clamping a pair of mole grips on it and the sucker failed to rotate.

Bruce

[edd]

How about tapping another thread inside this one ( if its big enough)then screwing a stud in then using two nuts to lock the stud then undo.Anything but use easy outs once they break your buggered.
edd

[Motorsport Micky]

How about tapping another thread inside this one ( if its big enough)then screwing a stud in then using two nuts to lock the stud then undo.Anything but use easy outs once they break your buggered.
edd

I agree with Edd do not use easyouts. The problems with easy outs (never was the name so misapplied !) is the thread on them which is formed onto an extremely hard tool. Where the thread finishes it forms a stress raiser and when you apply even moderate torque to it "blam" the remover shatters leaving you with a harder than hell stub that you need to stellite drill out in the broken stud, bad news.

HOWEVER the tool I would be using is the Sealey VS7233 Stud Extractor Set, you'll find it on Amazon at about the £62 area. There are other versions of it Neilson do one Snap on etc, and it's a well establish method of removing broken studs.

I've used it when removing broken studs and bolts in 50 year old engines and of course TR and Stag units, the difference in this tool is it doesn't have a thread ( and hence a stress raiser) to screw into the broken stud.

You select the correct size fluted remover from the set ( the remover is a stud which has parallel flutes down it's length with no stress raisers on it) and using the hole centering tool ( a slip over bush of the appropriate diameter for the broken stud with a hole in the centre that suits the fluted remover) and the correct supplied drill bit from the kit, drill into the broken stud the appropriate amount.

Remove the slip over centering bush from the drilled stud and using the above mentioned correct size fluted remover, tap the fluted remover into the pre formed hole, ( it always goes in parallel ). The flutes (maybe up to 5 or 6 ) on the remover dig into the sides of the pre formed hole in the stud, then using a supplied slip over interior fluted wrench socket adaptor onto the stud of the correct size from the set and a normal 1/2" wrench and socket from your toolbox, turn the broken stud out.

You can safely use considerable torque against the fluted shaft, ( as a guide I'd use the same torque on the tool as you would on a bolt or stud of the same diameter) and if you feel uneasy amount the amount being used apply it with a torque wrench so you can see if you get near what you consider should be the limit. In my years of rebuilding engines It's never failed me, and when checking the use with a torque wrench it's surprising but the broken studs all come out well before what I consider a safe limit for the adaptor diameters are.

The removal tool and method is well thought out more importantly allows you to apply good torque in a safe and progressive manner to the broken studs or bolts and you stand every chance of success with it.

Micky

[edd]

I have used the fluted type and they are good . In the past however I have drilled out so accurately to just leave a spiral of thread left and then cleaned with a tap . I just hate anything hardened to that of a file. I have tried welding but it's hard to get that amount of penetrative action to withstand twisting.
Edd

[jleyton]

how about just drilling out with progressively larger drills until either the little bit of metal that's left can be extracted or you can run a tap down the hole

I have drilled out so accurately to just leave a spiral of thread left and then cleaned with a tap .

Great minds think alike then Edd

Cheers

Julian

[edd]

[QUOTE=jleyton;293277]Great minds think alike then Edd

Cheers

Julian[/QUOTE

We do Julian . I used to remove loads from rear BMW manifolds . trouble was this was after the the chaps at the main dealers drilled all over the place and left broken off easy outs in grrrrrr
By the time this post is finished the penetrative spray Bruce has no doubt applied will mean it comes away by hand

[V Mad]

Can anyone confirm what the thread is for these screws? I think it is probably 5/16 UNF.

Reason I ask is that my friend just had the same problem, and I may need to Helicoil the thread after removing the broken stud.

[KOY 23]

That's what my ROM says.

[Rubce]

Can anyone confirm what the thread is for these screws? I think it is probably 5/16 UNF.

Reason I ask is that my friend just had the same problem, and I may need to Helicoil the thread after removing the broken stud.

Yep, 5/16" UNF

Regards

Bruce