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Now I know why I had a repositioned alternator!

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    Now I know why I had a repositioned alternator!

    Having just spent the last 3 hours fitting the alternator into the original position by moving the power steering pump out of the way I now appreciate why my car had a repositioned alternator to the nearside! This movement of the alternator is only temporary until I can get the bolt extracted from the head that sheared off that was holding the Tony Hart Alternator bracket on a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to leave this bolt extraction to the experts at Faversham when the car goes in for its MOT and service next year, but I need a working car to get there, hence the need to put the alternator in its original location. Having got it in place, bolts all tightened up, just the loom to modify, I now find the bottom hose bolt is fouling the alternator fan -grrrrrrr, this car is fighting me all the way at the moment, particularly as it looks like I'll have to remove the whole bottom hose and pipe just to get at the jubilee clip - I refuse to take the alternator off just to unscrew it!!!!

    Just venting my frustration folks, and the need to go out an get some antifreeze now!!!!
    Steve
    1977 TV8 Russet Brown BW65 Auto 10CR and RBRR finisher

    #2
    Steve,

    During my recent engine work I've had to get the radiator out several times. I can now do it in about 15 minutes without spilling a drop of coolant.

    Ive mentioned before about siphoning the coolant using a piece of copper pipe and clear plastic hose via the filler bung. Some have poo-poohed the method, but it works and I've yet to swallow any antifreeze.

    Slacken the alternator and steering belts and remove them from their units. You can leave them around the front pulley. Undo the radiator mounts top and bottom, and remove the bolt holding the diagonal metal pipe to the timing cover. Finally, undo the hose clip where the top hose meets the water pump cover. Slip this hose off and lift the entire radiator away, complete with top and bottom hose and diagonal pipe. Remember to slip a piece of cardboard between the fan and radiator to avoid damaging the core.

    Tip the remnants of the coolant into the same bucket that the siphoned coolant is in.

    In your case you can then re-orientate the bottom hose clip with everything on the bench.

    Replace everything in the reverse order.
    Dave
    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

    Comment


      #3
      I fitted a new alternator about three years ago and found it a bit of a pain to fit - I guess it took me a couple of hours, but that involved cleaning everything up etc. After less than a year or so it started overcharging (whilst out in Belgium Luckily I made it back ok and it hadn't fried the battery too much.

      However, I really wasn't looking forward to dropping it out just to replace the regulator. Nevertheless, I did it from underneath (without removing the anti roll bar as described in the ROM) and had it out, and back in again in less than an hour.

      Message is twofold: 1) Do it from underneath and 2) It gets easier with practice

      Cheers

      Julian

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by jleyton View Post
        I fitted a new alternator about three years ago and found it a bit of a pain to fit - I guess it took me a couple of hours, but that involved cleaning everything up etc. After less than a year or so it started overcharging (whilst out in Belgium Luckily I made it back ok and it hadn't fried the battery too much.

        However, I really wasn't looking forward to dropping it out just to replace the regulator. Nevertheless, I did it from underneath (without removing the anti roll bar as described in the ROM) and had it out, and back in again in less than an hour.

        Message is twofold: 1) Do it from underneath and 2) It gets easier with practice

        Cheers

        Julian
        Not with an oil cooler in place........
        Dave
        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

        Comment


          #5
          Ah ha - good point. Another good reason to have a manual

          Cheers

          Julian

          Comment


            #6
            Yes I looked at doing it from underneath as the Rom says but I too have an auto with Oil cooler in the way. Thanks for all your suggestions, having a necessary break ( other things to do) before going back into the garage. I just hope the alternator is OK as when the bolt broke the wires melted on the manifold and there was a lot of sparking!
            Steve
            1977 TV8 Russet Brown BW65 Auto 10CR and RBRR finisher

            Comment


              #7
              I still dont get why people move the alternator. I think it is in a neat place out of the way, and not that difficult to get at on the rare occasion you need to.

              Comment


                #8
                You need to move it when fitting a EWP.
                ZF 4 spd box, Datsun shafts, SS exhaust, 38DGMS weber 158.9bhp, BMW MC Tomcat seatssigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by V Mad View Post
                  I still dont get why people move the alternator. I think it is in a neat place out of the way, and not that difficult to get at on the rare occasion you need to.
                  Reasons to move:
                  Further away from block and exhaust, so runs cooler and lives longer.
                  Cooler airstream.
                  Easy to adjust.
                  Easy to change.
                  Plenty of free space.
                  Room to mount EWP as Kevin says.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Original position places alternator close to (cool) air stream, so when moving along, there will be cool air flowing under the car. I would argue that temperature at top left of engine bay might even be hotter since hot air rises. But since no one has measured them we will never know.

                    Obviously it is easier to get to when moved, but I dont need to get to mine except for belt adjustment, which is a 5 minute job.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Kevin Garrod View Post
                      You need to move it when fitting a EWP.
                      There's more than one way to skin a Cat (works better for Jag fans!)

                      I fitted my EWP without moving the Alternator, and I've seen a search picture where someone else came to a similar conclusion. Here's mine;

                      Stag_EWP_2.jpg

                      It's all a bit 'swings and roundabouts', i.e. that the Alternator has a cooler air supply in it's lower, original location, but it gets a lot more road crap thrown at it too. All in all, I think eventually I will move mine as it makes it easier to fit a larger bodied, high-output version which is one of the things on my mirage 'to do' list - you do one and think of three more.

                      Regards

                      Steve
                      TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have used the syphon method, to prevent a mouthful of antifreeze I do this, (an old plumbers trick) use a flexible pipe about 1/4 bore, put it under a tap and run water into it, lift the free end to the same height as the end under the tap, when the hose is full seal each end with a finger. keeping you finger on 1 end, drop the other end into the rad and push to the bottom, then release the free end, water will flow until the rad is empty. simples! Derek

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Stagsongas View Post
                          There's more than one way to skin a Cat (works better for Jag fans!)

                          I fitted my EWP without moving the Alternator, and I've seen a search picture where someone else came to a similar conclusion. Here's mine;

                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]30762[/ATTACH]

                          It's all a bit 'swings and roundabouts', i.e. that the Alternator has a cooler air supply in it's lower, original location, but it gets a lot more road crap thrown at it too. All in all, I think eventually I will move mine as it makes it easier to fit a larger bodied, high-output version which is one of the things on my mirage 'to do' list - you do one and think of three more.

                          Regards

                          Steve
                          I was referring to an external (belt driven) pump, specifically Stagdad's, rather than an electric pump.
                          Yours looks interesting, have you got some more pics of the installation?
                          ZF 4 spd box, Datsun shafts, SS exhaust, 38DGMS weber 158.9bhp, BMW MC Tomcat seatssigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Kevin Garrod View Post
                            I was referring to an external (belt driven) pump, specifically Stagdad's, rather than an electric pump.
                            Yours looks interesting, have you got some more pics of the installation?
                            Kevin,

                            That's the problem with abbreviations - for me, Electric Water Pump, for you, External?

                            I did post a lot of pictures and a pretty full description on a recent (within the last month or so) thread. If you need any more I'll be pleased to share.

                            Regards

                            Steve
                            TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Look in the bottom right and you'll see my drain plug . I had this fitted also blanked off the overflow added another inlet and added a temp sensor then fully tested all for £60 when undone it's pours directly into a container.
                              20140810_104036.jpg

                              Comment

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