Engine Service

[designergraphics]

The engine is currently out of the car and work will be started on it on the 19th December. We'll be changing the timing chains and there's an oil leak that will need to be sorted. We're also tempted to paint the block black. Any suggestions as to what work would be best done when the engine's still out of the car would be helpful as we don't want to put it back in and say "Damn, we should have done that!"
Thanks,
Clive

[V Mad]

Change O-ring seals on the 'oil transfer housing'. Drain and clear out block drain holes if not already done. Remove and inspect water transfer housings at back of heads - clear out if necessary. Remove exhaust manifolds and check/helicoil threads as required. Check/replace rear crank seal?

[designergraphics]

Thanks Chris, we'll do all you suggest. Anything to make life easier later on!

[pagan]

What condition was the mota in before you removed it?
What was the oil pressure when it was running?
What was the compression like?

[Ian Durrant]

If you have the lump out anyway, I'd strip it and check as much as possible. You might as well replace the bearing shells, not hideously expensive to do and at the end of it you will know the condition of the engine or might discover something that was about to let go and cause the engine to come out again. If you don't want to go to the lengths of removing the heads then you can't do the piston rings so I would say do what chris has suggested and change the shells as a minimum. If the car is often laid up then you will probably find some corrosion on the shells unless the car has had a religious oil change before over wintering. If the heads are coming off then definitely do the rings as well.

[Ian Durrant]

Oh and the thrust washers should be replaced whilst doing the shells, if they wear and drop out you wll have an expensive repair bill and even possibly a scrap block. It's not worth the risk of not checking these things.

[Andy Rundell]

suggest checking the water pump (and jackshaft) drive teeth - and i'd choose the ceramic & machined impellor for the water-pump itself (assuming you aren't switching to an external pump)

..... Andy

[V Mad]

I bet you wish you hadnt asked now?

[tractorjames]

I bet you wish you hadnt asked now?

Next suggestion will be put a new one in

On a serious note, some good suggestions that could save a lot of downtime. More money needed maybe

James

[edd]

Are you intending to keep this car or for doing it up for profit . I really don't understand why you wouldn't be more inclined to strip the whole engine if you were keeping it .
Edd

[Stagdad]

I would change the core plugs, cheap to do and easy with the engine out.
Cheers Steve

[flying farmer]

Personally I would strip the whole engine and check everything while it is out, if nothing needs doing it will cost you a gasket set. If you find anything else it will be more expensive, but not as expensive as having to start all over again, and you may prevent consequential damage which could be more pricey still.

One I built myself years ago got a full stripdown after head gasket failure, and despite having covered 70,000 since the initial build (with one timing chain set in the middle), it needed nothing but another timing chain and gasket set, not even crank bearings in this instance, and I have the peace of mind that nothing unpleasant is going on in there.

If some wear is present, it is then a matter of balancing the cost of the parts for a rebuild with the mileage expected over the coming years.

Neil

[designergraphics]

As Chris said - I'm sorry I asked now!
I honestly didn't intend doing that much work. The previous owner was a mechanic by trade and had owned the car for thirty years and had used it regularly including club trips to France etc, so although the bodywork is rough I'm (fairly) confident that the engine was maintained well. It drove the 200 mile journey home with no problems but sorry pagan, although it's fitted with an oil pressure gauge I didn't take it in - all my attention was on the temperature gauge! Having read a few suggestions here it's tempting to give the engine a full strip down but on the other hand, with so much work to do on the bodywork the thought seems a little daunting. Also, the work to the engine is being done as a favour by a mechanic friend of my son, so although we intend keeping the car I wouldn't like to lay all that work on him as I don't want to take advantage. In light of this I feel we should limit the work to those things that should be done as a matter of routine and those that it would be foolish not to do. Chris, a shiny new engine to go in the freshly painted engine bay - I'd better check my lottery ticket
Clive

[davidf]

Change O-ring seals on the 'oil transfer housing'.

If you are doing the oil transfer housing, I would also do the oil pump. I know it is not so difficult to do with the engine in, but you still need to remove the offside down-pipe, and it is best to remove the distributor, so you can turn the pump by hand to prime it after re-installing.
Why do I recommend this - because having done my transfer housing 'O' rings last winter (possible but tricky with the engine in the car), I am having to do the pump this winter. Not all the oil on the outside of the pump was running down from the transfer housing! All the 'O' rings are the same age (about 30 years in my case), so it would have been sensible to have done them all at the same time last winter !

[Stagsongas]

Consider removing the Water Pump and replacing it with an external one of either type - see separate thread and much more from a search.

Good Luck

Steve