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    Water Pump. Standard one or External one.

    In January I having the engine out and a full rebuild by E J Wards. One of the things I'm looking at is what to do regarding the water pump. Is the one originally fitted good enough, it will be new, or should I go for an external one.
    If external should it be a mechanical one, or an electrical one ?
    I want to make the engine as "bomb proof" as I can, as I do not ever want to be dogged by coolant problems like I have been for the past year.
    I'm also having the altenator moved and will be sticking with a header tank.
    All comments and suggestions gratefully received.

    Thanks
    Duncan.

    #2
    Originally posted by Kingswood90 View Post

    I want to make the engine as "bomb proof" as I can, as I do not ever want to be dogged by coolant problems like I have been for the past year.
    Stagdad external mechanical pump

    ....... Andy

    Comment


      #3
      If you have the original pump, and it has had no problems, stick with it. If it aint broke...
      However if you have had problems, I fully understand why owners go electric or external mechanical.
      I can see the benefit of both, mechanical...simplicity but potential belt failure, electric...can keep running after a high speed run to cool the engine down.
      Personally...I would go electric for more control but would have a backup power supply circuit to the pump in case of switch/relay failure with some sort of indication warning when the pump has stopped running.
      Mike.
      74 Stag (Best Modified 2007), 02 Maserati 4200, 17 BMW M140i, 00 Mitsubishi Pinin

      Comment


        #4
        Duncan,

        As you say, the only way to not ever suffer coolant problems (where the pump is concerned) is to get rid. Whether you go for a Belt Driven External pump or an Electric External pump is up to you, all that matters is to get one of the two fitted and remove the original. It isn't only coolant problems you risk with the original pump, I almost lost my engine valves and faced head removal when the pump seized and slipped the timing chains after it stopped the Jackshaft. On a really bad day, even piston damage can result.

        I'm sure many would judge this as a strong opinion, and they'd be right. When that happened I decided that like you, I will not ever suffer any of the problems associated with the original water pump again. And I won't.

        Regards

        Steve
        TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Andy Rundell View Post
          Stagdad external mechanical pump

          ....... Andy
          +1 and I would not worry about belt failure, you just check belts at service intervals like any other car.

          Comment


            #6
            Re going electric if you must, most of the car electric wiring jobs I have seen, re electric fans, lighting mods etc etc were badly done and likely to fail prematurely. If you do go electric get the wiring done properly otherwise you are just replacing one unreliable system with another.

            Comment


              #7
              image.jpg

              I went for the mechanical external pump, after talking to several knowledgeable long term Stag owners.
              I had not had a problem with my water pump in over 20 years, but my 2nd Stag was more of an unknown entity. I believe the original water pump has become more problematic now due to replacement parts not being as well made/hardened as well.
              A quick search of posts on this site involving water pump/jackshaft failure, will give an indication of frequency and significance of this when it occurs.
              I went for the StagDad pump, and found it well made and a good kit. There is additional cost involved in buying a set of silicone hoses and quality hose clamps, also the cost of moving the alternator.
              A new alternator bracket is required, and if you are buying one rather than making one, the newer version from Wards is the sturdier one. [the previous one from Wards and the TH one aren't really robust enough]

              image.jpgimage.jpg

              Dave
              Last edited by Davenott; 8 December 2014, 11:59. Reason: Added photos from phone

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by V Mad View Post
                Re going electric if you must, most of the car electric wiring jobs I have seen, re electric fans, lighting mods etc etc were badly done and likely to fail prematurely. If you do go electric get the wiring done properly otherwise you are just replacing one unreliable system with another.
                Chris,

                The Davies Craig controller comes with it's own, very well made wiring loom. Only the most determined bodger could make a mess of it, although the flavour of your advice is sound. I'm not defending one type against the other as I don't favour either kind of pump - they both have pro's and con's so it has to be a matter of personal choice. Actually, I plan to have both types installed on seperate cars just for interest and personal comparison. Anything but the original!

                Regards

                Steve
                TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

                Comment


                  #9
                  There is still at least one connection required to pick up the power, and I am sure it will involve at least fitting of one terminal which will need to be reliably connected up somewhere. Use of the typical, cheap, non-ratchet crimp tool, a cheap spade terminal, or a corroded fuse box, and how long will it be before the pump just stops or slows because of a bad connection.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by V Mad View Post
                    There is still at least one connection required to pick up the power, and I am sure it will involve at least fitting of one terminal which will need to be reliably connected up somewhere. Use of the typical, cheap, non-ratchet crimp tool, a cheap spade terminal, or a corroded fuse box, and how long will it be before the pump just stops or slows because of a bad connection.
                    Bit like a piece of string there Chris ( you know how long is it) all connections are subject to failure its just when. And common sense would dictate that you would run this installation through a new separate fuse. Graham

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Duncan
                      What coolant/cooling problems have you had in the past and what do you think was/is the cause ? This is the question I think you should find the answer to, and then see what options are available.

                      Les

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hi Duncan

                        I am currently in the process of installing a Stagdad belt driven pump and also installing a Volvo header tank. I decided to take the opportunity to do these mods whilst I had the front of the engine in bits to do the timing chains.

                        Regards

                        Bruce

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by V Mad View Post
                          There is still at least one connection required to pick up the power, and I am sure it will involve at least fitting of one terminal which will need to be reliably connected up somewhere. Use of the typical, cheap, non-ratchet crimp tool, a cheap spade terminal, or a corroded fuse box, and how long will it be before the pump just stops or slows because of a bad connection.
                          Grasping at straws there Chris (or is it wires ) There must be an equal amount of opportunities for inexperienced fitters of both types of EWP to get it wrong. How long would it be before a belt kicks off due to a badly aligned pulley set up? Will the pump work then?

                          Like I said, I don't favour either type, pro's and con's for both, the crucial thing is to get rid of the original.

                          Regards

                          Steve
                          TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Daddy pump all day long. I'm not a fan of electric pumps . I think I would want a light on the dash to know it's actually working adding to the paranoia. As for the proven ridiculous design of the existing pump being so high it's crazy to do defend it its a bit like saying I smoke 40 a day and I feel great .
                            edd

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by edd View Post
                              Daddy pump all day long. I'm not a fan of electric pumps . I think I would want a light on the dash to know it's actually working adding to the paranoia. As for the proven ridiculous design of the existing pump being so high it's crazy to do defend it its a bit like saying I smoke 40 a day and I feel great .
                              edd
                              I have to say that mine worked fine, and when I removed it I found it was in good nick. It was the niggling thought in the back of my mind, the devastation that a sized pump or jackshaft could cause. My missis had an Escort the water pump sized and stripped the cam belt and all the valves hit the pistons that nightmare lives on.

                              Comment

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