Tubular manifold studs/clearance

[tractorjames]

Now then all, my new exhaust manifolds are currently on their way to me from phoenix and I'm debating how to fasten then too the heads.

My preferred method is to make some stainless studs to put in the heads and fasten the manifolds on with brass nuts but, I fear if I do this then should I ever have to remove the manifolds when the engine is in the car it will be tight for room to slide the manifolds off the studs, therefore it would be better to just run bolts into the heads???

If anyone has experience with this it would be interesting to hear from you.

My other question is about clearance between the steering shaft. I have a cast type steering shaft fitted, I feel this will need turning down or a steel shaft fitting. Has anyone successfully fitted tubular manifolds with an original cast shaft just by repositioning the steering rack?

Thanks,
James

[Ian Durrant]

I wouldn't use bolts, not even stainless ones, Brass nuts will eventually become stuck with corrosion of the steel stud that they are a pain to undo, but it does take a very long time. Since the manifolds are stainless you are unlikely to need to remove them from the head as they won't corrode any time soon so if you need to take the head off then you can remove it with the manifold on. ( I say that but since I fitted my tubulars I haven't had to remove them so I could be talking utter rubbish! )

[stagmuffin]

hi James ive got tubulars fitted with bolts st/st ones and have had them like this on my previous stag as well hgf failure twice with the old stag and they came off easy ive experienced no problems with this method .all my threads are helicoiled x2d as well this helps greatly. depending on the quality /grade of stainless used they may corrode over years because of ferrous content and lower chrome content I have welded a couple of sets for people in the past that perforated but it does not happen overnight . have you been playing with the dizzy yet ?are you going to be running a wideband o2 sensor as well this will help get you where you want to be
Steve

[Motorsport Micky]

If you are buying tubeless stainless it's likely the downpipes and the collector will go down the front of the engine and around the steering rack. You will have about 10mm clearance in a couple of places and bugger all for sliding the heads up studs with the exhaust manifold fitted.

I've used stainless bolts for the exhaust manifold fitting last off about 10 years ago and just removed over this last 3 months for replacement steering rack fitment (needed all the space I could get, the rack boss carrying the in shaft sticks up a long way and needs manoeuvring around). The TRs have brass nuts on the exhaust manifold studs and numerous instances of the nut seizing and even snapping the manifold studs, I always use steel studs and nuts now with a smear of copperslip when fitting.

Micky

[Ian Durrant]

If you are buying tubeless stainless it's likely the downpipes and the collector will go down the front of the engine and around the steering rack. You will have about 10mm clearance in a couple of places and bugger all for sliding the heads up studs with the exhaust manifold fitted.

I've used stainless bolts for the exhaust manifold fitting last off about 10 years ago and just removed over this last 3 months for replacement steering rack fitment (needed all the space I could get, the rack boss carrying the in shaft sticks up a long way and needs manoeuvring around). The TRs have brass nuts on the exhaust manifold studs and numerous instances of the nut seizing and even snapping the manifold studs, I always use steel studs and nuts now with a smear of copperslip when fitting.

Micky

Ok well I did say I could be talking utter rubbish


However on the currently available tubulars only one exits forwards (nearside) and the other rearwards.

[DJT]

Fitted my phoenix ones recently with stainless bolts.

[tractorjames]

Thanks for the replies, I think might just bolt them on with stainless.

James

[tractorjames]

hi James ive got tubulars fitted with bolts st/st ones and have had them like this on my previous stag as well hgf failure twice with the old stag and they came off easy ive experienced no problems with this method .all my threads are helicoiled x2d as well this helps greatly. depending on the quality /grade of stainless used they may corrode over years because of ferrous content and lower chrome content I have welded a couple of sets for people in the past that perforated but it does not happen overnight . have you been playing with the dizzy yet ?are you going to be running a wideband o2 sensor as well this will help get you where you want to be
Steve

Dizzy hasn't arrived back yet, and I need to order the overdrive bits yet so I don't think the engine will be back in till mid-end of Feb. Can't wait!!!

James