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    Hand brake problem

    Hi members i have a hand brake problem,having renewed the rear hub bearings i decided i would also renew the brake shoes and cylinders,on completing
    the work i now find that my hand brake will not lock up the back brakes.The hand brake comes up 6 notches but still i can move the car i have checked
    that the adjuster is working and all the springs are in the right order.I was thinking of fitting the hand brake improvers from T,H,but only as a last resort.
    As any member come acroos this problem before.


    jim

    #2
    Hi Jim
    When you fitted up the rear shoes, did you disconnect the handbrake on the levers? You should leave them off and apply the foot brake a number of times ( make sure the drums are on ) then put the cables back on and adjust the handbrake. He shoes will take a while to be in so don't expect them to be perfect first time out. The improvers will increase handbrake travel.
    Dave

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Jim
      I had a similar problem to you, in as far as my hand break would hold on the flat but not on an incline, and I was about to buy some of Tony Hart lever extensions, but decided to take one final look at the rear shoes, on very close inspection and studying the workshop manual I found that my self-adjusters had been assemble the wrong way round, taking the shoes off and correctly assembling the self-adjusters I now have a perfect handbrake, it would appear that the handbrake was only working on one shoe each side.
      Ken
      DSCN8301 (1024x768).jpg

      Comment


        #4
        I also had the same problem with the handbrake not holding on hills etc. Found the adjuster in the drum fitted to the shoe on one side was the wrong way round, like Ken, refitted and handbrake perfect. As Dave said, disconnect the hand brake cables from the levers, pull them back and get someone to pump the foot brake; this will take up an play/adjustment automatically. Andrew

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks guys ill take your comment on board and do as you say by disconnecting the hand brake cable,

          Comment


            #6
            Very easy to get it wrong. Some time ago I posted pics of it wrongly fitted. I'm away from home only on phone right now so can't post pic but may be worth doing a search.

            Cheers

            julian

            Comment


              #7
              Jim

              Search for "Auto brake adjuster mechanism" and you"ll find the thread Julian is talking about. I was also told if you treat the larger part of the adjuster as a birds beak, it should be pecking the shoe and not the axle direction?

              Photos Julian posted in that old thread are probably more helpful.

              Ian

              Comment


                #8
                One other thing Jim
                Ensure the handbrake mechanism is located correctly in the self adjuster, it is possible to have it sitting on the adjuster, and not into the cutout. Jst give it a wiggle with the drum off, and you will know if it works properly when you refit the drum and push the brake pedal(handbrake disconnected) you will hear the adjuster make a clicking noise as it takes up the adjustment. This will only happen for the first few pedal pushes as when the adjustment is done it is held in that position untill the shoes wear and a further click will occur. You wont hear that one as you will be burbleing dowm the road with a smug look on your face !!!
                Dave

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just one more thing that can happen in case you cant solve your problem. Some months ago there was a very useful post which explained that some new brake shoes can foul the backplate on the pivoting end (opposite end to the slave cylinder) and that stops them sitting down in the correct position. This was a revelation to me because thats exactly what the cause of my weak brake problem was. The solution is to grind or file the shoes to clear the backplate.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have noticed its best to final adjust the handbrake whilst the car is on the ground as jacking up slackens the cable as the rear wheels drop. I adjust my rear manually by clicking the adjuster until a get a good feel removing the drum and using a long driver until I get very slight interference then back on the ground and final adjust the hand brake. They will then continue to self adjust. Doing it manually I know both are working and balanced.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Edd, that sounds interesting and helpful but-- sorry for my poor English--I really did not understand the procedure. Would you mind to go a little bit more into detail? Do you start with the rear of the car lifted and the drums off? And what does "a good feel" in this sense mean?

                      Many thanks.
                      Klaus

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hi Klaus,

                        Please don't ever apologise for your bad English. It's much better than most of us at German (and I studied it for 4 years).

                        Jeff.
                        I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Klaus Schlueter View Post
                          Edd, that sounds interesting and helpful but-- sorry for my poor English--I really did not understand the procedure. Would you mind to go a little bit more into detail? Do you start with the rear of the car lifted and the drums off? And what does "a good feel" in this sense mean?

                          Many thanks.
                          Klaus

                          Hi Klaus,

                          I think Edd is describing the way I always do it. Which is to adjust the shoes manually by advancing the ratchet with a screwdriver, all the time offering the drum up to make sure it will still fit. Obviously you need to ensure the Hand Brake lever on the back plate is fully returned all the time. When you get to the last adjustment if you allow the slightest bit of interference between shoe and drum you normally find that once fully home and screwed in place a tap with a hammer will centralize the shoes and the drum will spin freely. As Edd says you can then be sure the clearance between shoes and drum is the best it can be and then any slack can be taken out of the hand brake cable to give a good lever height in the car when applied.

                          Regards the "Feel" I think he is referring to what I explained about the slight interference between shoe and drum in the last part of the operation. i.e just biting the slightest little bit, but not so much that when the drum is fitted and the shoes centralized you can still feel it binding. If it is still binding a little you will need to back it off a little as when shoes and drum warm up and expand you will have a binding brake and the associated problems that go with it.

                          (Hope I didn't steal your thunder Edd)


                          Ian
                          Last edited by milothedog; 28 April 2015, 15:27.
                          Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks for the flowers Jeff.

                            Quite clear now Ian, many thanks, very helpful.

                            Klaus

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Lost me there Klaus, why the angry face?

                              Jeff.
                              I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

                              Comment

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