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Stag in bits again! rear end this time!
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markOriginally posted by Mark Shutt View Post
ive got to take my rear suspension out as well, to fit a new boot floor,i was going to take it apart,because i thought it mite be to heavy for me to take out on my own,did you have any trouble taking the whole thing out and were you on your own
thanks dave
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2 hours, not sure if this is good or bad but things went smoothly I guess, exhaust practically fell off much to my relief as I expected a battle there! yes did it on my own with a regular trolly jack, it would have been easier with a larger jack (I usually borrow my friends) but I got by..Originally posted by Nigel W View PostMark, roughly how long did it take you to remove?
the only thing I would do different is take the front bush bolts out altogether as they got n the way as I juggled the lot on the way down!
the whole lot is stripped down and pressure washed now (horrible job!). drill with wire brush and grinder with flappy disc is next to remove crusty bits! I could just send them off for powder coating but that would be expensive and just take too long and I want this back on the road asap
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that must take some serious overheating with the mig in one place to distort that steel! I would stitch it on on bit at a time and move about a bit to keep heat down..Originally posted by V Mad View PostI had a reinforced nose on a previous stag, and the welding had distorted the casing. I only found that out after first replacing the bearing twice!
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I borrowed a square trolley that Bazstag had made when I did mine, it was basically a thick square of wood on castors, put the jack on that and then used the trolley rather than the jack to pull the suspension out, jack doesn't need to go as high so less chance of the suspension falling off the jack.
Unfortunately I decided to follow Bazstags lead and strip the underseal off the underneath and paint it body colour at the same time, ba##ard of a job.sigpic
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Dave, I did mine on my own - the only difficulty being moving a trolley jack on gravel so, when I refitted it I did it without the arms attached and fitted those later (see pic below) - Oh and the diff input shaft had almost welded itself to the end of the prop
Mark, do consider powder coating it. I did and it is brilliant. Looks totally like brand new and only cost me about £50/60 and done in two days (didn't include the diff itself, obviously !).
Cheers
Julian
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DSCN2744.jpg
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my floors, arches and boot floor are stonechip/painted, the tunnel and diff area are just oil/underseal so just going to Shultz that area. it's not like you're ever going to see that area unless you're an MOT manOriginally posted by Dave M View PostUnfortunately I decided to follow Bazstags lead and strip the underseal off the underneath and paint it body colour at the same time, ba##ard of a job.
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if that was the case I'd have them done.. the place I go to did my rocker covers and carb elbows for £100 and took 3 weeks! not so much bothered about cost but it's the waiting that frustrates me.. I would need the brake back plates doing too if I was going down that route.. the more prep work they do the more expensive it gets (masking etc..)Originally posted by jleyton View PostMark, do consider powder coating it. I did and it is brilliant. Looks totally like brand new and only cost me about £50/60 and done in two days (didn't include the diff itself, obviously !).
Cheers
Julian
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