Help needed ASAP!!!

[alan_thomas]

Just putting my newly veneered dash back in and I realise that I have forgotton the layout of the 'minor' gauges. I thought I had seen a photo of the dash in the Rimmers Catalogue but now I come to look the picture is a LHD.

So what I need to know is the where the Temp, Fuel and volts gauges go. The choices are -

Left of Speedo top, Left of Speedo bottom and 'under clock'. I expect if I have to I can work it out by the wiring but it sure would be easier if one of you popped out to the Stag and had a look.

Thanks in advance Alan

PS Mk11 RHD

[Stagdad]

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Hi Alan

Temp bottom left

Volts top left

Clock top right

Fuel bottom right

Well that's how my 74 rhd is set out

Steve

[alan_thomas]

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Stagdad you're a hero! I thought I would have to leave the job to tomorrow.

Now walk away from that computer and enjoy the sunshine!

[Stagdad]

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Good luck with the dash

Just waiting for a call from the wife to pick her up from Reading in the "you know what"

Steve

[alan_thomas]

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Its back in and looks great! Being a cheapskate I reveneered it my self in 'Oak Burl' verneer total cost less than £20. However it takes a lot of time and now I see why it costs so much to get them done professionally.

Remember the 'Royals' are playing at home today so the traffic around town will be the usual chaos.

- Alan

[John]

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Where did you get all the bits for £20 ? I'm interested in doing the same!

[alan_thomas]

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John wrote:

Where did you get all the bits for £20 ? I'm interested in doing the same!

I got the oak Burl verneer off Ebay for £8 + £5 post http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=220091817003

You need to get a lot more veneer than the area you intend to do this gives you a choice to pick the nicest grain and avoid the bad bits.

The polyuthrene varnish (I used a spray) was £5.20 and I had the PVA wood glue.

My old varnish was badly flaking and had yellowed so that the wood was obscured. I tried various methods of removing the old varnish, chipping it off was only good where it was loose. I ended up using a gas torch, just wave it over the surface then scrape off immediately. It is easy to scorch the veneer but I got away with a couple of light scorches which didn't matter as I knew I was going to reveneer.

I am an accomplished DIY person and it was one of the hardest things I have ever done. If you have the funds get it done professionally and you are guarenteed a good result if you don't prepare yourself for a lot of anguish!

- Alan

[John]

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Thanks for the link. I know it will ba a challenge, but I still think I might give it a go!

[seaside bill]

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John

I've done this job as well, albeit on a different car.The main tip I'd pass on from my experience is to make sure the veneer is thoroughly glued to the fascia board. In my case it obviously wasn't andblistered (air pockets where not glued) as soon as the lacquer was applied. I experimented with marine quality varnish and lacquer - the latter gives a more professional looking finish. I used Rustin's Plastic Coating which is a 2 part cold-cure lacquer http://www.rustins.co.uk/product.htm?chgprod=PCGL. I note that LD Parts also recommend this product.

I got my veneer from here: http://www.valeveneers.co.uk/dv.html Their stock includesamerican black walnut which is quitesimilar to the original veneer in case you're into originality. Personally I'm not a great fan of burr walnut, reminds me of my grandparents furniture!

[John]

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Thanks for that, I never realised veneer was quite that inexpensive . It might take me a while to get around to it, but I'm definitely going give it a try.