Clutch Release Bearing Carrier

[Richard G]

Does anybody know with a new carrier (and the old one) what the dot punched in the rim means?

Soon as I know I am fitting it!

[tractorjames]

Are you seeing the little hole which should have a roll pin through it to stop it spinning on the nose piece?

James

[Richard G]

I will have another look, I have a picture but cant post it

Are you seeing the little hole which should have a roll pin through it to stop it spinning on the nose piece?

James

[Richard G]

You are right, missed it when ordering!

I will have another look, I have a picture but cant post it

[tjk]

Hi

Just to add , ensure the roll pin is used, When replacing my clutch there was no pin which let the carrier spin around aganist the release fork grinding away metal on both bits.

Tim

[richardthestag]

beware! when you tap the roll pin into the new carrier it is soft and deforms. when the pin is in make sure that the release arm moves freely all the way around the slot on that carrier. If not I used a spanner to lever the slot slightly. Assemble with a smear of copper grease in the slot and inside the carrier where it sits on the gearbox input shaft. Loctite and/or wire on the bolt that secures the fork to the cross shaft will save you pulling the box again. Also check the cross shaft bushes are good.

You might also want to spend some time ensuring that the gearbox splines are 100% crud free for nice smooth clutch operation.

Lastly, sorry about teaching granny to suck eggs. you need to make sure that the clutch cover bolts are NOT bottoming out in the flywheel. Newer covers are thinner, I had to cut two threads off each bolt to stop them bottoming. lose cover = clutch judder = not falling for the Stags charms

One more thing, when re-fitting the box to the engine locate the dowel-bolts or larger bolts and locate those two first. don't tighten until all are in place.

Have fun