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The trick with soldering these is to try and get the cable core to 'splay' out before adding the solder. This way it is less likely to pull out of the solder. Cleaning the cable before soldering can also be a bit of a pain.
Sorry Russ, I can't help with a supplier. I'm still using the 1973 original!
Cheers,
Mike.
Mine since 1987. Finished a 20+ year rebuild in 2012. One of many Triumphs and a 1949 LandRover!
After much shuddering at the memory of the last 2 I bought, I went down the repair route....
I was able to reuse the busted Bowden as only a small bit was lost. Splayed, bound to stub and adjacent cable with a couple of strands of fine copper and fluxed.
A quick blast from my cooks blowtorch and some solder and job done.
Can't get his sodding radio to go back in at the moment though....all the wires get in the way...
I bought a choke cable set from Robsport, works fine & didnt look cheap
I had to re-route it though as my radio stuck out as well.
Went to the left instead of behind the radio.
I bought a choke cable set from Robsport, works fine & didnt look cheap
I had to re-route it though as my radio stuck out as well.
Went to the left instead of behind the radio.
Off topic but I love your avatar. Were you the ticket man at Fulham railway station?
Just broke my choke cables right at the very end just where they enter the solid tube. As I have not lost much length I am hoping I can remove what is remaining in the tube and re-insert the cable. I have read the above and other posts but I cannot figure out how to remove the broken cable from the tube and then re-insert. I have tried heat but it had no effect. What am missing here?? Thanks Craig
Okay I think I have got it sorted. I drilled out the old remain wire. Inserted a short length of fine gauge SS yacht rigging wire. Crimped the end of the tube with my yacht swaging tool. I now have the wire firmly in the tube with about 1/2" sticking out. I have then swaged the two choke cables and single wire together. Craig
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