Choke cable getting stuck

[Paul Kelley]

I have a growing problem with a sticking knob!! Ah, now I have your attention, it's getting increasingly hard to pull the choke out. It gets really stuck, then with strong pulling suddenly frees and then runs in and out fine...until the next time. As a new cable set is in the £50-60 region (e.g. Tony Hart) I'm wondering if there are any known issues/tips to overcome the problem without a replacement cost? I have oiled where possible and it makes little difference. I have noticed that the cable angle to the left side carb (left from behind the wheel) is quite acute, but it seems positioned into its clip correctly and so appears correct. The other carb cable seems to run ok.
Any suggestions much appreciated, as ever.
Paul K

[Apart from the choke issue, the old yellow beast is running really well this summer. Biggest difference has been new distributor cap, rotor arm and leads, sourced from Peter at LD Parts. I go to LD as first port of call].

[nib]

I take it Paul you are aware of putting your foot on the throttle when pulling the choke to ease things?
Also check the cables through the radio aperture haven't become twisted + you can slightly lube the cam on the left carb where choke lever pulls + you could last resort try taking the cam bolt in slightly to give less friction on the cable when pulled.
plenty of innuendo in there for the site pervs to mull over,lol

[DJT]

Paul,

As above. The LH choke cable operates the fast idle cam. If this is dry, and the accelerator pedal not depressed as the choke is pulled, then you will get the symptoms to write about.

An alternative problem may be the RH enrichment valve sticking. This is the valve that the choke cable is connected to. I found that mine was sticking. I removed the enrichment valve (two countersunk screws with star washers) and stripped it down. Polishing the spindle with fine wet 'n dry paper and generally cleaning it up made all the difference. Be careful to note how it is assembled as it is possible to put the disc back 180 degrees out.

[Another Peter]

I take it Paul you are aware of putting your foot on the throttle when pulling the choke to ease things?
lol

Well, I never knew that!

[nib]

Well, I never knew that!

Peter I think DJT alerted me to this some time ago and is a must for the repro choke cables that are only available now.

[Paul Kelley]

Many thanks nib and DJT for the tip and further suggestions. Well, I have to say I didn't know about the throttle pedal point and, at least on the sample of one test so far, it makes quite a difference! So, thanks for that. As it is still a bit stickier than it should be I will also follow up on your other things to check as well.
Again, many thanks.
Paul

[LAMBRETTLAD]

I've got a frozen cable ,so only one choke (RHS) is working ,I've just ordered a new choke cable ,so I have the job of fitting a new one soon ,I wonder what surprises await ?

I'll let you know

[Paul Kelley]

Good luck with that Alex! Let us know how it goes. Who are you getting the cable from?
Paul (PK)

[LAMBRETTLAD]

Hi I got the choke cable from rimmers ,tho rob sport also have them in stock, I think there are alternatives makes , as rimmers do a cheaper one as well,I have no details.

The car starts with just the one choke ,but the fast idle is zero ,so nifty foot work required for the first quarter mile

[stag36587]

Well, I never knew that!

I didn't know that either. Does that mean when the choke is out should some throttle also be applied when actually starting the car?

[DJT]

I didn't know that either. Does that mean when the choke is out should some throttle also be applied when actually starting the car?

No. That's what the fast idle cam on the LH carb does.

[Paul Kelley]

I have now used the throttle down/pull out choke a few times - works every time! Doh, fancy not knowing that but interesting that others didn't either. As Dave says above, once the choke is out DON'T use any throttle to fire it up.
PK

[Carboy0]

Just searched for advice on this as I have the same problem. That's the sticking choke when starting sorted.

However, I also have a problem after pushing the choke in, the tickover shoots up to 2000 plus and I have to blip the throttle to unstick it.

Any advice welcome.

[jbuckl]

So long as you're not just referring to the fast idle cam releasing:-

The choke cable ends are capable of causing the engine speed hang up if they get caught. They may or may not release with a throttle blip.
Identify by looking for the offending cable end having got caught, switching off engine when 'hung up.'
Bend the cable end away from whatever it was catching on, or consider shortening it.

Just searched for advice on this as I have the same problem. That's the sticking choke when starting sorted.

However, I also have a problem after pushing the choke in, the tickover shoots up to 2000 plus and I have to blip the throttle to unstick it.

Any advice welcome.

[Carboy0]

Thanks for the advice jbukl , busy tomorrow, but will have a look on Sunday.

I'm not sure whether it's the fast idle cam not releasing or the cable ends, it's only ever happened when I driving.

I'll co-opt swmbo on Sunday.